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Orions DR30 Wedges


mikuni

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Guest Thousand Dollar Supercar

If those LEDs are quite directional, could you point them sideways to stop the bright spots on the gauge face? Or would the gauge become too dim?

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Guest Orion

There's not much room to play with as the inner ring of the gauge mechanism limits the positioning of the LEDs inside the cup. I tried to make them roughly the same height as the old bulb holders they replaced.

I've sanded the faces down to help with the light spread, but that's the best I can do without buying some newer SMD 3528s.

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Guest Orion

The R30 ones aren't particularly dull, they just wink out from time to time because of the shitty connections behind the dash :D

but yes, you can get drop-in LED dashboard and panel bulb replacements easily enough these days.

I tried looking for a reference photo, this was the closest I could find: http://www.autobulbs...oard-Bulbs.html

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Guest Orion

Why do you need John for, surely you can pour brasso in the bores yourself?

Not sure what that's in reference to, but he was the only person who managed to get rid of the coupe's original hesitation problem after five years and countless people scratching their heads over the issue going, "Well fuck, we don't know."

Is that a capacitor you wired in series with the one on the left?

Yup, it's a bit hard to see but both of them have 360 ohm capacitors fitted to limit current flow.

The circuit board threw me at first, I thought the bulbs had been wired in parallel originally but then took a closer look and found it to be series.

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Guest Dell'orto

Not sure what that's in reference to, but he was the only person who managed to get rid of the coupe's original hesitation problem after five years and countless people scratching their heads over the issue going, "Well fuck, we don't know'

Haha - a very smokey blacktop

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Guest snapper

mate, that's an unusual noise. have all your neighbours accounted for their feline companions? your car is such a pussy-magnet, I reckon it's sucked a kitten into the manifold and it's somehow wrapped around the new timing chain. reaaareeeerrrrrwwwwwwrrrrrrrrrr.

this is the universe telling to you take the rx siete instead.

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Guest slacker.cam

Eek. I thought you were just having an Ed panic but that really doesn't sound good.

I'd suggest pulling all of the belts off and having a listen. No water pump (assuming its belt driven) for 30 seconds from cold isn't going to matter and this rules out a bunch of stuff.

If it's not an ancilliary I don't think I'd be driving it anywhere or running it for extended periods when its likely filling your sump with ground up steel, ally, or plastic. On that note, just to speculate, maybe the new chain tensioner is so good its worn the chain through the plastic lined chain guides?

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Guest k-trips

Yes as Cam says I would eliminate all ancillaries by dropping all the belts and then running it again for <30 seconds.

If it is still there I would suspect a chain over tension issue. Is there any way you can back off the chain tensioner a smidge and recheck it or is it one of them ratcheting type ones?

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Guest Orion

It's a ratcheting tensioner unfortunately. The reason why I suspect oil pump is because I went back and listened to a couple of old recordings of my grey Skyline when it had the smashed in sump (and subsequent blocked pickup/strainer) and the sound it makes is identical.

If it was something overtensioned/overtightened I'm guessing the sound wouldn't lessen after the engine's been running for a while, which is what happens.

Looks like another sump off mission...

Better ready the rotary just in case.

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Guest k-trips
Looks like another sump off mission...

Rather than just admitting defeat without further analysis - why not rip the belts off the ancillaries and make sure it's not a dodgy alternator bearing or something.

I mean I'm no expert and as someone who works in an office, I most probably don't know shit about cars, but it's seems much more likely to me that when your mechanic reassembled the engine that they may have slightly overtightened an ancillary belt and a bearing that was slightly dodgy to start with has finally shit it's pants rather than the oil pump is suddenly making a noise after changing a timing chain...

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Guest slacker.cam

There's a shitload of components in engine bay that make whirry noises when they fail. I seriously wouldn't go straight to assuming the worst case scenario.

Also, the bearing in the alternator belt idler on my 86 is on its way out. It makes bad noises when it's cold but once it warms up the bad noises go away.

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