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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


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3 hours ago, 87creepin said:

Where do you guys purchase your wiring supplies like cables/terminals from? 
 

I’ve usually gone to Repco, but we all know how sketchy their stock/prices can be. 

youll find most auto sparky  supply  places are trade only  wholesalers (might get the occasional one whos cash sale friendly) most of the stuff i get is thru pan pacific JAS or napa, but trade accounts, MSEL  have a good range of more motorsport specific stuff but not general  Auto elect. I can do parts supply from my trade accounts, if you know what  your after i can get you  prices/quote as needed 

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On 21/11/2023 at 13:13, 87creepin said:

Where do you guys purchase your wiring supplies like cables/terminals from? 
 

I’ve usually gone to Repco, but we all know how sketchy their stock/prices can be. 

RS components or whatever they're called now 

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On 28/11/2023 at 16:15, SOHC said:

Its just for the adapter plate witch bolts to the flywheel to attach the UJ for a jet boat, I could slot one hole 

I have both 308 and 350 chev flex plates in the garage. The bolt pattern for the crank looks the same, so you should be right. I don't believe that GM changed the bolt pattern on the 305.

The flex plates are different, the offset is changed other wise the same.

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7 hours ago, Kiwibirdman said:

I have both 308 and 350 chev flex plates in the garage. The bolt pattern for the crank looks the same, so you should be right. I don't believe that GM changed the bolt pattern on the 305.

The flex plates are different, the offset is changed other wise the same.

Cool thank you, the bolt pattern is all that needs to match for the jetboat application

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Question for those who have played with rust removal via electrolosis.

Do you thing it would work for an engine bore that was rusty A.F/seized?

Fill the cylinder with washing soda enhanced water, susoend the cathode in the cylinder, and hook up tge block and cathode to a 180A arc welder. 

Surely that would boil the rust off the bore walls quick snap?

Got a big, ugly in line 6 that sat with the plugs out for a loooong time. Havent pulled the head yet. But its seized hard enough that an attempt to tow it free blew the clutch.  Worth noting its big, heavy and ugly enough that removing the engine will be an ordeal. (Let along handling it once its out)

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54 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Question for those who have played with rust removal via electrolosis.

Do you thing it would work for an engine bore that was rusty A.F/seized?

Fill the cylinder with washing soda enhanced water, susoend the cathode in the cylinder, and hook up tge block and cathode to a 180A arc welder. 

Surely that would boil the rust off the bore walls quick snap?

Got a big, ugly in line 6 that sat with the plugs out for a loooong time. Havent pulled the head yet. But its seized hard enough that an attempt to tow it free blew the clutch.  Worth noting its big, heavy and ugly enough that removing the engine will be an ordeal. (Let along handling it once its out)

The go to for this type of thing has been a mix of Diesel and Auto Trans fluid. Try mixing 50/50 and fill the cylinder. Let it soak for a good long time. 

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CRC evaporust is pretty good at making rust disappear. Non corrosive too. May need multiple applications, let soak for a few days, waterblast, blow it out with air, repeat. Should eventually leave nothing but unrusted metal.

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On 07/12/2023 at 17:02, ajg193 said:

I saw a video where a guy put vinegar in his cylinders for a few days.

Didn't help and probably just locked it up worse.

 

Your best bet is to say 'mei banfa' and walk away from the engine

I have done this with motorcycle tanks and it does work

 

BUT VERY IMPORTANT 

there can't be any air in it, any air gap will rust. You gotta fill it right up, and then neutralize and flush with fresh water, then coat immediately 

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