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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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but sounds like a case of the certifier just being lazy.. :lol::wink:

nail on the head there :lol:

we have to inspect ALL modifications, plus "safety items"- basically a wof check. If the car has had a wof check in the past 14 days then we dont have to check those things- the wof inspector takes the responsibility.

i still check the car as normal anyway even if there is a recent wof check....who knows who looked at it, and quite often there is shit wrong like knackered ball joints or perished brake hoses which are better to know about before doing the road test........

i wouldnt rely on the wof guy to tell me whats been modified

it can make it easier if the owner writes down all the mods they have done so we dont have to go hunting for whats been changed- nobody knows whats been modified better than the person who did it

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So I wasnt going to ask... but

I have new firewall/tunnel welded up. If I've POR15'd it inside, and sprayed body deadener on the underside, is my cert man going to make me strip the paint at the welds? Cos there is a lot of welding and I hate to think how hard my POR15 is going to be to get off nicely. Ditto for deadener, its so tacky.

Tunnel is very straight forward, nothing complex about it, just a box.

Also how do people view rivets? I have a plate riveted on, it just covers the old handbrake hole. Looks kinda chunky but is hardly structural.

Cheers fellas (cletus?)

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this is where i personally would have had a chat to the certifier about it , then if he wants he can come round / you take it to him to have a look and make sure shit is kosha. nothing worse then doing that kind of stuf and finding out he dont like it .

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Hey who is good to use for Cert in wellington? I only know of that belt up place Lower hutt, and have spoken to the guy before and seems nice enough, but just wondered if anyone had a preferred cert man?

Need to ask some questions, possibly need to get him round etc

Cheers

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I have rung up a certifier and been told that you can go down to half the original travel w/o a cert. And with a cert it is up to the individual certifier as to what he deems safe. As for droop I was told that as long as the wheel can be removed to change a flat tyre then its legit.

*waits for Clint to tell me I'm wrong*

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I have rung up a certifier and been told that you can go down to half the original travel w/o a cert. And with a cert it is up to the individual certifier as to what he deems safe. As for droop I was told that as long as the wheel can be removed to change a flat tyre then its legit.

*waits for Clint to tell me I'm wrong*

As with above, the certifier I have spoken to looks for 30mm of travel before hiting the bumpstops at which it must also comply with the ground clearance rule where if a diagonal line is drawn from front wheel rim (not including tyre) to opposing rear wheel, there must still be ground clearance throughout the length of this line - it's in the LVVC manual and probably explained better.

No specifics were given on droop, but I'm sure Clint can ellaborate more on this. Both zep and I had our cars setup with no droop (preloaded springs) at various stages of their development and they handle and ride shockingly, as you can probably imagine :lol:

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hobby car manual says 40mm minimum as a rough guide. really depends on the suspension/how big and soft the bumpstops are/what car/how many passengers it carries/what it drives like etc. a vehicle must still be safe loaded- eg a 5 seater must be able to carry 5 X 80kg persons and still have travel. a lot of smaller cars dont meet this requirement because the springs are too girly. eg a 323 wagon with reset original leaves with 40mm bumpstop clearance, usually is on the bumpstops with 2 passengers in it

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