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Showing content with the highest reputation on 30/05/20 in all areas

  1. Moved the kombi today.. All went pretty smoothly, started and drove it on with a flat tyre. Pumped the tyres up at a gassy on the way and drove it off at the other end. Starts amazingly easy for something that's sat for the last 8 years, straight off the the key. Where it'll spend the next few months having the rust cut out.. Good times..
    6 points
  2. So with the beam now temporarily fixed in place I stepped back to check how things were looking. Chucked my Dragways on with some new metric nuts that I picked up from supercrap during our last town run (I only bought one set as I wasn't 100% sure of the sizes so have only got two nuts on each wheel. I'll get some more when we are next in town). With the L300 beam being wider than the original Thames unit the 6J Dragways fill the front arched really nicely. I did a quick alignment test using the old string and axle stands method and she is sweet as. I've also managed to improve the positi
    6 points
  3. Had some real progress this week. Front and rear windscreens in and exhaust built. It is really looking like a car. I had Jeremy from Bespoke Auto Glass come and do the windows, Back one went in piece of cake, front is a real prick because of the trim. The trim goes into the rubber then the whole lot goes into the car. Very glad I got the expert for this job. The Drivers side tail pipe can be seen poking out behind the rear wheel. And the other side I also played around with the height of the from of the car. Ground clearance at the lowest point, under the sway b
    6 points
  4. All ready to go..made up a couple of gaskets also
    5 points
  5. Because the front beam runs at an angle where it needs to be fixed to the chassis mounting plates, only the outer edge is currently making contact, so the next step is to cut little infills out of some steel to fill this gap and I can then tack everything together. (the mounting hole shown in the pic is the one that I have had to sacrifice). Thanks for reading.
    4 points
  6. Think I’ve found it’s sweet spot, needle 2 turns down the carb slide. Seems to make the most power. Raised the motor too which I think helped running but is slides down the stem as you steer. All was going well until it got some rope caught in the prop as it was going along bringing the prop to sudden halt with the motor still running full steam. Made a huge grinding sound followed by a bang. Thought it lunched the gearbox initially but on closer inspection the prop spring driving it had done its job and snapped protecting the prop.
    3 points
  7. Made a top plate to mock up the coil over top mount. I somehow managed to mess up drilling the stud holes, so I guess this is just for testing. This is pretty much where it will sit. Ride height will be in the middle of the stroke.
    3 points
  8. Grabbed some longer bolts and bolted the wooden discs to the new chassis plates already fixed to the chassis legs by the other fixings. I then turned my attention to centering the suspension beam. I followed a similar methodology by digging through my off-cuts of timber until I found two matching pieces that fitted snuggly between each L300 suspension tower and the outside of each plated chassis leg. Tapped the timber spacers into place and then lifted the L300 beam the last few millimetres until it was sitting snuggly against the chassis plates. Fitted a tie down strap to the front of ea
    3 points
  9. Grabbed a factory manifold for beer money. Hmmmmm.... log?
    3 points
  10. picked up my gasket kit for the motor last night, hooned that in and gave the motor a few coats of black, didn't come out as good as I wanted but its done now. Then today I started assembly of the bike for the last time, got the wiring loom in, motor and gearbox and seat and tank. really hanging out for my peanut valve covers to arrive too as I can't stand the standard ones. got my tires ahwhile back, after heaps of back and forwards I decided on some TKC80's for maximum trendiness and got them mounted up, was super chuffed with how they were looking and then tonight I went t
    2 points
  11. I dropped a 2.5mm screw.
    2 points
  12. Also. acid dipping ended up being 250 cash as it was 150mm to long for the tank so had to sit for some days then swap ends for a couple more. hot galv was 316.25 all up inc gst so $566.25 all up for the full treatment. That’s with me removing everything my self. not bad considering most coatings places wanted around 2K and that’s just a sand blast and spray 2K under seal. Where the sand blaster can’t reach they just spray cav wax, not actually removing and rust that’s formed. in saying that, it’s a lot of work to fully strip a chassis, but for a 4WD that gets driven th
    2 points
  13. Tumblr isn't performing so well, but you get the idea. I made some progress.
    2 points
  14. Another fruitful few days here at "Rough and Ready Restorations" in sunny Queensland. Never having tackled anything like this before I'll give you a quick run through of the rather rustic method that I used to determine the final position for the new L300 front beam. Kids, please don't try this at home. With the front up on axle stands the Thames was sitting on the piss, so I figured a decent first step would be to level the van up by lifting the rear onto jack stands. It took a bit of fine tuning but I was finally able to confirm that the old Thames is now sitting perfectly lev
    1 point
  15. Just got to weld the tube in and fill up the two holes
    1 point
  16. Get some semi sealed and some plus 50 bulbs https://www.narva.com.au/products/72040 these still have the old look but better with H4 bulbs. I wouldn’t recommend led bulbs in your dash. It can make it too bright.
    1 point
  17. Our boot lock is butchered from accidentally locking the key in the boot once... now it’s jut a vague hole that you can turn with a screwdriver etc. The rear springs look factory to me. If you decide to upgrade, try to find something stiff with a linear rate (not progressive).
    1 point
  18. I have this lever/cable assembly if you wanted to upgrade, I do you bes' priiii
    1 point
  19. If the stars align I’d be down on this.
    1 point
  20. Need to get the cab back on before winter kicks in. Picked up a new bush kit. Had my query’s as the crush tube is thin and the big washers only aloe for from an M8 witch I though was a bit on the small side. The thinner crush tubes allow for an M12 witch was better but after talking to one of the engineers at work he said the crush tubes to thin for the torque setting of an M12. So I found some thicker crush tubes laying around work and got some longer M10 cap screws witch I think will work better. Cap screws being tensile too Also made some spa
    1 point
  21. Rolling burnouts on sue on the hard sand would be so lol
    1 point
  22. It's definitely not very fast, he said he kept it standard for reliability. There is a lot to be said for that, so many times I've missed out on track time due to an issue of some sort. Also, man its been a LONG time since I've done any kind of event. In the short drive to and from the wof place is actually goes better than I thought it would. Haven't had it in a 100kph area yet, I'm guess it'll be pretty obvious then.
    1 point
  23. A lovely mod moved this over from the tech thread, I figured it might be interested for some peeps to see the progress/fail. Anyway, look at this poos. It took a wee while to get to this situation, as I was looking at the pins on the breakout board like a mech eng, I assumed the line of inputs would start at 1, but naturally it started at 2, so all my control wires were in the wrong holes. This was an easy fix. There were other issues though, one of the built in tools with LinuxCNC is something to check the latency of the pc. This was showing a late
    1 point
  24. Hmmm seems like there is a bunch of sediment in the tank that keeps blocking the main pilot jet as it steadily ran worst and worst in rough conditions and eventually broke down lol. Rowed back to shore and drained the tank. Ran out of light so I’ll clean the carb tomorrow. Also noticed it has the worst possible spark plug cap so Ill pick up a rubber one from the auto shop down the road.
    1 point
  25. I made a spoon from a scrap of stainless steel I found on the road
    1 point
  26. Finally got Sparkels out on the water to test the new carb. Super easy to start now, first pull and she’s away. It’s running a mix of 1:20 ish, probably closer to 1:15 as I poured slightly more oil in. Anyways out on the water it ran great at 3/4 throttle. Full throttle it bogged down a bit and seemed like it was running out of fuel. Adjusted the needle height a couple times out at sea to try let in more fuel which slight fixed it not fully. Want to adjust the height of the prop as it sits low in the water and apparently fills the exhaust tube with water making it smaller an
    1 point
  27. ooh yip... The courier driver was really pissy (because he was too scared to drive down the driveway and thought he wouldn't be able to turn around) and chose to walk his sorry ass down the drive with a couple of pairs of headers. he lobbed them on the deck and scratched the deck in the process Feel the 202 powah!!!one. The headers look okay, pretty sure they were advertised as 2.25" outlet but the short bit of pipe is actually 2". I'll just chop it off and weld a bit of 2.25 on the collector and call it good I'll barry up a adapter for the weber to the
    1 point
  28. The bellcrank to actuate the second arm had a lot of wear where it slides on the main control shaft. I put it in the lathe and turned the worn section down and made a brass sleeve to press on. Also the mounting bolt at the pivot is a bit of a dumb design with the threaded portion running directly on the pivot race so there is heaps of slop. I put a layer of heat shrink on that section of thread and that took the slop out. Shifter feels like magic now, gears are easy to find and slot right in with no vagueness
    1 point
  29. Sorted out the leveling issues with another pair of front struts from @VRTDamn its high... Have a whole lot of other parts coming Friday: -Replacement front and rear half of centre console in red -red carpet set -side moldings -headlights -window trims. Need to pick a color for exterior fairly quickly, want to get it in paint and sealed up before the thick of winter as the gx takes garage priority.
    1 point
  30. I'm not sure its ready for my level of sarcasm.
    1 point
  31. I picked up some 4 mm steel plate from my friendly re-cycler when we were in town last week and proceeded to cut the mounting plates for the front end. The photo below shows the left hand side mounting plates, but I made up a set for the right hand side too. You would have thought that the holes would line up on either side but their are slight differences betwen the spacing. Not much, probably in the region of about one to two mills out. I guess they weren't that accurate back in the day. You will also notice that I made both plates longer than my original templates as shown in the pictu
    1 point
  32. Did a little clear out of the garage during lockdown and found my wheel collection so decided to test fit them and see what size flares i need to make. Need at least 60mm for the 6 black wheels and 90mm for the formula mesh. Fitted a Momo Prototipo i forgot i had bought. Picked up a wood lathe and did a couple of near 500kg dump runs. And worked out how to get a stock looking tachometer into it. Discovered on a Japanese forum that the Mitsubishi Townbox dash cluster has identical wiring, just need to run 1 wire from the ecu to the cluster for the tach signal. Works p
    1 point
  33. Job done, well happy with how this has turned out.
    1 point
  34. Bout time I put up a post for the on going evolution of this build, a few years ago discussed with the mrs what car she wanted to build and she wanted an hq, we put it on the 5 year plan... 3 months later im working out on site at one of contacts powerstations and got talking cars, got wind of an un finished project a mate of the site fitter had sitting in a shed, que a few calls and some $$ changing hands it came home with us, its been evolving ever since, initially we spent 8 weeks and plenty of $$ getting it back to roadworthy with the 202 and 3 on the tree, since then its had my 327 chev
    1 point
  35. 1 point
  36. It would be for building some more aluminum boats, standard size sheet. I've done a lot of profile cutting work and I currently work servicing cnc plasmas and lasers so have a fair idea of what's needed, just haven't had much to do with routers
    1 point
  37. Monday was a public holiday here in Aus, but yesterday my good mate Cameron took my manifold adapter in to work and glued it together for me. Dropped this off at my place last night. I owe him big time.
    1 point
  38. Picked up some acid etch. $58 for a 2L kit. Sprays super thin. was hot today so just started with light coat from front to rear, then straight back to front again and kept doing that till it was all used up. Left it looking pretty blinging! started on the 2K black where the gun packed up. Only spraying like an air brush it took hours to get one coat. Then the needle seal gave out and started spraying paint out the top of the trigger covering me. Continued on as I was already to far gone. Had about 80% done where it then decided to work properly, did a couple strokes and let off
    1 point
  39. Time to get the taps out.. picked up my air comp from a mate so I’ll hopefully spray it at some point over the next week
    1 point
  40. Rented a compressor. It packed up halfway thru my first side. Supercheap backup to the rescue. Then the gun clogged up. But, got a coat of primer on. Tomorrow i unfuck all the fuck ups a bit and hopefully get it almost primed. I know tigerstripes e'rywhere, and the tailgate is as warped as a warped thing. Thanks.
    1 point
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