For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

[cletus]

Does it run the way it is? You could try it and see

Most likely it will need to pass a 3 stop brake test, which is 3 stops from 100- 0kph, under 4.4 seconds each stop, in a total of 2 minutes max.

 

I have not done a 620 with drums so I dunno how good they are. But commercials in general have brakes a bit bigger than passenger cars of the same era so it might be ok with good quality shoes and everything in good shape  

[RUNAMUCK]

Just now, JustHarry said:

@cletus @KKtrips

I want to put a datsun 620 through cert for a ld20t . It has kingpin and trunnion front suspension and drum brakes all round at the moment.  I wi be running fairly small tyres likely 195/60/15 so nothing huge to load brakes to much. And I guess prob a 4.1 diff.  Bear in mind the ld20t is not exactly a powerhouse 

In your experience will the drum brakes after being rebuilt, new shoes, cylinders and whatnot, pass the brake testing? Or am I pushing shit uphill even trying to get them through. 

Or do I need to go to ball joints and disk brakes?

Please and thankyou

*4.6 or 4.8:1

[JustHarry]

Just now, cletus said:

Does it run the way it is? You could try it and see

Has no brakes at the moment they need a rebuild as everything is pretty seized.

I'm sorta hoping that since thyre not a super heavy ute and the ld20t although turbo will still be pretty slow, it might be ok. 

[JustHarry]

Just now, RUNAMUCK said:

*4.6 or 4.8:1

That's gonna get changed for a 4.1 pretty quick haha

[MaxPower]

Hi can I change the 14” rims to 16” rims Without any worries on a 95 Toyota dyna? It’s got a hubo and cof etc. only gets 90kmph before the engine noise gets to me. Cheers and sorry for new car question.

[Beaver]

The hubo will be/should be calibrated/correct for a given tyre size so unless you magically end up with the same rolling diameter I suspect you'll be doing something naughty

[Bling]

From VIRM 

Quote

tyres have an outer circumference that is no more than 5% greater than OE

Look into different diff heads? Would at least keep the hub odo accurate, speedo / odo would be out though. Unless you get that calibrated too.

/earmuffs when on the open road, sorted.

[escortwags]

@cletus Couple of Q's for you when you have time  

Do you see any issues with the modifications done on the link below "in principle" to allow the front of a 1952 Belair to be airbagged?
https://www.lowrider.com/how-to-tech/chassis-suspension/0603lrm-cheap-air-bag-suspension/

Do you see any issues with using the below kit to allow the rear of a 1952 Belair to be airbagged?
https://www.jimenezbroscustoms.net/product-page/1949-1954-chevy-car-2-link

If my questions are to broad just let me know

[cletus]

Front= theres a couple of things that would need to be done differently for cert, needs shocks, bottom arm welding would need tig& ndt 

Rear looks mostly ok but I wouldn't recommend a 2 link. With a 2 link, to have any side to side articulation something has to flex. Americans love doing 2 links in various things because they are easy, but virtually no OE manufacturers do them, the only one that i have come across that is common is 60s chev trucks but they have soft rubber bushes and the bars come in quite close together at the chassis end and the links can flex a bit cause they are a I beam shape. Some 4wd vehicles have a similar system (nissan patrol or safari, landcruisers etc ) but they all have big rubber bushes at the diff end for articulation 

 

Have a look at info sheet 05-2011 on the lvvta website, that has a lot of info about it 

[MightyJoe]

Hi Cletus, i'm looking at buying a car that was chopped into a ute years ago. Been off the rd yrs, rego isn't on carjam.  What's the first step to looking at getting it back on the rd? Do i need to ring a certifier in chch and get him to have a look at it? Old mate reckons it was on the rd, but how legal it was I dunno.  Also I've had a look on the lvvta website but haven't bought any of the download info yet, I was hoping to get a second opinion before I start spending too much and starting work on something which might always be a paddock car. 

Edit,  pics added. It was a 4dr car which obviously has the rear doors still in it, just welded up, I have no idea about the general state of it yet but obviously I know it's a heap, but If theres a chance it could go back on the rd I'm more inclined to give it a go. I'd be updating the suspension and motor etc, no probs but chassis mods are all new to me.

 

[kyteler]

My Prince isn't on carjam but it was still on the NZTA books. If you've got any papers or it still has its plates you might be able to contact them to find out. 

However you'll definitely need to cert it and I would be dubious about whether it would meet current criteria without serious bank. 

[MightyJoe]

Cheers, it's a big project I know, but the thing that I'm not sure about is the roof rewelded onto the middle of the rear doors, and the fact the doors are still there, just welded up. I dont mind a bit of bodgery, but I need legal bodgery Lol. Also mostly at this stage Im just not sure of the first step.
edit, in the secomd picture also you can see the remains of the C pillars half way down the deck. 

[Bling]

Does the bottom half of the car still exist or has it become one with the earth? That is a monumental project right there.

[MightyJoe]

the floor inside exists but i dont know if it will support any weight, sills dont exist, not sure about the rear deck area as theres rotten ply over it, i'm not that hopefull.  stupid big project i agree, but it could be great, put about 15 grand into it, and overnight parts from japan....  or it could just be a parts car. or give it a wash, coat of matt black and build a burnout car

[ThePog]

Drop it onto an mx5 chassis?

[MightyJoe]

That would be a good idea. very good idea. its beyond my capabilities though, at this point in time anyway. i need to watch more youtube to attempt that. but i dunno, first i need to win the auction, then i need to assess it, then i need to make a plan, then i need to rob a bank.. if the roof chop is certable. 

[cletus]

Ute conversions can be certified but you would want to allow for at least adding some strength into it 

First thing would be to get it, clean it out and see what it's like 

 

Youre a brave man haha 

[MightyJoe]

I'm an idiot more like. But thats good news! the B pillar looks intact where they've chopped it so theres that going for it, i can work the rest out. If it can be certfied thats good enough at this point.   thanks for the info.   i'd best try and buy it now then. 

[escortwags]

@cletus - Thanks for that, looks like Ill go down the path of a much more "known" 4 link setup like the kit below then for the rear
https://www.ridetech.com/product/weld-in-air4link-parallel/

[shizzl]

If you do an engine conversion on something that would almost double the og power, do you need to upgrade brakes?