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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/30/20 in all areas

  1. today went better. i got the little bit of surface rust of the inside of the scuttle panel and chucked some brunnox on it. poured some brunnox inside the fuel filler flap and then chucked some primer on things. yesterday i primed the car again so only the drivers side needs another coat, the rest of the car is ready for wet sanding. yay, wet sanding. 2020-12-30_02-33-07 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-12-30_02-32-59 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-12-30_02-32-45 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-12-30_02-32-52 by sheepers, on Flickr before priming, 2020-12-30_02-33-43 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-12-30_02-33-36 by sheepers, on Flickr after priming, 2020-12-30_02-33-29 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-12-30_02-33-22 by sheepers, on Flickr
    14 points
  2. We (well, mostly @Guypie.. I kind of just handed him beers and water blasted the old fence palings) made a chair to take advantage of our view
    12 points
  3. Did some dodgy sparky work and got the retarder working, as well as doing a 4th gear pull to see how everything is looking. So far so good.
    10 points
  4. For some reason I was avoiding buying new wheel nuts for the front as I thought they would be expensive but it was $12 for a set of 10, and now I can ditch the 3 different shapes and sizes of nuts I had on before, got the new tires put on, finding tubes was a little tricky and I had to drive a lot to get them, tire shops look at me funny when I want cross ply tires fitted.
    8 points
  5. Making some more progress... Welded up these sill/b-pillar/dogleg sections as one Started hanging all of the doors with new hinge pins Need to throw some diesel in it so I can move it to strip the rest of the firewall and get the rest of the colour going.
    7 points
  6. Bushes replaced and the Valiant drives nicely again. One of my boys finished year 8 schooling, they have a formal and parents etc are invited to drop their kids off at in front of the school hall pre formal. The valiant beached quite loudly as I was turning onto the field which my son thought was fantastic. Good boy! He was very keen on some school field paddock work. I exercised the utmost restraint and no circles were done. Here's a pic of some previous grass silliness. I put the Superlites on for the school run. Then decided I didn't like them and took them off the next day. I'd quite like a set of these modernized Cheviot Quattro's but the budget won't stretch that far at the moment. anyway that's enough sharnes. I have done some productive stuff too. I got my big fuel tank re tested, blasted and painted. It's slightly larger in diameter and considerably longer than the old one. My calculations suggest it will hold about 20 Liters more fuel than previous which equates to about %30 more. Luckily I managed to fit it into the old tank straps which was a bonus and saved much fucking about. Old. New. I Need to sort out some new ducting as the tank has is designed for 60mm as opposed to 2 inch as before and I'll be ready to run. This tank has a little magnetic gauge sender unit that is miles different resistances to what the factory sender had. It looks fairly simple and I'd like to see about getting it changed so I can use my factory gauge. Has any one in ChCh delt with E Parrot and Sons since it has changed hands? Are Robinson instruments still around? Suggestions please.
    7 points
  7. Rounded the cones by hand, had some round pipe as a guide. Found there final spot and temporarily drilled into place to try with the seat. Made some hinges out of 5mm angle line, which will later be trimmed up, driled for counter sunk screws and zinc plated. Primed everything and welded into place. I've maxed out the adjustments to have the seat level with the floor with folded flat. The floor section will be color matched the van, and the upright will be painted black to break it up. Plug welded in place. Will be primed and painted orange. This the last mounting point to be made. It holds the upright in place when in the seating position and should lock in it so in an event of an emergency stop, it shouldn't fold forward. Looks like a big gap but this is the normal and there is no room for adjustment when folded flat. Thinking some post which would encase a locking mechanism like the below would be the go. I like the idea of pulling the seat up and clicking it into place, and having a release lever when needing to fold it flat. Any other ways of doing this? Needs to lock it in place, and support the back rest.
    6 points
  8. Upper and lower racks sitting in place. Then set it up for it's first burn off to kill off any nasties from the paint and stripper. I added a few more similar size chunks of Manuka and got it cranking. So far it has been sitting at 500f for the last 2 and a half hours with no extra fuel. Seems to be going well enough for something that owes me about $130 and about 10hours. Yeah a Weber GA is only $150 but this is far more rewarding. I might give it another burn off tomorrow morning then I'll be seasoning it, throwing some paint on the outside then throwing in a rolled beef roast. Keep. As to see how it turns out. Will get a picture of the rotisserie tomorrow. Chur
    6 points
  9. A few months back I bought the 4 items in this link to make it all work https://yourdyno.com/shop/ - I had to wait a couple of weeks for it but it was perfect timing as they had just released their own eddy current power supply. After checking out his youtube and forums it seemed like a good option for a reasonable price. I then bolted some tie down points to the concrete, hooked the speed sensor up to the YourDyno controller and connected it to the laptop. I set it up for inertia mode with a moment of inertia number based on some weight calculations of the roller (educated guess for now). Strapped the trusty old NS250R to the roller and just eased into to things to get an idea of how it was all going. I popped it in 3rd and did a run right out to 10,000 rpm or so. This was a pretty epic moment for me honestly. Everything felt smooth and nothing looked out of place, so the next day I mucked about shimming bearings and coupling the retarder to the roller. Still in inertia mode, I strapped the paddock basher MX5 to the roller and did a test run in 3rd. Once again everything looked pretty good at this stage so I am very happy. Here's a video.
    6 points
  10. Spent way too long cutting and buffing the entire outside but it was worth it. Super smooth and straight now, just needs a polish. Since then I've been working on fitting the rear seat. Van's never came factory with rear seats but it was very common to cut out the front section of the rear floor and have a rear seat made and fitted. Most seats fitted were home made out of ply wood and were very roughly mounted in, this one was no except. Escort estates had seats were fitted from factory and had a metal floor backing so when folded down and not in use, it looked like it was just an extension of the floor. I have been looking for one of these for years and was hoping to have one before I painted it, as I would have to weld in mounting points. Didnt end up happening and found this one afterwards. Untwisted it and it will need full upholstery at a later date but it fits (Temporarily fixed). Started making mountings for this, the first being the towers at the front of the lower half of the seat. Have made these so I could use the original alloy hinges. Have welded a plate into the bottom and tapped some 8mm threads. Started working on the rear upright half of the seat. The starting point of mounting the seat is based around making the back part completely level when folded down. Some temporary brackets were made to find its final position. After the front towers were made and welded in, I started making the mountings where the upright section would swivel down flat. I made these cups, which will be welded in to close the gaps between the wheel tub and seat frame, using the correct fine threaded seat belt bolts and fixings. Once these are welded in there final spot, I can start working on the last mounting points which sit on top of th wheel tub and hold the upright section in place when in the correct seating position. Again, from factory these were pretty poorly thought about. I have a few ideas of how to improve this with an automatic locking mechanism.
    5 points
  11. Thread dredge from page 6 haha. Progress has been very slow on this. Lack of room is just a killer. Tonight I pulled the 2l out. One step closer to pulling the cab off the c notch chassis . At least with the motor and box out it will be a little lighter to push in and out of the garage. That's all the progress for now. So here's a boring pic for a boring build
    4 points
  12. After actualy finding the idle screw (on the back and underneath the TB, and a H2 Allen bolt????? Turns out it never even was touching the throttle. So I adjusted this up. I guess the cable was doing the throttle stopping and I upset it when I removed the kick down cable. Found my timing light is broken, but as it still had a bit of a stumble, advanced it a couple taps and it's pretty acceptable now. Will check what it really it soon. So I guess that's all it really needed.
    4 points
  13. And some photos to stick on the fridge
    4 points
  14. Took the kids to the caroline bay festival today. A solid 4 boring hours of flat out straight road. Well on the way there it was flat out, the way back was full of bloody caravans Done about 1100 or 1200 miles so far. Hasn't missed a beat. Just rolled over 105,000. Still got the sticker on the windscreen saying next service due @105 or june 2010. So hasn't done a lot of work the last 10 yrs Edit, soz upside down pic. Dunno why. Easier to turn ya phone around.
    4 points
  15. Successful day. Thanks to @BlownCorona and @Raizer for some advice after first attempt was a fail. Shame the lady couldn't read my scrawl and incorrectly typed 2 50 instead of Z 50, but I'll do the paperwork to get that changed.
    3 points
  16. Wiring is for dicks!! I wish I just kept my "Bluetooth" Wiring as it looked much better without real Wiring... Anyway, reality dictates I will actually need to do it, despite how much I want to avoid it. Take 1: Relays in the battery box. Seemed like a good idea, and was reasonably tidy. However I was unable to run the wires internally up the backbone of the bike as I envisioned, as the loom has too many wires to all fit in there with other stuff going on like fuel tank threaded inserts and the way the saddle tube connects and blocks the spines opening...arghhh...grrrr!!! So, take 2: Try shifting everything under the transmission. Sweet, rear wires = very tidy, I can easily hide those. Front wires can be run alongside the clutch cable (heat shrink to keep it all coved of course). I can even use OEM fittings for connecting everything up, which was always my plan if possible. Yip, standing back it looks fine. 100% better than my first attempt, which was just fucking ugly. This is much better, no ugliness along the backbone distracting from the clean lines. The naked spine and tank are this bikes main feature and cable ties and a honking big wiring loom there would have looked shit!! Calling it a win.
    3 points
  17. Nope spoke too soon, same issue still. Seems a bit better but still not quite right. Need to see if timing is even in the right area though before poking around anything else
    3 points
  18. Stripped the boxing and bucketed all of the water out of the pit. My parents then popped around with their tractor and we managed to get all the heavy bits in the hole.
    3 points
  19. Action shots! Well some photos at least. I'm shit behind a camera, and forget to take them. Currently in chch on a family holiday of the sth island. Been to Nelson for a bit, over to Takaka, down to Westport then Hokitika and across to chch. Went up to the Denniston Mine. Was quiet so snuck through the barrier for some photos. Did some other stuff too. Discovered the rubber boot thing on the wiper on my side leaks and drips on my foot
    3 points
  20. So yeah, as seen above, took it back to the water yesterday and it does run a lot better when its not breathing its own fart cloud. Picture of failed engine mount and V band that needed toightening. IMG_20201228_170634 by John Bell, on Flickr I'm not completely happy with its performance though now its making full more power, it doesn't 'bite' the water like I would expect, if you feed it more power than it can shift water, it nangs out and feels slower than if you were to nurse it up to speed. You can see/hear this in one of the vids. It handles a quite loosely, but I don't have much reference to compare it to, aside from the donor ski which carved corners like a water-skiing cut cat, comparatively. If you do manoeuvres that are too aggressive or any spins it comes off the plane pretty easily and doesn't pop out of the water like the motor seems capable. So next step is to look at the spare jetunit, if its any better pop it on for testing, and I feel I'll probably wind up giving one of the pumps a birthday. Cute IMG_20201228_182945 by John Bell, on Flickr
    2 points
  21. Another vantatstic day hah, got a lot done. Had to move this guy a bit as my intake just missed it but when the throttle cable bracket went on it reminded me that space is not my friend here. No worries though as the radiator hose diddnt like the angle it was on either, so moving the water neck made better space for both.
    2 points
  22. Thanks man. I think it's the biggest decision when working on a car. I did um and ah for ages and had a few spray outs. A little concerned there may be a bit too much orange with the lack of trim but we'll see when it rolls out. The back seat has no seat belts (pre 77) and no side windows so it's not a great place to be, but atleast the option to have a 3rd or 4th person is a bonus. Think I'll stick with the original brown vinyl color to keep it period.
    2 points
  23. Finally arrived about a week later than i wanted. Look really bloody nice anodized finish looks mint!
    2 points
  24. Super easy to set up and use so far. I've had a quick play with the retarder and that all seems to be working good, but I need to tweak the PID settings before I can do the proper MOI calibration. Software itself is pretty simple to use also, and seems to have all the features I'd want. Never used a dyno before this, so can't really compare to anything else. Can't do too much more fiddling until I can get my sparky to come wire up some extraction fans etc after the holidays. It gets pretty noxious in there lol.
    2 points
  25. Got the mould box done. Just need to sort the partition mounting.
    2 points
  26. Managed to get some work done on the car over the last couple of days, got the wire wheels out in the boot and surrounding area. Boot floor wasn’t looking too bad (not 100% done brushing back in the photo): Slapped some primer on it (there’s one little rust hole near the drain opening in the spare wheel tray, the cap that sat in there crumbled in my hand lol): There is a bit of rust around where the seal/boot lip runs along near the bumper in the middle, so to get a closer look I removed the rear bumper (came off surprisingly easily, after some of the horror stories I have seen/read about). Was a bit sad to see this rust here, next to the forward bumper support (similar on the other side too), so that’ll need to be sorted: Does anyone know how to get these brackets off? I can see some screws and nuts, but they look fairly rusted on. Likewise, any tips on how to remove the trim here on the C pillar junction, as to finish the survey of the rust in this area: It is a bit disheartening to find more rust, but not surprising, as that’s the nature of the beast when it comes to classic cars. The good news is that there are a few areas which will be hidden once done, so perfect for me to cut my welding/repair teeth on, onwards and upwards.
    2 points
  27. While doing the clutch line this big c*nt crawled on by, right next to my head while on my back under the front of the van, scared the shit out of me... so I put him in the tree and called it a day hah .
    2 points
  28. Wife wanted a long dinning table bought a 2.4M slab of cherrry? Wood measure twice and it actually test fitted the first time! turns out it’s a bit long once we put it in the lounge..... so have cut shorter belt sanding for hours sucks, maybe 1/3 of the way there now (should of hired a floor sander) recycled some legs from scrap at work
    2 points
  29. 1 point
  30. A bit of height difference here in the vans, as shown by the radiator.which used to sit in hereso made some brackets that had just enough space behind the crossmember and suspension beam, as well as intercooler mounts... That's some more stuff out the way
    1 point
  31. Awesome. What a cool project, and it looks like quite a pro setup for someone building it in their shed. OS Dyno day at your place?
    1 point
  32. Nice! Here's my 1962 MkII. :-
    1 point
  33. Looks mint. gona insulate the shed for late night pulls? i assume you have lots of mates now
    1 point
  34. Quick cut of pine dowel for the handle. Will redo this later, just screwed it on for the time being. Vents fitted up. There are 2 x 100mm vents on either side at the bottom and 1 x 125mm vent at the top left. I had to give them a few light taps with the hammer to make them a bit stiffer for adjustment.
    1 point
  35. Chopped this nugget in half to try and split it, not knowing that there were separate chambers/baffles (which made this more of a prick which added an extra hour or 2 of stuffing around). Used a cutting disc to cut around the diameter then gassed out the ends to access the middle chambers. Also gassed off the fittings to save some time on the grinder.
    1 point
  36. I'm pleased to announce this boat has successfully completed stringent reliability and performance trials including but not limited to... Shallow water performance Low speed maneuverability Higher speed spins and dicking around
    1 point
  37. Finished up the bumper mounting brackets. 5x large plug welds down through the floor skins into them. Outer edge also has a strap on each side, which it is also plug welded through. Also filled the last of the holes in the sills. Have now painted a chassis black primer underneath, anywhere underseal did not exist. Seam sealer tomorrow. Then spray on underseal.
    1 point
  38. And another pic with the angle box attached.
    1 point
  39. Since I can only safely mix 30kg of sand at once Ive made some partitions over the pattern for 30kg sections. Will do some sequence of removing walls and work along the pattern. Probably key the sand together as I go so hopefully it doesnt shift around. The base is an overly complicated 30mm spacer that the inner cores align to. Could have done it out of wood but when you have a big printer why not! Once Ive figured out if the pattern works I will be able to fill it at the foundry in one go without partitions.
    1 point
  40. Between filling the intake grate with lake weed, and intermittently running like a bag of dicks, it was a bit lame initially. It would start off strong but get to the point where you got 100% power or a stumbling surging 20%, but run progressively worse the longer you persevered. When it went well it'd skim along pretty well with two of us in it. IMG_20201219_155248 by John Bell, on Flickr IMG_20201219_155144 by John Bell, on Flickr
    1 point
  41. Had been referring to this as a green croc (distasteful shoe) up until now. But @Vintage Grumble and my wife made the comparison to a council green wheelie bin the other day. I believe its the same material, So currently thinking about garbage related potential names. Considering branding it with 'NO HOT ASHES', or 'GREEN WASTE' or similar. Lets hear your suggestions. I think its customary for boat names to be weak wordplay so keep that in mind. This afternoon I tentatively buttoned up the wiring, threw the ute tray on the back, rinsed the dust off quickly, and met @Vintage Grumble and @keltik up at Bonniedoon to see how quickly it would sink or otherwise fail.
    1 point
  42. Keep in mind that in Seedy's guide is now out dated. You can't weld to cast metal, and everything must be tig'd. Pretty sure he mig'd his back then, but you can't get that legal nowadays.
    1 point
  43. wait till he sprays the red
    1 point
  44. Right, so a couple of months pass with little finicky wiring stuff being done, and the last of the fab work done. A big V mount set up wasn't in the budget, so Jon made new pipework to run from the GReddy elbow to the existing GReddy cooler, and welded an elbow to the turbo outlet to make a fairly short straight shot into the cooler. Now with the power figure I had in mind, a measly 3" exhaust would never do. So we made the call to go 4" the whole way - 3.5" outlet off the turbine housing necks up to 4" as quickly as it could physically fit It runs into a 4" Adrenalin R centre muffler, then back to the existing 4" section (Which actually turned out to be like 96mm, weird) with the Apexi muffler. https://imgur.com/0i3fcX6 Nice and tucked up, heaps of clearance! Now it was ready for the first start up https://imgur.com/h0DfDBE Naturally, it fired up super easily, even with the base tune on the Link. A little more fettling and it was time to hit the dyno!
    1 point
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