flyingbrick Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Thanks mate. Turns out the hobby car manual is actually pretty good (lol)...I wish I'd bought it earlier (being able to spend 10$ per relevant chapter makes it much easier!!!) I was even more impressed to see things like suggested tube and heim joint sizes... Really really important for someone like myself who genuinely has no clue and tends to oversize everything. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igor Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Nothing wrong with a bit of good healthy overkill. 1+1=4 but we call it 10 to be safe. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 7 minutes ago, igor said: Nothing wrong with a bit of good healthy overkill. 1+1=4 but we call it 10 to be safe. lighten it till it breaks, then make it just strong enough 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igor Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 I work with structural engineers not mechanical. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 With front raidous rods with welded in ends do they need to be tested? If you relocate a master cylinder and make a custom brake peddle, it needs to be TAC approved? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasinthemirage Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 @flyingbrick I bought a couple of chapters last night too, quite impressed with it really. As I need to lengthen the pushrod it looks like my only option aside from squeezing an OE booster back in (which will prevent the rocker cover being removed/ may not even actually fit ) is to have an engineer turn up a 1 piece pushrod. Provided the pushrod is one piece, constructed from suitable material and its diameter is appropriate to it's length I think this will be acceptable? First time I've dealt with this sort of thing so its all a bit confusing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 I haven't read the braking section so can't comment except to say that you will need to ensure that the pushrod can actually be removed from your master cylinder/booster/whatever. I cannot exactly remember but I'm sure on mine it's all crimped in there and the only way to remove it is complete destruction Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasinthemirage Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Fingers crossed it can be removed, I don't know exactly what the booster is out of so don't fancy sourcing another one. Will remove it and go from there I suppose... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 The cat in my daily has gone bung (rattling around) can I remove it completely? Car is an 02 VW Golf first reg in NZ in 2007. It already has a spacer on the O2 sensor after the cat as it had started to throw cat efficiency codes funnily enough. Going by an AA post, it should be ok as only vehicles manufactured after 1990 and first reg in NZ after 1 May 2010 are required to have them. Anyone else confirm this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Should be fine to ditch it completely, other option though is to gut it and put it back in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Cool. Yeah, thought about gutting it, probably would if I was doing it myself but just gonna get a shop to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 33 minutes ago, kicker said: Cool. Yeah, thought about gutting it, probably would if I was doing it myself but just gonna get a shop to do it. Are cats still worth a bit at the metal recyclers because of the platinum in them....? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 1 hour ago, kicker said: The cat in my daily has gone bung (rattling around) can I remove it completely? Car is an 02 VW Golf first reg in NZ in 2007. It already has a spacer on the O2 sensor after the cat as it had started to throw cat efficiency codes funnily enough. Going by an AA post, it should be ok as only vehicles manufactured after 1990 and first reg in NZ after 1 May 2010 are required to have them. Anyone else confirm this? Yep that's fine. Probably better to get a bit of pipe put in, I knocked the guts out of one once and it was a cunt of a job and it made a mess and there's probably stuff you shouldn't breathe in. I spoke to a cat scrap bloke the other day and I think he pays 60 $ for a cat. Might pay for the job even? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 7 hours ago, SOHC said: With front raidous rods with welded in ends do they need to be tested? If you relocate a master cylinder and make a custom brake peddle, it needs to be TAC approved? Like factory ford radius rods? Or custom made ones? Custom pedal doesn't need tac approval, only if it's got an offset crank deal incorporated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 2 hours ago, cletus said: Like factory ford radius rods? Or custom made ones? Custom pedal doesn't need tac approval, only if it's got an offset crank deal incorporated Factory ford ones with custom made bungs tig welded in. I have the underfloor duel master cylinder setup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Vapour Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 Gents Headlights. I know I can't retrofit hid in to a regular semi sealed unit. But what if the housings were made for HID lights? Will they need to have marks on the lens to be legal? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 "It is permitted to replace a complete halogen headlamp unit with a complete HID headlamp unit." https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/lighting/headlamps see note 8 I would say they need to easily recognised as being HID lamp units. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Vapour Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 55 minutes ago, AllTorque said: "It is permitted to replace a complete halogen headlamp unit with a complete HID headlamp unit." https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/lighting/headlamps see note 8 I would say they need to easily recognised as being HID lamp units. Many thanks. That is what I was hoping Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted April 11, 2017 Share Posted April 11, 2017 ute has no gear indicator for the auto. Do I need one? I see the lvvta says a modified car with auto must have something to indicate what gear you are in, I don't see any mention of it under wof requirements. Does it get ignored because it was modified in 1991? its probably never had one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 11, 2017 Share Posted April 11, 2017 Won't need one if it was modified prior to the rules. If it was being certed today then it would, there has been more emphasis on it in the past couple of years due to a wof inspector being killed by a car that had no inhibitor switch or gear indicator, someone started it in gear and it squashed him. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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