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hood

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Everything posted by hood

  1. I ended up getting the belt rewebbed through Seatbelts4u in Auckland, that remedied the problem. Couriered it up on Saturday, back on my door step on Tuesday!
  2. Thanks Clint, that makes sense. Yeah I'll go with a wrecker if it's a last resort
  3. I pulled the unit out of the truck, tried cleaning to no avail. I thought flag it, I'll head to my local decent parts supplier for an aftermarket seat belt. The factory Hilux unit has a gas canister on it and the parts shop suggested I try my local commercial wrecker instead. Can an aftermarket non canister type be fitted as intended?
  4. "The front TinTricksMfg bracketry kits for '85-'00 2wd Hilux hubs consist of... ▪︎2x billet 6061-t6 anodized alloy hats ▪︎2x billet p20 zinc plated steel brackets ▪︎complete zinc plated fastener pack to suit -The billet 6061-t6 hats are a hubcentric, bolt on adaptor that mount to the back side of hub the same as the oem rotor would. The rotor is also located centrally to the hat by the lip machined in on back side. 8x 5/16" fasteners attach the rotor to the hat. The hats are anodized for corrosion protection. -The billet p20 steel caliper brackets adapt the aftermarket caliper to the oem spindle caliper mounts. Ease of fitment & fastener/tool access has been kept in mind with bracket design. The brackets are zinc plated for corrosion protection. -Fasteners used are suited to a high-heat environment. Grade 12.9 cap screws zinc plated and post heat-treated. Hardened flat washers with Nordlock & Schnorr locking washers plus zinc plated cone-lock nuts. These kits are built to comply with New Zealands LVV Braking & Attachment Systems Certification standards and discussions with our local certifier were had throughout the design process. They are 100% bolt on with the oem hubs, and are made to work with oem or drop-spindles. (Minor variations may apply between spindles/castings) >>Note: kits suit 17" wheels upwards. I will confirm caliper clearance via private message. ALL PRICING IS IN NEW ZEALAND DOLLARS AND INCLUDES GST. OPTION 1 >>Hat, Bracket & fastener kit only (both sides) $1300.00 with natural/clear anodized hats $1335.00 with black/colour anodized hats (Minimum run of 10 hats needed for bulk anodizing prices otherwise a one-off charge applies) OPTION 2: >>Complete kit with Rotors, Calipers, Brackets & fasteners. (excludes brake pads)(both sides) $3085.00 with natural/clear anodized hats $3120.00 with black/colour anodized hats (Minimum run of 10 hats needed for bulk anodizing prices otherwise a one-off charge applies) -Rotors are Wilwood 13.06"x1.374" (331x34mm) Gt48 curved vane slotted & vented. P/n: 160-3584c (Right) & 160-3585c (Left) -Calipers are Wilwood 4-piston Superlite forged type. 1.75"x1.10". P/n: 120-11135 (Note: extras you will need to buy are brake pads with a compound to suit your requirement, plus brake hoses/fittings.) * Copied over from Matt's business page
  5. I've gone ahead with a brake upgrade. Matt has developed an in house front and rear Willwood kit....
  6. Roger that, thanks for the replies
  7. Hi Squires, I've got a seat belt the fails to retract in my Hilux which is a WOF fail. Can they be repaired, or is it better to replace with an aftermarket universal unit? Thanks
  8. Fuck yeah Clint, so cool! Nice move on the revin with the og black plates. Stoked to see you and the other half out there and enjoying it. On ya
  9. Nothing to report from the van, but a quick mod on the tow wagon. I had these LED work lights hooked up (thanks Lance @ Autowire) to assist when you're fucking around with the hitch at camp grounds at night, and generally speaking.... They've also doubled as an anti tailgate warning to the unassuming as I've discovered haha. I've had them hooked up to a toggle switch, didn't plan this lol Other wise, I've been using the van over the summer break which has been enjoyably. It's nice to hook up, hit the road and park up where ever.
  10. Words of a real car enthusiast! Thanks!
  11. What's the inside of this looking like Clint, habitable?
  12. Here's the process of forming the front firewall..... All the correct tooling has been used, such as the planishing hammer, to spot welding it in. You could call it a c10 style firewall, it's all going to be exposed with no wheel tubs. Check out the 'frenched' in wiper motor, I've never seen this done before and I was blown away when Matt surprised me with this! Wayyy cool. Also with the body drop, the steering has to be reconfigured, this is now ticked off the list
  13. Yip, you're onto it. The car was $1500 off marketplace, it was parted out and I made my money back, kept the motor essentials and ended up with a little extra coin in the kitty
  14. I had regulator issues on a newish alternator on my hilux recently. Alternator was just over a year old, and I only managed about 10tho Kms on it, and unfortunately out of warranty. I took it to Lance @ Autowire who pulled it apart and the regulator failed on it. Turns out the alternator itself was ok but the cheap Chinese regulator let go. He sourced and fitted quality genuine denso unit and it was good to go
  15. Thanks Matt, I wouldn't have known otherwise looking at the final result! Also to add to this the head board of the wellside will be non existent to showcase the firewall
  16. Here's some further photos to update this thread. Cando tube upper and lower control arms. These are produced in the US and were sourced over in Aus. A mate was kind enough to bring them over on a flight Also a tilton pedal box was sourced. I intend to have the reservoirs fitted in the guts of a later model Hilux dash (98-04) So one of those was sourced including the dash crossmember
  17. Love it! Cool to see some updates. It's an event everytime I take ours out. People often approach for questions, comments and photos. Get it back up to scratch and useable and you'll be in for some guaranteed fun get aways!
  18. The body drop equates to a 3-1/8" (80mm) drop. Relatively pretty big on a Toyota and cut into the rocker panel Here's the sill panel folded up and construction of the floor structure
  19. Upon a previous visit to see Matt I was pleasantly surprised to see my factory floor in the scrap pile, as you'll note the tunnel was removed, but it just wasn't going to work, so the decision was made to go with a full scratch built floor, front and rear firewalls. It didn't exactly pan out to this extent, but I have the confidence in Matt to build my dream, and he knew I would appreciate his vision so I'm glad he made the call. I'm now committed to go all out on this thing and to see it through
  20. I went through a faze of buying and selling wellsides, all of the Toyota variant, mainly the later 98-04 shape, from S/C, D/C and X/C. I'd part them out, either sell off the tuff deck, keep the tailgates (I collect those for future dream shed art) cut tail light buckets out and then occasionally keep the good ones. Here's one of those said good ones, and the final wellside for RDGR8R. I picked this up through a work colleague, he said he was keeping it for a spare, I told him it was off to a good home, and later @RXFORD was kind enough to cut it up, I.e get surgical and removed the bedsides. I'm going back to a Simi factory look, I like to refer this to a Japanese minitruck style, heavily modified with subtle factory tones. I'll get Matt to build this tray around the factory sides, incorporate my old combo skin, fab some nice swaged inner lining, keep the orginal plastic stone guards, and potentially the OG fuel door?
  21. Z'd front clip update, On a Hilux, unlike a Mazda b series when they are laid out they dont lay a full chassis rail, the back half does and then they sit on the engine cross member. So to get around this the front section of the rails are lifted, and the frame horns on the front are lowered to accommodate. Im not sure how much of a raise Matt went with on my chassis, but here you can see what's involved with the process, and then final fish plates welded in too. Also I actually had some frame damage that was pulled, either from a previous collision while it was on the chassis table.
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