V8Pete Posted January 11, 2015 Posted January 11, 2015 ive had an exhaust and intake coated by procoat, you could touch the exhaust after thrashing the car. I was impressed by how well it worked tbh. but it was quite expensiveI get terrified of where all the heat that os stopped from radiating into the engine bay goes after these types of treatments. Does it ever fuck anything else from not being able to escape as easily? Quote
Steelies Posted January 11, 2015 Posted January 11, 2015 everything post coating? exhausts are consumables anyway ? Quote
h4nd Posted January 11, 2015 Posted January 11, 2015 I have spent more time repairing a cheap Jaycar toolbox multimeter than using it. Save yourselves the hassle, get one with better leads, and auto-power off. Quote
Testament Posted January 12, 2015 Posted January 12, 2015 yeah it revs quick without any load, probably on the road I wont even notice I think yeah got the motor back in and ran it a bit on axle stands, we are modifying the fuel tank at the moment so there is a proper return in it then I will take it for a drive. I already regret not taking the crank and flywheel to be dowelled tbh as I was so close to having it apart. I'll just have to wait until it does it again now hahaha also cut bump stops, not sure if I will notice any difference, and I didnt measure anything so something major might smash into body now instead of bumpstops. who knows what will happen thats what I mean with mine/all over the show, but its was like that anyway with points and electronic dizzys and single coil setups. when driving its fine/has never concerned me. this is with microsquirt output going to MSD adaptor box to OG veglia tacho. Quote
sentra Posted January 12, 2015 Posted January 12, 2015 i would like to find a steel t10 12tooth sprully. i have an aruminium one but for various reasons would like a steel one. otherwise, a hob formthis profile would be choice. Quote
UTERUS Posted January 12, 2015 Posted January 12, 2015 i would like to find a steel t10 12tooth sprully. i have an aruminium one but for various reasons would like a steel one. otherwise, a hob formthis profile would be choice. wat Quote
sentra Posted January 12, 2015 Posted January 12, 2015 i can never remember if its a toothed belt pulley or sprocket, hence making up a word to suit. 1 Quote
Testament Posted January 12, 2015 Posted January 12, 2015 depends what profile tooth and pitch is neccersary Quote
flyingbrick Posted January 13, 2015 Posted January 13, 2015 I get terrified of where all the heat that os stopped from radiating into the engine bay goes after these types of treatments. Does it ever fuck anything else from not being able to escape as easily? Wouldn't it just go out the exhaust system with the rest of the heat? Lol Quote
sentra Posted January 13, 2015 Posted January 13, 2015 t10 square style, however am all sorted now manged to accidently do an antilag type start in reverse when testing it. need to coat all the exhaust stuff, holy shit its hot/everything glowing. 1 Quote
mjrstar Posted January 14, 2015 Posted January 14, 2015 I have some Dumb spring positioner controlled pneumatic actuators which are getting old and forgetful now. these control vane style dampers 3 independant 300kw fans to maintain an overall chaimber pressure to within 2mm wg (chaimber is about 5 stories high and quite expensive so i don't want to implode/explode it if possible). control is though HMI via 4-20ma signal to modulate damper position. rams are running 6 bar and 4inch so capable of ~4000N (see what i did there) looks like this: https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRlNCbGnEDv53QCVNxGQPBu23k9UMGTDAPTr9U25m82i_81gT_A0yiVMhc Currently two options: bin pneumatic actuators and run electic with built in feedback. Such as these: but i am concened about duty cycle with the microadjustments these things are making on the run and I can really afford to have them take a break. http://www.linak.com/products/linear-actuators.aspx?product=LA36 option 2 is to find some linear positioners and retrofit to current actuators, they would need to run 4-20 feedback and have a stroke of ~300mm currently this is my prefered removes reservation of duty cycle and i know the rams are up to the task. Questions A: do these things simple linear positioners exist, if I put a geared system to convert linear to rotary position (seems like rotary positioners are way more common) what do i do about deadband? will it be worse than the current setup. (which is OK mostly during steady state but is a bastard at low flow /ramp-up where small changes have a massive effect on airflow / pressure ok I lied.. Option 3 exists which is to control fans via VSD but the length of cables from MCC will make it cost prohibitive and minimal energy savings are likely. hence two options... Tech spam it up.. Quote
peteretep Posted January 14, 2015 Posted January 14, 2015 servo units with encoders to replace pneumatics or 2 x 5/2 valves and an encoder strip on a pneumatic ram. If they arent running fast (i imagine very slowly) then that should be fine. Or use no encoder and use plc to hunt when the pressure changes those linak things arent made for duty cycle as per your concerns IMO. If you talk to the linak dude they are generally used for tables and beds etc in offices and hospitals where low duty cycle and generally clean environments and how much money do you have, pneumatics gon be cheapest but probably least accurate but most robust Quote
mjrstar Posted January 14, 2015 Posted January 14, 2015 Probably sneak up to 20k on parts to do this properly. The current system has no positional feedback and big problems happen when set point is miles from pv. As you would expect on start up or when other airflow influences are made which affect chamber pressure. (Fans and valves etc..) Tell me more about encoder strip? Quote
peteretep Posted January 14, 2015 Posted January 14, 2015 Here's some encoder units. Not a strip as such but same thing http://www.festo.com/cat/en-nz_nz/products_050500 I think it's more like you should run twin sets of valves. When pressure is outside a set range, use high speed valves to make large movements then when it is within a certain range, switch to low speed valves. Not really sure how encoders will help when there are several factors which vary pressure Quote
peteretep Posted January 14, 2015 Posted January 14, 2015 And maybe reed switches at end of stroke to alert if its unable to correct the pressure Quote
fletch Posted January 14, 2015 Posted January 14, 2015 I have some Dumb spring positioner controlled pneumatic actuators which are getting old and forgetful now. these control vane style dampers 3 independant 300kw fans to maintain an overall chaimber pressure to within 2mm wg (chaimber is about 5 stories high and quite expensive so i don't want to implode/explode it if possible). control is though HMI via 4-20ma signal to modulate damper position. rams are running 6 bar and 4inch so capable of ~4000N (see what i did there) looks like this: https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRlNCbGnEDv53QCVNxGQPBu23k9UMGTDAPTr9U25m82i_81gT_A0yiVMhc Currently two options: bin pneumatic actuators and run electic with built in feedback. Such as these: but i am concened about duty cycle with the microadjustments these things are making on the run and I can really afford to have them take a break. http://www.linak.com/products/linear-actuators.aspx?product=LA36 option 2 is to find some linear positioners and retrofit to current actuators, they would need to run 4-20 feedback and have a stroke of ~300mm currently this is my prefered removes reservation of duty cycle and i know the rams are up to the task. Questions A: do these things simple linear positioners exist, if I put a geared system to convert linear to rotary position (seems like rotary positioners are way more common) what do i do about deadband? will it be worse than the current setup. (which is OK mostly during steady state but is a bastard at low flow /ramp-up where small changes have a massive effect on airflow / pressure ok I lied.. Option 3 exists which is to control fans via VSD but the length of cables from MCC will make it cost prohibitive and minimal energy savings are likely. hence two options... Tech spam it up.. Those electric linear actuators are shit for what you want to do. option 2: http://www.omega.com/pptst/LD630.html I have used these before. they are mint. Look up LVDT positioner.many different types, probably can find cheaper and with a nz distributor with local stock. Nice smooth analog signal, easiest to work with compared to digital encoders -linear or rotary -also that link above is suitable 5-300mm so should be good. option 3: why not vsd? for 300kw motors will be spendy, but suprising the amount of energy you will save. i can get you a price if your interested, we get a good rate on them. why do you need new cables? Quote
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