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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


Roman

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Never had a problem with the Starlet, run it right down to just about fumes a few times. I guess the tank is a bit more of a simple shape than some other cars.

I think there may be some slight factory baffling in there too.

 

Hilux on the other hand is a piece of shit when you get near the empty line on the guage.

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19 hours ago, ajg193 said:

Hilux on the other hand is a piece of shit when you get near the empty line on the guage.

VN commodore would stall the pump at 1/3 tan round a bad corner. had to remove fuel line from inlet and give it a shot of air at 120psi to get it spinning again

 

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On 21/10/2022 at 18:09, shizzl said:

I once had a gearbox stuck on a dowel/spline.

gave it a big clutch kick and she popped off

It was stuck on the dowels.  Honestly I've never experienced anything similar to that. I was hammering on an old bread knife to get the box out far enough to get the cold chisel in and then a prybar. Fought me the whole way off too.  That was absolutely nuts  20221025_184010_copy_2250x3000.thumb.jpg.69f1fac80a5b990dd7437b3b2a4abd87.jpg

 

Never again .  

1846312315_images(27).jpeg.a76ae14bde61507eb55a549f50c27519.jpeg

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6 xLiPo 18650 for $3. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/electronics-photography/batteries/rechargeable/other/listing/3825434292

1802330462.jpg

They're in a pack which is annoying if you want to split them, but ideal at 24V. I've just realised it'd be simples to bend up the tabs and parallel them (Equalise the charges 1st!!, needs BMS)

At 1kWh pack, the short circuit current would be 1250A, so be CAREFUL!

I make that about $100 k/Wh

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On 21/10/2022 at 10:58, shizzl said:

I’m a total noob with efi and conversions.

need info on what I should be doing for this efi fuel system for the 4age swap .

 

I only have a low pressure line and pump on the car at the moment.

im guessing that line can be used for the return line.

do I need to use a surge tank or would it be fine directly from the tank with an inline efi pump?

 

No, bin all the original shit and start again.

In some applications, even return pressure can exceed the carb hose rating, especially if pump working pressure is greater than the flow ability of the hose (sizing not matched properly). And you would fail cert for not running efi hose in an efi swap anyway.

Surge tank is probably sensible if you plan to do hunnits in it.

Can rig them up fairly inexpensively with all the aftermarket stuff available these days.

Just make sure you check the lvv requirements if fitting one in the boot because different vehicle types have different requirements. (Hatch/wagon with open boot vs sedan with sealed boot for example)

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I tape mine in place with duct tape along the top so easy to remove if I need to do window/lock fixing in the future. 

Or if it just needs securing along the top then use sikaflex 123 ms bond

https://www.placemakers.co.nz/online/adhesives-sealants/adhesives-sealants/caulks-and-sealants/interiorexterior-sealants/sikaflex-123-ms-bond-adhesive-and-sealant-300ml-bond-grey-595755/p/5900433?gclsrc=aw.ds

Make sure to tuck the bottom back into the door so any condensation will run back into the door rather than out into your carpet. 

Our toyota van  has long slots an inch up from the bottom where you pop the plastic through. 

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A lot of OEMs use non setting butyl to stick them on. You can tell its this stuff because its black, soft and sticks like shit to a blanket. I think i got my last lot of butyl rope from Aliexpress.

Rover used duct tape though, so if its good enough for them, its good enough for me. If you use black plastic, it does make it surprisingly hard to locate the holes you need to poke in it...

IMG_20220917_170448.jpg

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7 minutes ago, igor said:

Possibly silly question so laugh if you will but how important is that plastic behind the door cards? 

Very. My Rover was leaking water into the foot wells, over the door seal, because the tape on the bottom of the plastic had lost its stick. The moisture also soaked into the door cards and caused them to distort and warp.

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Yep- @igor any moisture that makes it past the window seal (which will be plenty) and then sits in the bottom of the door ,because the drain holes are badly placed or blocked, can then find its way as condensation onto the cards if not protected. A bit warmth in winter and the rising damp will fuck the cards on old cars with the hardboard backing and they'll warp easily (very hard to straighten once bent)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Recommend me a tablet plz 

Need one for work. Will be used daily a lot,

will keep many photos on it 

Needs to be big like a4 sheet size 

Need to be able to write on the screen with a pen thing (stylus?)

Needs to be reasonably tough /drop proof 

Android would be preferable  

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20 minutes ago, cletus said:

Android would be preferable  

Ipads in hard cases for work just work

But fuck there stupid own photo format and no SD card

 

Bought a cheap as Lenovo for our digital sign in, was 250 from Noel leemings

Struggles with just loading the web page for its 1 singular job

 

Maybe a Samsung, there fancier phones are pretty good so far imo (and there cheap ones are pretty shit..) 

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