igor Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 One live plate, one wof, several trailers? Can't use them all at the same time anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted February 28 Share Posted February 28 They want plates to be mounted right way up so the smart cameras can read them. A lot of trailers have them sideways because there’s no where else to put them. 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiRge Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 Is there anyone in Wellington who's familiar with the cert process for engine/subframe swap (a bit more than a bolt-in affair) who can come over and point out anything I might need to do before I pay for a certifier to come. Currently the engine etc is mocked up and the idea is to get certifier in to tell me how they want it put back together, but I dont want them to turn up and point out all these dumb things I haven't thought about yet. Figured you lot are smarter and more handsome than me which might help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 Couple of questions that I need clearing up on. I have the lvvta manual and with regards to driveshafts I cant find any mention of halfshafts on IRS setups. I plan on joining 2/3rds Subaru leone shaft to 1/3 Hillman imp shaft (both same diameter) I'd like to do the job myself because I feel confident enough as an engineer. I am happy to have them crack tested if that's needed. I will be visiting my hotrod builder mate in motueka (who's well known with most certifiers) and running a couple of ideas past him. Does this all seem fine? Another thing I have spotted in the manual is this... 'Where a battery, and fuel system components, such as a fuel tank or fuel pump, are located within the same compartment in a low volume vehicle, the battery and the fuel system components must be separated from each other by the enclosure of one or both within a secured fuel-resistant non-conductive container' But at the start of the chapter on fuel systems it states this... 'Note that where a production vehicle is fitted with its original fuel tank or other fuel system components in their original locations, the requirements in this chapter do not apply' I have my battery mounted very securely within an alloy box above the tank, the box is bolted to the firewall. The leads are secured within flexible conduit that's attached to the firewall before running into the interior. I'll be using the original tank is but fitting the small nissan micra fuel injection pump within, through the top where I'll be making a sealed bolt down lid just large enough to get the pump in. (cant quite squeeze it through the hole the fuel level sender fits through) There's no room for a surge tank, nor do I want to go down the route of a noisy external pump again. Does this seem all ok ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 On 04/03/2024 at 20:54, yoeddynz said: Couple of questions that I need clearing up on. I have the lvvta manual and with regards to driveshafts I cant find any mention of halfshafts on IRS setups. I plan on joining 2/3rds Subaru leone shaft to 1/3 Hillman imp shaft (both same diameter) I'd like to do the job myself because I feel confident enough as an engineer. I am happy to have them crack tested if that's needed. I will be visiting my hotrod builder mate in motueka (who's well known with most certifiers) and running a couple of ideas past him. Does this all seem fine? Another thing I have spotted in the manual is this... 'Where a battery, and fuel system components, such as a fuel tank or fuel pump, are located within the same compartment in a low volume vehicle, the battery and the fuel system components must be separated from each other by the enclosure of one or both within a secured fuel-resistant non-conductive container' But at the start of the chapter on fuel systems it states this... 'Note that where a production vehicle is fitted with its original fuel tank or other fuel system components in their original locations, the requirements in this chapter do not apply' I have my battery mounted very securely within an alloy box above the tank, the box is bolted to the firewall. The leads are secured within flexible conduit that's attached to the firewall before running into the interior. I'll be using the original tank is but fitting the small nissan micra fuel injection pump within, through the top where I'll be making a sealed bolt down lid just large enough to get the pump in. (cant quite squeeze it through the hole the fuel level sender fits through) There's no room for a surge tank, nor do I want to go down the route of a noisy external pump again. Does this seem all ok ? My engineer (who might be your one too if initials are JC) said there were no real guidelines on it and I offered to have them fully welded by an engineering shop which he knows and was happy with that. So might be worth tacking it and having an engineer shop weld it up and provide a receipt stating exactly what they did. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 im keen to see what you do here re half shafts, its the bane of fwd engine/gearbox swaps unless you have a lego parts bin. I seem to recall something about a splice to be welded but was ages ago i looked and outside my skill level/found some lego instead. You can also employ this when you put the sr20ve 20v with sr16ve gearbox in your k11 if nissan lego doesnt work 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3spct Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 When i fitted a p12 primera 6 speed to a earlier car, the best way was to cut the cups off the inner cv's can weld the cups on from the car it was going into (p10). Then you have a large diameter weld, rather than small, so much much stronger. Also looks stock. I got ADL in auckland to do them, cost $600 but was well worth it. 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VintageSpecial Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 On 04/03/2024 at 20:54, yoeddynz said: 'Note that where a production vehicle is fitted with its original fuel tank or other fuel system components in their original locations, the requirements in this chapter do not apply' Won't that come down to if it's a modified production vehicle or a scratch built? If modified but you haven't changed the fuel tank or battery from production then it's fine. As soon as you start modifying anything then all the rules in that section of the manual seem to apply. That's how it seems to work to me but I read it through a vintage car lens. A lot of vintage cars have their fuel tanks scuttle mounted right next to a battery in the engine bay. Mine has both in the tail. The manual talks a lot about compartments which doesn't really apply to some vintage cars. Mine is basically a metal tube on a chassis. For a scratch built historic replica the rules get a bit odd since if you had to follow them all you end up something with is neither historic, nor a replica! This is recognised, and called out in some of the Info sheets (#01-2008 mainly). So I try to keep everything as factory original as possible. Simon 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 Axle shortening or joining, if it's just an axle, should be fine if it's done well and with a suitable weld process etc, take notes of what you do, what filler rods etc The exception to this is jag rear ends, this is because the driveshaft is the top suspension arm. These need a more specialized process because a failure would likely be way more badderer Battery- if your fuel system is modified then the CCM requirements apply, so battery has to be isolated from fuel in a non conductive box. I have had a customer with a stainless battery box who didn't want to change it, line the inside of the box with rubber sheet so it was no longer conductive between the battery and everything else 3 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 On 08/03/2024 at 18:02, R3spct said: When i fitted a p12 primera 6 speed to a earlier car, the best way was to cut the cups off the inner cv's can weld the cups on from the car it was going into (p10). Then you have a large diameter weld, rather than small, so much much stronger. Also looks stock. I got ADL in auckland to do them, cost $600 but was well worth it. because i'd love to put a p12 sr20ve and box into a p10 (one day) did this change lengths the shafts or just for compatibility at either end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 Wof question, is this just talking about needing a new inner tie rod, which is nice and easy or some more balls aching like a complete rack swap required? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 It looks like they are asking you to check if the play is within manufacturer specs Ie they don't want to make a decision themselves 2 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted March 14 Share Posted March 14 I get that every time with the hunter. If they don’t know or can’t find the manufacturers specs for play etc, then they request that you find this info and return. i took a workshop manual with me last time to show steering box play etc. theyr just covering their ass 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 Regards the driveshafts. I chatted to my hotrod friend, ran the two ideas I had come up with and he suggested an even neater, stronger, failsafe way to do it. But I had to get another pair of scooby shafts because I'd already chopped the ones I had down in length I won't go into details here because I'll spend enough time doing that in the build thread but I'm super happy with the results. As for fuel tank, yeah since I've added a bolt down hatch to place the pump inside is now modified so I'll look for a suitable plastic box* for the battery (it's quite small though) I can't line my alloy box because I made it to suit the battery and it's bloody snug in there. I could line the outside but it would end up messy I bet. *off Alex goes - rummaging through the Sistema range of kitchenware/fuel tank/battery boxes at the warehouse. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shrike Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 Could you just powdercoat the battery box or paint it etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 On 14/03/2024 at 15:21, cletus said: It looks like they are asking you to check if the play is within manufacturer specs Ie they don't want to make a decision themselves Gah I don't want to diagnose something I just want to fit new parts and get on with my life. 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ul9601 Posted March 16 Share Posted March 16 1 hour ago, mjrstar said: Gah I don't want to diagnose something I just want to fit new parts and get on with my life. how often does this happen. if i was a layman who don't know nothing about cars (pretty much true), what am i meant to do? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted March 16 Share Posted March 16 After some poking and prodding I decided it was play in the inner end of the tie rod, not a lot, but some... I do feel like a bit of a scumbag for reusing the steering rack boot and outer tie rod end, but they passed my inspection, it did at least get a new lock tab. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bearded Baldy Posted March 16 Share Posted March 16 Sometimes it can also be they are not sure if the play is minor in the rack bush (less dangerhazard) or in the rack end/inner tie rod end (more likely to fail sooner. I have come across a few xtrails where this is the case. Easiest way solo to check is to slip the rack boot along the tie rod and off the rack, then have a look at the joint. Slide boot back over with a new tie and job done. Easiest way with help is to turn the wheels to extend the side of the rack with play, and pull down on the rack inside the boot while someone else checks to see if the play is still there. If it is, inner rack end. If play is gone, rack inner bush. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bearded Baldy Posted March 16 Share Posted March 16 Tldr. They are arse covering and i assume vtnz so won't look any further if you had asked them too. Not a fan of testing stations.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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