The Bronze Posted March 6, 2017 Share Posted March 6, 2017 Is that the softer stuff you're not s'posed to use on cars, but I did anyway? If so, I do. And if 3/16 is standard brake size for coons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0R10N Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 Anyone dealt with NZCVs in Christchurch before? Thoughts/tips? Got some unobtainium here that needs rebuilding/replacing and all the rally jokers have said they are the best crowd to talk to. The other option is sourcing from the USA of all places (thank god for Rockauto). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranter Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Use them for all oddball performance Japanese imports and some 4wd stuff also and have done for years, no dramas with their work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 On 6/03/2017 at 21:40, The Bronze said: Is that the softer stuff you're not s'posed to use on cars, but I did anyway? If so, I do. And if 3/16 is standard brake size for coons? Its the stuff you must use on cars, this stuff or steal, yes its the same size as a coon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 Yep copper nickel is fine, it's straight copper you can't use. Copper nickel is nicer to work with than steel, you can bend it quite easily by hand 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 22 hours ago, cletus said: Yep copper nickel is fine, it's straight copper you can't use. Copper nickel is nicer to work with than steel, you can bend it quite easily by hand I have a roll of steel 3/16 Bundy witch is even easier to bend than the copper/ nickle, its utter shit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 The wiring in the engine bay on my Volvo was so fucked inside the conduit there was 6 wires together all with no insulation, at the main connector plug someone had blobed silicon allover the wires to keep them from touching, but everything worked fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted March 22, 2017 Share Posted March 22, 2017 So im sitting here looking at my fuel gauge its on a 280E-40F ohms range sender seems to be a 90 - 0 (tho i will have to confirm its full reading again) gauge is a bimetallic strip type, and i have 2 spares (the water temp also seems identical and google tells me the ohms range is similar) I am considering removing coils from it until max throw matches the sender full moving the pivot pin further up the strip to match the throw to new heat range and or bending for fine adjustment (a closer look shows i can move the whole strip by removing a rivet and refixing it to adjust the pivot point) this sounds pretty reasonable to me, or do i need to think it over more? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 On 3/23/2017 at 10:48, tortron said: So im sitting here looking at my fuel gauge its on a 280E-40F ohms range sender seems to be a 90 - 0 (tho i will have to confirm its full reading again) gauge is a bimetallic strip type, and i have 2 spares (the water temp also seems identical and google tells me the ohms range is similar) I am considering removing coils from it until max throw matches the sender full moving the pivot pin further up the strip to match the throw to new heat range and or bending for fine adjustment (a closer look shows i can move the whole strip by removing a rivet and refixing it to adjust the pivot point) this sounds pretty reasonable to me, or do i need to think it over more? Well hot damn it worked Things i learnt theres enough adjustment in the gauge to shift the range +- 40 ohms for fine tuning to a sender (i.e E can be shifted from 40, down to 0 or up to 80, and same with the F) The heating wire is ovbiously bloody small, but it looks to be about 50 coils i unwound 10 of them, and spread out the remaining along the bimetallic strip. and it appears that i have now adjusted the gauge to a full sweep over 90 ohms at around 10v, which seems to be what the gauge will see i the cluster. The bench set up i used was a bit rigged because i have the minimum of electrical tools, but in any case it seems to be proof of concept. i will have to pull the sender out and test it though its full arc to see how accurate the gauge will be in the points between F and E. Will post up a full walkthrough of what i did, because i cant find anyone modifying a bimetallic gauge anywere (dipole types look to be possible with resistors on the full and empty sides). I did find a case of a guy modifying the sender some how, and various senders chopped up and put into other units. But this method would appear to be rather cheap and easy 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Anyone DIY'd copper headgaskets? with waterjet cutting being quite cheap, i'm tempted to draw one up and give it a go. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 The local gasket place in new Plymouth do them all the time. They use a cnc cutter thing that is usually used to cut regular industrial gaskets and they just chuck a piece if copper in and trace your supplied head gasket. I think they quoted me under $100 for a 6 pot one 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Don't copper head gaskets need o rings and receiver grooves? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Only for fully sick max boost I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 How do they even cut copper on their machines? I always thought they used something like a scalpel blade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Sweet, I might give this a go, my gasket supply has dried up and I can only get my hands on 1.8mm thick ones now, 1.2 would be much nicerer. Just so happens there is a waterjet cutter and a good stock of copper at work, i'll have to draw one up and see what bribes the workshop lads prefer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 How much toe in should I give an old ford with beam axle and cross ply tires? and should I measure from the rim or the tire? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bathcollector Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 1/8 " worked well on my F100 with crossplies. I measured the outer tire edges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 23 hours ago, bathcollector said: 1/8 " worked well on my F100 with crossplies. I measured the outer tire edges. I have zero right now, Would measuring off the inside of the rim be ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bathcollector Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 I guess so ? Getting steering box etc centred took a few push/pulls up and down the drive first. I rebuilt my steering box too, so no loose stuff to upset measurements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 holden axles need ford stud pattern. what do people do here? weld up factory stud holes? weld up access holes? how close can a stud be to a hole? is this all a major no-no or a bit of a yeah-yeah? how special do the holes need to be for press-in studs? ala: note 3x access holes that keep things interesting. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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