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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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seatbelts.

my '85 RX-7 (Jap import) came with no belts in the back, common for most cars of that era. When it first went through compliance in 2009 a "2 seater VIN" or something was attached to the driver's door shut because at the time the inspector planned to put it through as a pure 2 seater, we made a brace to hold the back seat permanently down.

however i went back for a recheck this year after fixing a bunch of other things and the inspectors are now saying I have to put four new belts into it (including the rears). I asked if the brace was no longer allowed and if they could just take the back seats out and forego putting belts in, and they said I need to get a LVV cert first. Apparently the bunch of law changes that came into effect on 1 April include new rules for seatbelts.

would you be able to clarify this rule and/or criteria involved? I would like to avoid having to put belts in the back if I can help it, and if I need a LVV cert then I'm happy to obtain one.

The first thing I'm doing is pulling the back seat out anyway and converting to USDM 2-seater interior :rolleyes:

Clint, do you know Dave Clark (ex toyota?)

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i also have a query. i have read the verm vern whatever it is . in regaurds to : ... double swaybars . according to it it is ok to have two swaybars as long and you dont chaing mounts and it does not fould on anything . no welding or redrilling is done etc . so my swaybar is sweet?.

i have also fitted a much larger diff (r160 up to r200) . the rules says its ok as long as it uses the same mounting points and nothing is modified. is this also correct?

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New question?

Got a 1955 Hunter and still has the origonal plates and Rego on hold.

The car drives but the body is a bit sad, I'm looking at keeping all gear origonal and just doing body mods.

Does the removel of front guards and dropping the roof line require a cert when undertaking this type of work?

It was a factory option to by a rolling powered chassie from the factory with no body in the first place. People could use there own body.

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I too have a question...

Say I had my vehicle lowered. I take it in to get certed and it passes. A measurement is recorded from centre of hub to top of guard and stamped on the plate.

My question is, if I had (for arguments sake) 18" wheels on at the time of cert (which also gets stamped on the plate) and the vehicle was above 100mm, what happens if I decide to go to 13" wheels that brings the car lower then 100mm?

Basically a re-cert for the wheels?

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I too have a question...

Say I had my vehicle lowered. I take it in to get certed and it passes. A measurement is recorded from centre of hub to top of guard and stamped on the plate.

My question is, if I had (for arguments sake) 18" wheels on at the time of cert (which also gets stamped on the plate) and the vehicle was above 100mm, what happens if I decide to go to 13" wheels that brings the car lower then 100mm?

Basically a re-cert for the wheels?

yeah - cert plate has wheel size stamped on it too, but not tyre size. I would think within reason you would get away with running different size wheels e.g 17x8 vs. 18x8 or 14x8 vs. 15x8 of similar offset isn't going to make much odds if the tires are similar size.

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I too have a question...

Say I had my vehicle lowered. I take it in to get certed and it passes. A measurement is recorded from centre of hub to top of guard and stamped on the plate.

My question is, if I had (for arguments sake) 18" wheels on at the time of cert (which also gets stamped on the plate) and the vehicle was above 100mm, what happens if I decide to go to 13" wheels that brings the car lower then 100mm?

Basically a re-cert for the wheels?

Technically speaking you need to re-cert the vehicle for a change in wheel sizes. Certifier needs to assess that change in wheel size will not have detrimental effect on handling, braking or clearance to body or suspension components. Some certifiers will do these checks for a reduced charge for wheel change only, plus the cost of a Cert Plate Reprint.

It is also possible to have a vehicle certified for more than one wheel size, road wheels & drag wheels for example. That would need discussing with your certifier of choice

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I too have a question...

Say I had my vehicle lowered. I take it in to get certed and it passes. A measurement is recorded from centre of hub to top of guard and stamped on the plate.

My question is, if I had (for arguments sake) 18" wheels on at the time of cert (which also gets stamped on the plate) and the vehicle was above 100mm, what happens if I decide to go to 13" wheels that brings the car lower then 100mm?

Basically a re-cert for the wheels?

It is also possible to have a vehicle certified for more than one wheel size, road wheels & drag wheels for example. That would need discussing with your certifier of choice

Wow that would be handy....I think.

What do they look for if a vehicle is lower then 100mm? Other then the obvious steering, suspension stuff.

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I have a bit of a collection of questions, may not be your area if expertise (and i do plan on talking to a local cert guy prior to kicking any of the big stuff off)

I plan to lift my Brumby 3" is there any specific information/standards as to what is acceptable in terms of material and construction, and size of lift blocks?

So far it is my intention to lift the body off the front crossmember using 75x50 RHS with 5mm wall, will reuse the OE studs and nuts, and new equivalant size/grade bolts and nuts to attach the crossmember to the lift block.

The gearbox mounts to a 2nd crossmember which is also the radius rod mount, this crossmember mounts to the body at 3 points each side, all on differing levels, I plan to space this only 2" either with 3 seperate solid steel blocks using longer bolts of equivalant grade to OE, or by making a box section that matches the contour of the floor and crossmember with crush tubes at the bolt points, this would obviously involve a lot more fabrication, but to my mind it will potentially deal with shear loading better.

The rear suspension is a torsion bar setup, that mounts to the body at 2 points either side, these i will treat the same as the gearbox crossmember mounts, either seperate solid blocks and longer bolts, or with a boxed sub assembly.

I'm also swapping the factory 4 speed for a 5 speed (that bolts in) the 5 speed comes with a 2 peice driveshaft, which as i understand will need a hoop within 150mm of the gearbox UJ and the centre bearing UJ.

The rest of the build is fairly straightforward, engine swap with adaptor plate and redrilled flywheel, taller tyres.

Does any of this ring any alarm bells? There are obviously braking repercussions to fitting taller tyres, metallic pads and good new parts should provide sufficient stopping power.

Cheers, Dan

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hMM crossmember lifts.... dunno there is a number for normal bodylifts cant remember if its 50mm or 75mm max certifiable. but crossmember lift may be a little different. I would really want to talk to the certifier first as it is going to depend on his view of it with it not being something commonly done here. if you can show him examples of others in australia or something like it may help.

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I'm doing is pulling the back seat out anyway and converting to USDM 2-seater interior :rolleyes:

had a llok in the wof bible, its in the table of modifications that dont require certification= removing seats and belts. Unless for some strange reason the entry virm is different to in-service virm then you should be able to do that.

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What are the legalities regarding deleting power steering? Can I just remove all the hoses and pump etc, and run a loop of hose betwen the two ports on the power rack?

need to fit a non power steer equivalent or have rack modified by reputable place to be non power steer- reason being there is a little `torsion bar' inside a power rack that operates the power assist valve- removing the pump ect causes stress on the torsion bar and eventually it can break

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I have a question - when do flares/spoilers etc need certing?

For example, hypothetically if I was to do this to my car:

??

flares like that on thier own wouldnt need a cert, but the mods needed to fill them out and get it to look right probably would, ie wheel spacers, proper suspension, cut out original guards etc. and then the flares would be on the cert anyway

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had a llok in the wof bible, its in the table of modifications that dont require certification= removing seats and belts. Unless for some strange reason the entry virm is different to in-service virm then you should be able to do that.

Hmm interesting, cheers for that Clint. Looks like I'll just need to take the car (in its current state, with no rear belts) to someone like the guy in Mt. Wellington you recommended and go from there.

ABC were trying to make me pay $700 for new belts all round, I said I wasn't prepared to pay anything until they were actually fitted, and they still aren't.

thing is, VTNZ's "list of defects" has indicated this:

- "Fit rear seatbelts (3 point) will need LVV if no OE exchange points"

which means it DOES need a cert? Bloody hell it's all too fucking confusing for me :oops:

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