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Showing most liked content on 02/01/16 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Wasn't going to put it up here, as it was never supposed to be a 'build', but as with anything I buy it always seems to turn into one as my luck is never for me.. Drove all the way down to new plymouth to check this ol pig out and go over a few things with the seller and see what it was actually like, and then came back to think about a few things and do a bit more research etc. It had a few issues that needed sorting, something was up with the shift kit that was fitted to the trans as was shifting way too early, needed a really good tune, had a huge dent in the sump and on accelerating out of a corner the oil light would come on, and has a issue on the rear drivers side panel where he caught a post going out his driveway or something. Couple weeks went by, and only wanted it more so thought the change was right, so went back down to NP and got this. This was about Nov '14. Specs were something like: 440RB big block 727 shift kitted 3spd auto electronic pertronic flame thrower II ignition holley 750 carb mounted to edelbrock performer inlet manifold 17x8, 17x9 D window wheels 2.5" twin exhaust system etc etc All factory interior except the terrible modification to the bottom of the front door cards. ( managed to hit a bird on the way up, it exploded in a ball of white shitty stuff and feathers on the corner of the bonnet and grill ) lol. I left it in taupo for a few weeks for a mate to give it a tune up, and also get a few things sorted and looked at while it was close to a few old boys that know all about these old things as the brakes and suspension/bushes needed looking at, and also the sump got repaired while it was there. Couple weeks went by and had the mrs run me back down to taupo to pick it up so could bring it home. mid dec '14. Cheers for looking Discussion fred here : //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/51330-nzeds-67-chrysler-new-yorker/
  2. 4 points
    On to the power steering ram. I jacked the car up, grabbed the ram and surprisingly it rotated about 10 degrees... This was surprising as it basically needs to not rotate to function correctly, and sure enough the rotation translated into about 5 degrees of toe in/out. This could explain some of the wanderyness as the ram would push one way and have a certain toe, then push the other way and change the toe 5 deg. Shithouse. I removed the offending item; This is such a hilarious design, the ram is the tie rod between the wheels, it gets pushed directly by the steering box, and the end of the ram is connected to the chassis. The push from the steering box also moves a control piston in the ram so there is a fucking complicated joint in there to achieve this and get some adjustment. I dismantled it with some difficulty as the reason it was all moving was a wee pin that stopped the rotation had slogged itself out and had wedged itself in there. The fucked pin fits in this wee hole; Various innards; Shit was in basically pretty good nick, the o ring on the control piston was a bit poo and causing the ram to leak a bit so i replaced it as well as the two joint ball bearings. About this time I realised the the pin was the root problem anyway, it was wedging itself against the control piston and preventing it from moving freely when under pressure..... This is the offending pin; i turned down a cap screw to act as a pin, nutted it on and tacked it in place to make sure it stayed there.... Chucked it all back together checked it all worked and got yet another alignment The steering is now super effective, them Brits sure as fuck knew how to overpower steering feel with hydraulics.... Thats it for now.
  3. 4 points
    A couple days later from the above, another mate came up and stayed with us or the weekend. By this point, the timing light had arrived, and the rocker cover gasket was replaced and fixed that leak. but I still have a rear main seal leak. this one isnt really fixable in the car, so its a motor out jobbie and pull the crank out. ---- Fuck that, oil is cheap. haha. Anyway, we got the pig running again, and reset the timing with the new light. It's awesome BTW. We took her for a lil spin around the block and was running pretty good, but I still hadn't done the smaller Jets, as i wanted to wait till it was all sweet before trying to change too many things at once. Runs much better, was definately a bit fat... but here ya go, you tell me: Haha. I know i am supposed to be taking it easy on that ol diff head, but I couldnt help myself. LOL. First one was the single, then on the way back about to pull in everyone had the camera's out and nek minite I get both wheels going. Choice as lol. thanks for still reading haha.
  4. 4 points
    Took the car down to Milford Sound/Bluff over the last two days. 1700 km in 36 hours and the only issue was yesterday morning when the carburetor iced up when leaving Milford, switched to "Winter Mode" and the engine started back up. Averaged 6.4 L/100 km with two people, equipment and open windows, going the speed limit the majority of the time. This cheeky little bugger had a go at eating my car:
  5. 3 points
    Sick of my good engine getting covered in so much crap. Filled the holes between chassis and body with some rubber and ali where the rubber would melt, by drop pipe etc. Along with the under tray, should stop most of the crap going on front half of engine at least. Made a heat shield. Goes here It heat soaked pretty bad when driving around slow/parked up, when 4wding/waiting for geezers having a chat and 12 lunch breaks. I had thought about mounting the radiator under the tray. but feeding it air and not mud was too much drama. plus half the problem is heat from manifold and turbo. heat wrap would turn into a big mess. so rather elaborate heat shield it is. seems to work pretty sweet so far. These things are pretty squishy at 4psi. have something on the way to sort that.
  6. 3 points
    I was really busy at work, and didnt have the drive to get it going for a few months, but I was at a point where I knew the Crank was worn to maximum limits. but wasn't uneven or any major gouges in the big ends, and only 1 journal had a slight discolouration. One of the Main journals had a bit of a groove but after a bit of advise from a couple old mates that have been there and done that and had a lifetime of these t shirts, they advised to just polish it up and give it a hoon. it was only about $150 buck if it doesnt work, so not a huge loss but meant that we get it going alot less damage to the pocket. It was either do the above, or pull the whole motor out, and get the crank ground and it would just open a massive can of worms and end up in a complete new motor. I was pretty happy with that and got a new set of bearings as I can tell you now, it was not going down well with the missus and was the centre of many many many arguements about the fact this car was not supposed to be a project and need this kind of money thrown at it.. Anyway, enough of the stories. here's some pic's to tell the rest of the story. interestingly enough when you look at the big end bearing shells. Most poeple will say initially oh they're fucked cos you can see the copper lining. We here is where I got really stuck and struggled to get over. As the stock bearings didnt actually have a coating like the mains to. Everyone in NZ told me that they'd never seen that before and didnt know the factory did use some of these. I had emailled a company over the states and they said they had seen it once before and it was a weird batch of bearings and it didnt work, they were very suprised they had lasted this long! Anyway here is a few more pics, some of them went over snapchat so some of u may have seen them before. Lol. had to have a bit of a laugh. i hadnt mentioned that the car came with the new sump bolts, and a new pickup. when the sump got pulled off and the dent in it fixed, the guy forgot i told him we the parts where in the box and needed to be fitted at the same time. he said he didnt know, but in actual fact i think he didnt use them because it was a bit long, and needed a bit of a modification. Anyway, I sorted it out and fitted the new pickup as well. Once it was all together, I primed the system and it came up quickly, and really high, i got a bit of a freight actually. but thought maybe it was because of the moray's i used on the bearings, and maybe needed a few turns to actually see what it was like with the motor running. Because I had to take the dizzy out to get the pump drive, and so I could prime the system first instead of just cranking it, I needed to put the dizzy back in and reset everything. Its been a few years since i have had to do that! took some remembering, but i managed to get it to a point where it fired and nearly ran. I had to adjust it about 3 times before I could get it to run clean enough to be able leave the key and accelerator pedal, and just set the timing by ear as I still hadnt bought a light. Oil pressure was alot higher than I was expecting, around 75psi when cold and about 55 when hot! got a big of a fright actually, and holy fuck there is some oil, its damn nearly filling the rocket covers up and its filling them faster than the heads can drain haha. A mate came over with his light, and i made a small adjustment to the timing but I had an oil leak issue. I had tried to reuse the rocker cover gasket from when i had to reset TDC on #1, but it wasn't working very well LOL. I pulled the pin and left it till I could get some new ones. I also ordered a timing light of TM, a digital Innova 5568 i think it is, and it arrived in 2 or 3 days. So all in all, the bearing job and pump seems to have fixed the problem, its a shame I couldnt do it 1 by 1 to find out exactly what the cause was. But I do know the spring in the oil pump relief valve hasnt broken, and nothing seems to be wrong in there. Oh well, at this point i'm as happy as a pig in shit. Thanks for looking.. Shane.
  7. 3 points
    Hi everyone, managed to get a few things done in the madness between christmas and new years. I folded the gutter seams back over the new metal, tidied up alot of small details like s few of the spot welds had burned right thought both layers of metal so I had to plug them up, tidied up the inside of the window, pretty happy. Stripped the bog off the weld to the rear of the sunroof, shit was over a cm deep in places. it's a bit of a mess, heaps of warpage, dents surface rust and even a nice rust hole to fix. Then the other day I finally bit the bullet and fixed my cockup were I had tried to weld up a 1 inch hole in the firewall, I think I had the welder on the wrong setting and just kept trying and trying to plug up the holes, but just blasted more and more holes in the flippin thing! so I cut it all out. and very carefully welded in a patch. much better! also, Santa (Beaver what a GC!) brought these up from kapiti for me. they fit good, are comfortable as and not nearly as fucked as I thought they would be. right i gotta go pack for a week of family camping, after which I'll be hanging out for more shed time! All the best for 2016 people!
  8. 2 points
    Once I got it going again I decided I wanted to stick with the same gear ratio, so ordered another set of gears from the states. This particular ratio is quite hard to buy as no aftermarket manufacturer makes them. I managed to find a set of NOS gears for reasonable money, was about 500 slides. Didnt think it was too bad? I'll put some pics of these up later, but we started getting back into wanting to sort the diff properly with an Eaton Truetrac LSD and a proper rebuild of the complete differential. As it happened, there was a poker run coming up the next weekend or so after we got it going, so got her a new WOF/Reg and we went for a drive.. Below are some pics from the lunch pit stop @ Clevedon hotel. Was a good day, won a couple spot prizes and a competition.. Untill we went to leave at the end of the day, got about half way home and then lost oil pressure..
  9. 2 points
    After a play this afternoon, the engine bay went from this To this guards and front back on, just need to sand and paint the bullbars and do a quick service and it will be ready for re-reg . Oh, and cut the rest of the paint to match the guards.
  10. 2 points
    I have just gotten the car back from the panel beaters, and the team at Friend & Wistrand (Palmerston North) have done a fantastic job overall. Colour matching wasn't necessary as the car uses the original colours. You wouldn't know where the areas that they touched up so very pleased with the results. Not the greatest of photos, but here are the photos that Steven (Person in charge of my car) sent through to me, feel free to have a look I decided it would be nice to take a photo of the ol' girl on top of a hill in one of my parents paddocks, now i've lost the panda in the foliage.
  11. 1 point
    Starting a slow and steady build of a early 70's CB100 running full CR 85 suspension.... Will be running a smaller 17in wheel on the front and shortening the forks a little. Maybe someone wants to swap for my 19? Also if anyone is after any cb 100 parts let me know as I'm only really keeping whats in the last picture.
  12. 1 point
    Is it possible to run the cable inside the sill to bypass the crossmember? By the looks of your pic you might just get away with it.
  13. 1 point
    I have relocated the battery to the boot. The cable is quite large and thus the bend over the crossmember shows up through the carpet. is it okay to cut a hole in the crossmember in order to route the cable through, or is this considered a structural change? It already has several holes from the factory, just not in convenient places for me.
  14. 1 point
    The key there is to bang out the stud with a hammer and punch. Jack the g box up a bit and the mount should be free.
  15. 1 point
    I calibrated torque equipment at my last job and pneumatic stuff could vary rediculously so banging a torque stick on to a rattle gun that may or may not be working correctly is just waiting for trouble. The best torque wrench i came across was a warren&brown so accurate next is norbar teng are shit the rest are barely reusable after 12 months. Buy one of the above if your using it at work get it calibrated youll sleep better.
  16. 1 point
    Cheers fella's. Yeah definately agree. there is nothing like knowing where shits at for yourself. Just hurts the pocket alot more is all! Oh well. I'm still lovin it, so its all worth it.
  17. 1 point
    Another interesting use in this form, when it's not creating future customers for the local hearing aid supplier its an awesome weed blower. Very effective on concrete, not so much on grass as it has a tendency to scorch things which in itself in another bonus as there's not usually a lot of weed/rubbish left to throw in the bin either.
  18. 1 point
    Awesome! 'cept for it hogging your $$ it's sweet!
  19. 1 point
    Mean tank man. Pity about all the issues, but at least now you know where it's at.
  20. 1 point
    So now she's going, have driven it a bit in the last couple weeks, but now its definately time to start making its appearance better, which has always been high on the priority list. I know its should be the same photo but forgot to take one first: to: Blacked out around the window frames. Looks way more finished and has helped to reduce the roofline, making it cleaner looking and not so busy around the doors.( yes yes my sheds a fucking mess.. haha ) Next is I need to do something with a pinstripe down the car. thats the next thing. then I want to change the wheels, but to do that I need to pick the bog out and unstitch the Spats that they welded in for some fucking stupid reason. this one is a bit of a big job. Also need to get back to trying to put some cash aside for the diff, cos this one is not going to last very long.. It's just soooooo easy and effortless.
  21. 1 point
    Seeing as the clutch has been slipping for a while you might want to get the flywheel machined to prevent juddering. But you probably don't give a hoot.
  22. 1 point
    Front wheels off, Drain box, Pull axles, Pull all the shit off the box (plugs, speedo cable and slave), undo bellhousing bolts. Remove and replace clutch. Smash it back together. Done and dusted
  23. 1 point
    So drove it to work a couple times etc, was going OK but something was still up with the trans and was trying to find out what it needed to fix why it was shifting so early, and had talked to Chuck Mann transmissions about it and he said it was really something he needed to see. Anyway, took the mrs for a ride into town to buy some smaller jets as was running a bit fat, got about 1.5kms from home and with a huge bang we lost all drive... i walked home and got the car to tow it home. this was xmas eve day. sweet christmas present huh! Once I got it home, started to diagnose what had gone wrong. being an open diff, it seemed like we had broke an axle, but at the same time I couldnt fully rotate the pinion all the way around as it was jamming somehow..?? Also, i managed to figure out we only had drive in reverse and nothing in in fwd but i wasnt 100% sure on this. Here's the result of what was wrong with the diff head.. Basically the cross pin or cluster gear broke, came out and got wedged between the carrier and the ring gear.. when it came time to passing the pinion gear obviously that wasnt to happen and locked the diff up. It has cracked the carrier as well!!! i am lucky it didnt break an axle, these are a little harder to find in the right length for the C Body. So after spending all my money on getting the car and not really having the money to buy an LSD setup straight away, we did some research on what to put in it and if I should change the gearing from 2.76 to something bit more peppy. While trying to squirrel some cash aside, I came across another diff head to throw in the car to get us up and running again. I was warned it was very noisey open head, and had been sitting for a very long time but a couple hundy and a trip up from CHCH a complete diff head in the same ratio arrived at my door. I cleaned it up, gave it a paint and slapped it in the pig. Because the guy that sold it to me made such a big deal about the noise, i decided to use about 3/4's morays / 1/4 diff oil... thinking that should work a treat. haha.. can't seem to find the pics of this sorry. So having the diff back together meant it was D Day as to what i thought was a fucked tranny, and sure enough - toast. Dang it. A mate came over and mustered up some motervation to give me a hand to remove the box. its a big heavy bitch i tell ya! I rang Chuck Mann back and told him yep, Im bringing the box down, but now it has more issues than we first thought and can we pull it apart and find out what was wrong with it? He said sure can so come down, and i took a day off work to drive down to rotavegas and see him.. I'll let some the pics do the talking.. yeah nah, those alloy filings arent good.. here is where we got stuck.. it is supposed to just slide out but something was jamming it up...?? ^^^ think this is why.. So.. yeah nah it was pretty micked. Chuck gave me an idea on what it was going to cost to rebuild it in a few different types of box. So i went home with my tail between my legs licking my wounds haha. After a couple days he came back with a quote on a solid 500-600hp all day drag capable box and I gave him the go ahead get it done. I think at this stage it was about July-ish? and being as busy as he is, he needed a couple months to slide in amongst everything else he ad going on. So fast forward a few months, and I went back down to vegas to pick it up. YAY.. so in she went. fucking heavy bitch, doesnt look that big, but it is very deceiving. Took it for a drive after and was all good and the difference in the box was amazing, such a good feeling.
  24. 1 point
    Have those seats just had the top 1/3rd hacked off em? I think you should send off to midnight!
  25. 1 point
    picture-less update, pretty much haven't achieved a lot on this lately, have put the pistons and crank back in with new rings, bearings and thrust washers. just getting the head back together to go back on, its been away to get planed as it had a small bow in it, tore down the spare gearbox to find a bad bearing so have replaced that and its ready to go back together also thinking of putting the internals in the housings of the gearbox in the ute already cleaned up. hopefully have it on the road shortly!
  26. 1 point
    *rebuilds engine* over REALLY long time. Thanks CAM. Making new engine mounts. Old ones were a bit not right.
  27. 1 point
    Cant remember the price of it at work, will check on tuesday
  28. 1 point
    today i started final sanding the outside of the car ready for colour. I've never dry sanded a car for the final prep before so i spent the morning trying different things and in the end it became apparent that i could use the 150mm DA for the big flat bits. so I've been using the DA with 400 to knock the tops off then going back and finishing it with 600. this has worked a treat on the big flat surfaces and is about two billion precent faster than doing it by hand with water. I've finished the boot lid, the roof and the bonnet. early in the day i was still trying to see if i was fucking up the lines using the DA so I've been wiping the panels with prepsol quite a lot and everything looks good. so i started on the rear quarter and thats about 80% finished. once again I've been using prepsol heaps to see how the lines look and so far so good. dunno if ill get anything done tomorrow. it was cripplingly hot today and for a while i was long boarding it by hand which nearly killed me. i might take a day off tomorrow.
  29. 1 point
    WOAH, Page 34 - Last post 2012 So yeah, I still have this thing and has been hiding away in my little shed filled with crap. Neglected all these years. I found out with the Sigma wagon that if I give myself a deadline that I have a better chance of completing something. So I have set one out for the Lancer. The deadline is Early December 2016 - OS Drag Day Nothing has been done to this car for the past 3+ years except obtain parts. Yesterday I went for a stroll around Zebra Car Parts as Bigfoot told me about a Lancer that had arrived. Managed to score the grill which is actually in real great shape, a digital clock and a cool bonnet emblem which probably wont find its way on the Lancer, but cool none the less. Ive collected other bits and pieces and will get to those later. The only thing to do really is save a whole lotta cash and get this thing panelled and painted Happy New Years Y'all
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    i have used them, best to set your gun on low/1, give it some nungas nungas , then set your torque wrench on like 80 nm, check it and wind it up till you find where its actually torqueing the nut to. and adjust your rattle gun setting to the best position. I did find when I went to a much better quality rattle gun I had to dumb it down to the lowest setting to get the right torque i went away from using them in the end because for my own peace of mind knowing that you torqued the nuts up helped me to sleep at night. especially on them long as days were your doing 14 jobs and you cant get of to dream land cause you cant remember if you did up the nuts on the last rush wheel bearing job. thankfully that has never happened to me, but as i said peace of mind knowing its right was worth the extra 2 mins . I do things the same way every time , so if I haven't put the torque wrench back in the draw I know I haven't torqued the nuts, its a good system, same goes for sump plugs, and brake caliper bolts, all ways put the spanner on the drainer, or ring end on the hub, if the spanner is on the drainer/hub then the plug/bolts aren't tight. I may be a little ocd but I have never left wheel nuts loose or fucked an engine cause the plug fell out . my 2 cents , got a little of topic sorry
  32. 1 point
    im not sure how much longer i can keep this up. 2015-12-30_03-19-36 by sheepers, on Flickr 2015-12-30_03-18-51 by sheepers, on Flickr 2015-12-30_03-18-37 by sheepers, on Flickr
  33. 1 point
    Discussion thread //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/51310-rhubarb77s-1970-escort-coupe/ Here's a few recent pics of my Escort that I've owned for the last 5 or so years. I'm the second owner so most of the body and interior is untouched except the RS front end, some gauges, new carpet etc. I first took interest in Escorts growing up in Central Otago. I think my first car, bought for $100 was a MK1 four door with house paint all over it. Lots of gravel roads = lots of great memories So now, 20 years on I have this escort. It took a long time to find the right car as I didn't want to do any bodywork. The current engine, 2.0L Pinto was professionally built at an Escort performance shop here in Queensland. It pushed out 150rwhp on the rollers and runs a 14.5sec 1/4 mile with standard diff and standard Sierra 5 speed. A few weeks ago I stumbled across a custom Pinto turbo exhaust manifold when I was buying some escort spares. So that's kicked off a whole new chapter. I've crunched the numbers for the turbo route and it looks expensive. So my MK2 Escort project will have to go and the 150HP motor is up for sale. Going turbo with the car is going to change it. A lot. Fuel injection, big diff, big brakes etc. I'm in two minds about going ahead with it really as the car is so well balanced & very original. That's partly why I started the thread, to get some opinions about it so please place a vote in the discussion thread. Cheers Turbo project- T28 ball bearing Turbo on custom stainless manifold, Sierra EFI inlet manifold, YB pistons, YB rods, YB distributor, Holden LS1 coils, Toyota Supra W55 gearbox with adaptor bellhousing. Shopping list is still huge.
  34. 1 point
    things went well and now its beer o'clock. 2015-12-29_03-58-30 by sheepers, on Flickr 2015-12-29_03-58-40 by sheepers, on Flickr 2015-12-29_03-58-52 by sheepers, on Flickr 2015-12-29_04-13-24 by sheepers, on Flickr 2015-12-29_04-13-39 by sheepers, on Flickr
  35. 1 point
    How can you tell you are turning into a grumpy old man? When you pay good money to have the A/C system rebuilt in a crummy 1980s car. Cheers to Kevin from Alert Auto Air in Devonport. Best person to talk to about A/C - especially if you have an old car. Discuss: http://oldschool.co....1-sc-chit-chat/
  36. 1 point
    A few proper photos of the wheels and headers. IMG_7381 by Richard Opie, on Flickr IMG_7378 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Brendan makes his own collectors - in this instance it collects to a 2" V-band flange, I will probably run a 2.25" exhaust after the headers however. Can't speak highly enough for the build quality of these however, I think I'll polish them in due course ie. closer to startup time. IMG_7344 by Richard Opie, on Flickr IMG_7336 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Absolutely enamoured with the final aesthetic - these are EXACTLY what I wanted, and I super enjoy the way the engine bay is sorta 'split' into thirds with all the functional/beautiful things going on in the engine bay. Inlet trumpet and throttle doorts ---> individual coil pack bangs ---> swoopy 'takoashi' header exit doorts. IMG_7241 by Richard Opie, on Flickr I gave the Watanabe's a brief polish with a fine paste - it was probably always going to be a given they'd come up massively AWESOME but they did anyway. And rolled the car out for a wipe down with Quik Detailer and a run over the bumpers and plastic trim with Kleers trim dressing or detailer or whatever it's called, but it's choice. IMG_7253 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Back looks higher than it is in this shot for some reason, I think in part it's to do with the wider track in the front and less shadow from the guards. Either way, the front actually needs to come up very slightly to get the lower arms to parallel. IMG_7255 by Richard Opie, on Flickr IMG_7260 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Nom. IMG_7455 by Richard Opie, on Flickr At the conclusion of today, I began removing the dash so wiring and construction of a pedal box mount can begin. This bit scares the shit out of me if I'm honest, but thankfully I have some good guidance/people on the case to help. Thanks for looking.
  37. 1 point
    today i took the motor out and in traditional OS tradition here is a picture of me playing actual guitar in the hole. you probably can't tell but I'm playing a fine rendition of the sound of silence. 2015-12-24_04-25-34 by sheepers, on Flickr 2015-12-24_04-08-58 by sheepers, on Flickr so, onward. whats wrongs with this picture?? 2015-12-24_02-54-59 by sheepers, on Flickr thats right keen eyed reader! the pipey bits should line up with the slots in the fire wall, but they don't. id been intrigued by this oddity for some time and today after i got the motor out i decided it was time to investigate. i have no fucking clue how this was assembled in this way, i could not get it out without breaking the housing. its the wrong heater core but i suppose that much was obvious. there just was no way of getting it out without breaking it. so i broke it. 2015-12-24_03-02-46 by sheepers, on Flickr whatchaaaa gonna do now? well, tomorrow is Christmas day so ill probably take tomorrow off. boxing day however is prep engine bay day.
  38. 1 point
    Put the front back together this evening and fitted my latest wheel acquisition, 13x7 Watanabe Falcon Turbo. See Steeb, I got "turbo's." The wheels are brand spankers - never been fitted to a car and date stamped with August 1980. IMG_7085 by Richard Opie, on Flickr
  39. 1 point
    So the very day the dirty old bitch got an alignment and i had decided some sweet summer cruising was in order the power steering decided to become a bit dog, working then not working etc. I decided the first thing I would look at was the pump as it needed some loving anyway, it was only being held on by 1 bolt when it needed three; That pump was a right cunt to get off, I had to remove the radiator to get to the lock tab on the pulley nut to remove the pulley cos the stupid fucking brits thought that the mount bracket needed to be nuclear bomb proof rather than just slot the fucker so you could just lift the pump out. The pump is a beautifully made bit of kit, although about 3kg worth for unknown english reasons. I am remembering why I fucking hate british vehicles and love boring Toyotas, that is 1/4" folded and welded steel plate; I have purchased the parts car shown in a previous post and went to Takaka to collect a few bits, but I stupidly forgot to take all the tools I needed to remove the pump off the parts car. My poor little truck was shitting its ring out coming back over the hill I must say, it was second gear most of the way up... a ton of steel on an 1800 townace ute will do that. Now, the innards of my pump were actually pretty immaculate once i stripped it, in fact they they looked like new, so I decided I could utilize my mediocre machining skillz to make a backing plate to attach more bolt holes, rather than waste an afternoon going back over the hill; Some time consuming blunt holesaw action; Turning the shit to the size of the spigot on the back of the broken mount Matching the plate hole positions to the existing hole and half holes, I tapped the new holes to match the half holes, I figured the half holes would do something then. Et voila! I wont be able to crank those bolts up hard cos it is only 6mm mild steel with the equivalent of an M10 going through it, but it will be heaps better than before. I put it all back together tonight, I gave the rad and the engine a bit of a flush before reassembly and used a slightly longer V belt on the pump drive as it was a bit short to get on and off easily. It has not fixed anything power steering wise but at least I know that the pump is ok now. So fucking stoked I got an alignment approx. 4 kms before need to pull the steering rack to fix it, top planning there dickhead. /end transmission
  40. 1 point
    the red looks really good in the sun. i don't think its too black, in fact i think its just right so thats that sorted. Rosso red it is. 2015-12-13_12-41-44 by sheepers, on Flickr 2015-12-13_12-41-53 by sheepers, on Flickr 2015-12-13_12-41-30 by sheepers, on Flickr
  41. 1 point
    long night was long. 2015-12-09_09-10-54 by sheepers, on Flickr not prefect yet but its getting there. i reckon ill block this back with 180 and then maybe 1 more coat of primer.
  42. 1 point
    and then i painted it. got rid of all the shit that was on the roof jut to make sure there was no nasties hiding under there. found a couple of patches of bog straight on the steel that were rusting so i got rid of that. then, paint. 2015-12-06_12-33-39 by sheepers, on Flickr 2015-12-06_01-26-47 by sheepers, on Flickr 2015-12-06_01-26-57 by sheepers, on Flickr 2015-12-06_01-27-06 by sheepers, on Flickr
  43. 1 point
    Car is officially now worthless. Time to scrap it or trade in for an Audi S4. Discuss: http://oldschool.co....1-sc-chit-chat/
  44. 1 point
    Shit yarn #2. Factory AW11 boot mat. Apparently these are rare, and foamers foam over them. Gonna hit it with some Jif and Simple Green then it should be mint, mayte. Discuss: http://oldschool.co....1-sc-chit-chat/
  45. 1 point
    just going to stick this here, I like this. a lot.
  46. 1 point
    FUCK YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! got up early and went up to peters shop this morning to fold up some new drip rails. this went very well indeed and by about 10am i had two drip rails and two new roofy side bits. peter then instructed me on how to fit it all up without fucking it up so i went on my merry way. i followed what he told me and now one side of the roof is fixed and back to factory. its rust free, has heaps of primer in between the layers and its fairly straight. all these things make me very happy indeed. new drip rail. new drip rail, roof side thing and the trim that goes onto it. 2015-10-31_03-04-54 by sheepers, on Flickr checking the fit with the A pillar trim. 2015-10-31_03-04-14 by sheepers, on Flickr 2015-10-31_03-04-06 by sheepers, on Flickr then plug weld it on. 2015-10-31_03-04-22 by sheepers, on Flickr and this is the inner all welded in and primed ready for the outer to go over it. 2015-10-31_03-03-41 by sheepers, on Flickr next fit the outer 2015-10-31_03-03-59 by sheepers, on Flickr 2015-10-31_03-03-50 by sheepers, on Flickr tack in place and fuck around for ages getting it sitting right then weld. 2015-10-31_03-03-25 by sheepers, on Flickr 2015-10-31_03-03-17 by sheepers, on Flickr 2015-10-31_03-02-59 by sheepers, on Flickr 2015-10-31_03-07-52 by sheepers, on Flickr 2015-10-31_03-32-22 by sheepers, on Flickr 2015-10-31_03-32-30 by sheepers, on Flickr so i still have to finish the front and rear parts but thats minor. I'm super stoked that the roof now has drip rails and its all factory and right. you know when you worry about how your going to fix something for ages and it becomes bigger in your head than the actual? well anywho i had stressed about the roof for ages but its all coming together nicely. ill do the other side tomorrow an then I've just got a couple of patches in the corner and the sun roof and were done!!!!!!!! fuck and yes.
  47. 1 point
    So a simple rundown We will have 2x Warp9 motors series wound DC. These are pretty much your electric forklift motors but pack more punch. They put out 150kw and 360Nm each. Any more in this chassis and it would snap in half! They'll look abit like this minus the transmission. We will also have a special motor controller the Manzanita Micro Zilla 2k-HV which is the EV equivalent of an ECU, this will allow us to shove 192v and 2000amps into the motors. We also have Li-ion batteries 192v of batteries, which is 60 batteries with 160ah of storage. The result will be an overly torque beast in a overly light but robust KE70. I call it KEV70 or just Kev. Now I haven't talked cost much at all. This KEV70 is largely funded by sponsors we have: ETCO Kumho Tyres NZ Good ride Tryes NZ Geraldine Auto Restorations Barber Well Drilling Electro flash Hammer Hardware. Along with my after school work at the local convenience store/dairy. Which has left the project 75% funded. We are looking for just the last few grand to pay for batteries and we'll be ready in November to debut this beast and its 300kw and 720Nm of torque.
  48. 1 point
    both of the above parts have been moved to the next stage. the drivers door has now got some bog in it to make the shape right and its got another coat of primer on it. the boot lid has been long boarded with 250 and the shape is tip top so its got its final coat of primer on it. Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers, on Flickr
  49. 1 point
    picked up the radiator from being recored today, looks good. not cheap but wanted to keep original copper jobby. sat it in, need to source some new hoses, and hook up the heater hoses also next job is to get the exhaust done
  50. 1 point
    i dun this. Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr Untitled by sheepers-ra28, on Flickr
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