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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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On 13/12/2020 at 20:20, gibbon said:

This doesn't really belong here but not worth starting a new thread over:

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I was wondering what the weights listed on the dataplate relate to?

(Mine is 400113 and for years I thought it weighed as much as a Falcon at 1665kg lol) 

1665kg is Gross weight (kerb weight is 1230/1325kg)

I'm guessing the 2865 is combined towing or load or max weight?? 

The others - don't know guessing axle loads  

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I’m mostly finished prepping the engine bay in my starlet for paint and the stamped chassis number on the firewall has pretty much disappeared from all the coats of primer, is that going to be an issue or should I strip that area right back and just put some lighter coats on it? Cheers

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17 minutes ago, AllTorque said:

Do you have a VIN plate as well or just the chassis number?

Here are the WOF rules https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-identification/vin-and-chassis-number

Yeah has the original vin plate with all the info; model, engine, frame number, colour etc.
The frame number is what’s stamped on the firewall and barely visible. 
Might just wire wheel it back and light coat it to save any issues

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39 minutes ago, _Matt said:

Yeah has the original vin plate with all the info; model, engine, frame number, colour etc.
The frame number is what’s stamped on the firewall and barely visible. 
Might just wire wheel it back and light coat it to save any issues

If it helps when I (rattle can) painted a bike frame recently I painted one coat, waited for it to dry, put a strip of masking tape over the stamped number and then continued painting. At end took off tape and it was right colour and easy to read. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 14/10/2016 at 20:38, cletus said:

anything other than bolting it in as per this

http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf

 

needs cert,

 

and then you would have to comply with this

http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Seats_&_Seat_Anchorages.pdf

 

If you adapt the seat to bolt to the original anchorages in the floor, the cert requirements are fairly easy

If you drill holes etc in the body, you will need to make new anchorages, which depending on your skill level, can be quite challenging.

I'm putting mx5 seats in my escort and my question is, certwise, is it easier/cleaner to modify the original escort seat rails to suit the mx5 seats or the mx5 seat rails? I will be keeping the original mounting positions and holes, and wont be changing the original floor mounted belts.

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Last one from me. I'm fitting a rear seat in my escort van (original estate seat) which flips down when not in use. I need to make two supporting towers which hold the back rest in place when the seat is set up to be used, so it doesn't swing back or forth. There are two bars welded on the back of the seat above the wheel tub to work with.

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Do I need a locking latch on each tower? Or can I have a locking latch on one, and a plastic block to rest on, on the other?

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@ Clint, getting closer to some yearly progress on the car - in preparation for Cert/finishing it off.

Have driveshaft loop doubler plate inside, but would like to put the carpet in and do some other interior jobs, is photo's sufficient of the mounts - without/without a rule beside them. Or am I best to leave the carpet out? 

 

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How complicated is fitting airbag seats in a different car when doing the cert? Liking the idea of some Audi seats up front in my vy commodore so i can have heat for my bad back in winter.

Providing i can get the equipment talking correctly and not fire myself through the windscreen has been considered.

 

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