Adoom Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 Yeah over time the vibrations and stuff can cause it to fatigue. I'd do as Brick said and box it. Yeh, I've just been looking at photos of escort crossmembers and they are all boxed in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidewaysickness Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 Here at oldschool we are all about that box. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shakotom Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 Let's say I was gonna cut the roof off my beetle to turn it into a convertible.... Will I need a cert? Can I just chop it myself/would it need an engineers report on affecting structural rigidity/reinforcing? Bugs whole body and unbolt from the pan and most of the structure/strength of them is in the center tunnel/backbone thing..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 Absolutely needs cert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 That. Also dont do it. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave123456789 Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 probably a silly question but here goes. do I need to hide my welded in patches prior to wof? I have about a dozen patches they have just been ground back and primered. I want to get a wof very shortly and am not keen on trying to bog anything yet. pretty sure ill let the pros do the bog job as it will just look like im hiding rust if I do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 If they're not in any structural places, you should be fine. If they are you might want to tidy them up a little. If they look legit though then I doubt they'll be too worried, if they look a bit dodgey then they may ask you for some manner of panelbeaters doo-dad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave123456789 Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 its just doors at the moment and an inner wheel arch. nothing that's holding the car together. I think they look pretty legit in my opinion for welds done by my brother 12 bourbons deep. my theory is that you can see that there is steel there so cant be all that bad. much excite for potential wof! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 Let's say I was gonna cut the roof off my beetle to turn it into a convertible.... Will I need a cert? Can I just chop it myself/would it need an engineers report on affecting structural rigidity/reinforcing? Bugs whole body and unbolt from the pan and most of the structure/strength of them is in the center tunnel/backbone thing..... This is relevant to my interests. When is a body panel structural and when is it not? Specifically I'm talking about my hq ute. Full chassis vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 There's pics on the nzta / lvv sites outlining it all 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 I'm not gonna look for them though, you can do that. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 I'm not gonna look for them though, you can do that. IIRC there's not very much that's not structural these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 I have had a good look over the lvvta website and I cannot find anything about actual sheetmetal removal or modification (or rust repairs or whatever) Getting frustrated because it must be there somewhere (everything else is!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyfive Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 This kinda thing? http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-structure/structure-incl2.-frontal-impact Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostchips Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 Which are better? the spacers with the studs put in them or the spacers that slide over longer studs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 This kinda thing? http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-structure/structure-incl2.-frontal-impact Thanks. The panel I'd like to replace is under the rear window so really shouldn't be part of any front or rear impact systems. I do however believe it may affect the cabs strength in a rollover; I do not wish the replacement piece to be considered structural BUT I could weld in a x of flatbar to remedy this. Basically, I'd like to remove the ribbed portion and instead bond in a folded and bead rolled piece which sits flush with the rear of the cab and provides me with an internally accessible storage shelf. Above and below this ribbed panel is a boxed member. These wouldn't be touched. Hope that made sense 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 Which are better? the spacers with the studs put in them or the spacers that slide over longer studs?All depends on thickness. Obviously the ones with studs can only be so thin as they need to house the studs and wheel nuts, however they do mean you don't need to fit extra long studs to your hubs.Slip on spacers need to be fastened to either the wheel or the hub though. I don't know why. I guess so if you take the wheel off it can't accidentally go missing. All depends on thickness really. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 Progress. Pajero lower control arm bushes. The question I have is, should I gusset the mount on the cross member? It seems pretty solid already. Like this, or something? as mentioned, needs to be boxed. only doing one side, or putting the gusset in the middle would be ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 Let's say I was gonna cut the roof off my beetle to turn it into a convertible.... Will I need a cert? Can I just chop it myself/would it need an engineers report on affecting structural rigidity/reinforcing? Bugs whole body and unbolt from the pan and most of the structure/strength of them is in the center tunnel/backbone thing..... Needs a cert, can be done, needs to be as strong as it was factory We can do a torsional twist test on it to prove it is no more wobbly than a stock one. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 probably a silly question but here goes. do I need to hide my welded in patches prior to wof? I have about a dozen patches they have just been ground back and primered. I want to get a wof very shortly and am not keen on trying to bog anything yet. pretty sure ill let the pros do the bog job as it will just look like im hiding rust if I do it. i would leave them un covered wof fail sheets usually specify repairs must be not covered with filler or underseal at inspection if a car has been failed for rust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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