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Orions DR30 Wedges


mikuni

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Hah, I remember going for a bash around Taupo in the squid, was freaken awesome!

Still remember wtf'ing at how much room there was behind the engine, in the engine bay.

Toyota coilpacks dont seem to like it when things start getting hot, the entire unit is in/on top of the spark plug hole.

At higher power levels people seem to opt for the likes of the mitsi coils, where they are external.

As well as IIRC the Toyota coilpacks have inbuilt dwell control, but usually the ECU wants to take care of this instead... So I think the mitsi ones dont have this problem.

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Matt, I've been appending the discussion link to each of my updates over the last few months, but no one has bothered commenting so I gave up. Clearly these cars do not hold much interest.

notes taken,

i've said it before i think you've got the sweetest fleet on oldschool, i love your dr30s

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It's an inherent flaw with the way the build threads are structured that I've never found intuitive. But tbh I should really just shut up and get used to it.

Hah, I remember going for a bash around Taupo in the squid, was freaken awesome!

Still remember wtf'ing at how much room there was behind the engine, in the engine bay.

Toyota coilpacks dont seem to like it when things start getting hot, the entire unit is in/on top of the spark plug hole.

At higher power levels people seem to opt for the likes of the mitsi coils, where they are external.

As well as IIRC the Toyota coilpacks have inbuilt dwell control, but usually the ECU wants to take care of this instead... So I think the mitsi ones dont have this problem.

haha yes, the amount of room between the engine and firewall is ridiculous. All of it is gearbox :lol:

Good point about the inbuilt Toyota coilpacks getting hot. That must be one of the reasons the Aussies run external coils mounted to the firewall on their FJ20s. I have a couple of spare Mitsi coilpacks and igniter modules left over from converting both TX3s to Link/wasted spark, so could possibly utilize those to save a bit of coin.

But again, going back to the Aussie builds, the majority of them seem to be using a single coil per plug instead of wasted. I'm sure the advantages are negligible, but it just looks neater somehow.

Still waiting for the bank balance to recover from the large hit to the groin which was the shed, but I will most definitely try and run squid out to Brendan sometime in the flesh so he can give it the once-over and tell me whether or not my delusions of grandeur are, in fact, delusions. :mrgreen:

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Toyota coilpacks dont seem to like it when things start getting hot, the entire unit is in/on top of the spark plug hole.

At higher power levels people seem to opt for the likes of the mitsi coils, where they are external.

As well as IIRC the Toyota coilpacks have inbuilt dwell control, but usually the ECU wants to take care of this instead... So I think the mitsi ones dont have this problem.

I seem to recall reading this on many a toyota project thread, guys trying to use toyota coils with aftermarket comp, and having to swap to mitsi

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If you want to go with COP what about VQ30DE coils? There's always heaps of them at P&P, they seem to be okay at 20+PSI & 500rwhp. I'm using Mitsi coil packs in wasted spark on my car though, they seem to be fine apart from the terminals being fragile if you are a gorilla.

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crap, I walked past a VQ30DE at pick a part yesterday. Should have stopped to take a look at the coil setup.

Phil, the CAS in the stock dizzy has inherent issues with heat failure due to being mounted under the intake manifold... I don't think it would be very wise to mount coils there. Not too hung up on making squid appear "stock", but "purposeful" I can deal with - so chances are they'll be mounted on the firewall.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Took coupe to OS trackday on Friday. Came away from the event with a list of common things on both Skylines to keep an eye on after prolonged thrashing:

1. Needs an intercooler - after four or five laps, the power drop in coupe was fairly noticeable. (Already sorted with the HKS jobbie on squid)

2. Water temp - thirty year old factory radiator is only adequate for around the same number of laps, even with the fan wired permanently on, but water temps start rising after that. A custom replacement radiator in the same dimensions may be on the cards.

4. Brakes - ohmygodthefrontbrakesareshit and have massive fade, felt ridiculously grindy and spongy afterwards as well; hopefully a bleed will see them right.

Home safely, and changed the oil and filter this morning. Brake bleed and top-up will happen one evening this coming week, when I have a spare pair of hands available to help.

Other than that, coupe ran surprisingly well. Only minor incident was a wobbly tacho needle and corresponding misfire, but this went away after I swapped to a different igniter module after the first stint (thanks Craig/vegie for sorting one out for me :D)

Dhooooo!

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  • 2 months later...

OK, RX-7 is finished, time to turn my attention back to squid.

As most people know I'm going for a throwback '80s theme to the interior. At the moment I can't seem to decide which period-spec gauges I want for the centre console.

So here are the options:

1. Defi DIN-Gauge - not really throwback at all, but I have one sitting around unused in a box that sorta matches the interior colour scheme (red illumination) and doesn't look that out of place.

Defi_DINB-3.jpg

2. LAMCO gauges. According to my old Car Graphic magazines from the '80s these were ridiculously shit-hot back in the day. But sourcing them can be a pain in the arse as they rarely come up for sale in the style I need. (Sample photo isn't the corect style.)

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3. Omori gauges. I would already have some if they weren't scene taxed to hell :(

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Yeah it cost me a pretty penny (something like $900 after currency conversion back in 2010...) and it's sorta going to waste as I changed tack and decided to put it in my track car instead, but before I could do so the engine blew up spectacularly and it's been sitting untouched ever since.

Gauges are so far down the list of things to get sorted that I shall ruminate further/keep looking on YAJ for suitable 80s spec - if nothing comes up within budget, the Defis will probably get utilized.

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  • 2 months later...

Monroes? Get out :lol: I bought replacement Tokicos for mine, off the shelf, from SAS in Manukau, then promptly got them shortened to fit the Japanese springs I bought, see below.

Otherwise, I have a spare pair of rear shocks in the boot of squid... will check and see what brand they are.

Springs - short of buying shitty Cobras, there's probably not a lot available to you locally. I know people tried debunking the theory when it was first put forward, but the Cobras will actually raise the car rather than lower it (see DJZ's DR30 thread for further proof of this, and the photos of squid in the other thread)

These are the ones I bought direct from YAJ for both cars, they are a lot shorter length-wise than the factory ones/Cobras and therefore necessitate the shock modifications in order to stay captive:

http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b138929157

Otherwise... my short-term plan for squid is to obtain some standard springs and lop off a coil or two all round, carefully following Clint's advice in the cert thread. Mark/105 has some fronts out of a 110 which apparently fit, I will need to grab those at some point. Already have some standard rears kicking about.

An update on the squid situation - had a good yarn to Tim @ TTT Auto Engineering the other day, after Jono/Pooman suggested I should talk to him about fabrication. I was impressed by what I saw, and the overall workshop ethic, but the waiting list is currently out the door. Brendan is the other option but he's gone all hermit-spec apparently, plus the waiting list is about the same. Oh well, gives me some time to get funds together and make an informed decision :)

Lulz for the thread - my mate bought some 14" dished Impuls for his AE86, I couldn't resist a small test fit on the coupe prior to shipping them off to Wellington. Looks like 14x8.5 -13 offset isn't, shall we say, optimal for a DR30?

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  • 3 months later...

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