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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

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15 minutes ago, KKtrips said:

For WoF? Only essential vehicles can get WoF's during lockdown. Trucks/taxis/delivery vehicles etc.

Also the word is that police will be lenient on cars with WoF's that have expired during the lockdown, providing the driver passes the attitude test and they aren't just out for a jaunt to the beach to cough on someone elses kids.

It's been loosened up a bit:

 

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*waits for barry to call asking if we can cert his 56 f100 he imported from america so he can take it to the supermarket *

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  • Haha 6

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1 hour ago, cletus said:

*waits for barry to call asking if we can cert his 56 f100 he imported from america so he can take it to the supermarket *

You know it's gonna happen.

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3 hours ago, KKtrips said:

Get used to this
 

 

yeah the queue was double that when i went to my local yesterday 4pm - i wonder if it'll be better during work hours though.

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@cletus what's the go regarding engine conversion mounts. And gearbox bell housing adapters?

Will be putting a rover v8 into my ms65 and will be using the bw35 lehousing with an aluminum adapter plate to the Toyota w50 box 

And engine mounts will use the rover rubber mounts and just make some thing on the crossmember out of 3mm? To fit the engine?

I'll be keeping the stock gearbox mount and crossmember so I dont have to customize the driveshaft and also keep the shifter in the correct position.

Are the engine mounts something that I can just make to suit? Or do they need to be "designed"

The lvvta website just says they "must to be fit for purpose " ?

Could you please clarify this for me

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Engine mounts are one of those things that there are so many different combinations of shapes and sizes that its impossible to have a set rule on how they must be done

But as a very general rule, 3mm steel with gussets. You can come up with a design yourself no problem, post up or send me a pic if you want some input on if they are ok or not

One thing to remember when designing mounts, is if the rubber breaks, the engine should not be able to rock over and jam the steering.  So for example if you have limited exhaust manifold to steering shaft clearance, you may be better to use a locking style rubber mount instead of a round cotton reel type one 

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1 hour ago, cletus said:

Engine mounts are one of those things that there are so many different combinations of shapes and sizes that its impossible to have a set rule on how they must be done

But as a very general rule, 3mm steel with gussets. You can come up with a design yourself no problem, post up or send me a pic if you want some input on if they are ok or not

One thing to remember when designing mounts, is if the rubber breaks, the engine should not be able to rock over and jam the steering.  So for example if you have limited exhaust manifold to steering shaft clearance, you may be better to use a locking style rubber mount instead of a round cotton reel type one 

Awsome.

Prob cant really "draw" them up die to lack of drawing abilities.  But if I were to just make something tacked into place for mockup purposes I guess that'll be ok? That way should I need to change anything it's not a big deal?

Seeing as the steering box virtually it right on the firewall on the ms65 crown there isn't really anything to jam on . But I guess the centre link will be the other issue.

 

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2 hours ago, JustHarry said:

 But if I were to just make something tacked into place for mockup purposes I guess that'll be ok?

 

Yep that's fine

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Cletus, quick question on suspension strut tower spacers..

Have been told that they will have to be certified to get a WOF,  bit left field but im looking at buying a kit for my Forester. They bolt to the top of the struts and space them down and the back comes with a lower control arm drop kit too. Can this sort of kit be certified and would it need to be crack tested first? Its gonna come from Subie Lift Oz if it makes it easuier. 2.5" Front and 3" Rear.

Thanks

 

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Can be certified, I've done a couple, both needed work around the sway bars to stop them getting tangled up in other things 

Crack testing was not required on the ones I've seen 

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What are the legalities behind changing my headlights, grille and corner lights from facelift:

IMG-20200330-WA0009.thumb.jpg.5cf05fbe758be09562b5f9178eae15d8.jpg

to pre facelift:

Screenshot_20200330-103719_Instagram.jpg.327f554347a646e417ff46aed6759763.jpg

They don't bolt up to factory holes so had made some brackets out of 3mm aluminum flat bar 

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@cletus

Probably worth asking the question whilst I'm thinking about my plans. 

Dedicated Motorsport Vehicle with Authority Card.

Looking at modifying the original Engine Mounts to effectively make them solid. Using a steel plate welded in to join the outer and inner sections. 

Is there any reason this won't be acceptable when I get the LVV Cert updated?

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On 06/04/2020 at 07:18, dspec_tt131 said:

What are the legalities behind changing my headlights, grille and corner lights from facelift:

IMG-20200330-WA0009.thumb.jpg.5cf05fbe758be09562b5f9178eae15d8.jpg

to pre facelift:

Screenshot_20200330-103719_Instagram.jpg.327f554347a646e417ff46aed6759763.jpg

They don't bolt up to factory holes so had made some brackets out of 3mm aluminum flat bar 

No problem as long as your headlights can be adjusted correctly and they are mounted securely 

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Just now, japawagons said:

@cletus

Probably worth asking the question whilst I'm thinking about my plans. 

Dedicated Motorsport Vehicle with Authority Card.

Looking at modifying the original Engine Mounts to effectively make them solid. Using a steel plate welded in to join the outer and inner sections. 

Is there any reason this won't be acceptable when I get the LVV Cert updated?

Yep no problem for cert as long as all the mounts are solid 

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I found these gems in a pile of parts, are covered spotlights ok for the road? Obviously the vehicle wont be driven at night. What are the odds of them working I wonder

lucas.jpg

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Dunno if this is the right place to ask but here we go

Got this old crown almost finished

Jap import well need complying shortly

100% stock, Whats the legalities/requirements for the seatbelts?

Planning on fitting the originals, have  multiple sets and in decent condition for front and rear. Similar to falcon or holden design lap belts of the same era.

Has suspect looking design where you can unclip the front belts and tuck the shoulder part of the strap up onto the hoodlining and it becomes a lap  belt only. I guess for aesthics being a coupe. All belts have toyota markings, date of manufacture and what ever standards they meet on there little tags sewn too them.

Are these acceptable or well they need updating/oviously some sort of modern inertia belts going to be safer but meh

 

20200301_202109.jpg

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Just now, Ja1lb8 said:

Dunno if this is the right place to ask but here we go

Got this old crown almost finished

Jap import well need complying shortly

100% stock, Whats the legalities/requirements for the seatbelts?

Planning on fitting the originals, have  multiple sets and in decent condition for front and rear. Similar to falcon or holden design lap belts of the same era.

Has suspect looking design where you can unclip the front belts and tuck the shoulder part of the strap up onto the hoodlining and it becomes a lap  belt only. I guess for aesthics being a coupe. All belts have toyota markings, date of manufacture and what ever standards they meet on there little tags sewn too them.

Are these acceptable or well they need updating/oviously some sort of modern inertia belts going to be safer but meh

 

 

Seatbelt rules depend on year manufacture and date of first rego in NZ.

See here, table 7-5-3

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-interior/seatbelts-and-seatbelt-anchorages

Assuming this is pre-79 then you only need static lap/diagonal in front, nothing in the back. If you keep the OE belts and they are good condition you should be fine.

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