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bmxnz11

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Everything posted by bmxnz11

  1. I couldn't see anything obvious with why the steering shafts weren't lining up so I ended up enlongating the hole in the firewall. This also gave me a chance to change the mounting design. The steering column is mounted to the firewall via a round bush housed in a bracket and bolted to the firewall on the cabin side via 2x 5mm screws, nuts welded on the firewall on the engine bay side. The engine bay side looks bare and had no real seal. I had a spare bracket and bush, so I cut the welded nuts off and attached the spare bracket and bush up the column from the engine bay side and bolted it all together, including the standard bracket on the inside, with 8mm bolts. Original Bracket added to the firewall Old vs new steering uni bush And I've started on making new brake lines. Austin princess calipers and rear cylinders are metric, flexi lines and brake booster are imperial.
  2. I don't have a lathe so I carefully cleaned up the shaft using using die grinder and a flap wheel, checking it as I went. I had removed enough material that the bush would snuggly fit over the shaft and move. Success. Then I couldnt work out why it was such as effort to fit into the steering colum. It would only go half way down. It's hard to see but the end of the shaft is slightly tappered. 39mm tappered down to 38.5mm. Out came the die grinder and flap wheel again. I enlarged the internal shaft to accept the new bush and we were away laughing. Until... ...I installed it all in the van and the ends of the steering shafts don't line up. Faaaaark. I will need to enlarge the hole on the firewall and move the shaft up. I thought the assembly was supposed to be the easy part.
  3. Much like the steering rack, I had disassembled 3 steering columns all in various states and all slightly different. One column shaft was longer then the others, one column and housing has absolutely been munched by the steering lock mechanism and none really shared the exact same internals, with different springs and spacers etc. I used a good short column and the best housing and had them painted. I started to reassemble it last night but hit a road bump. The new top bush, which replaces the older style bearing, is too narrow in the ID to turn freely on the column shaft. The bottom replacement works fine. I'll need to trim down the OD of the shaft or increase the ID in the bush. Even with grease and vice grips it didn't want to turn. old bearing and new bush
  4. I couldn't find my bonnet cable clip so pinched it off the blue van and made a replacement. Could have used a cable tie or p clip but because it's visible I didn't want it to look too out of place. I'll have the old black one stripped and anodized.
  5. Thanks to the great ideas here I had a new plan of attack. I drilled a hole beside the tap and cleaned the area. I could see through the new hole that the nut had 3 factory welds holding it on. Must have been very fatigued/rusted because it didnt require much force for it break away. Tried to plug weld/tac the nut on and managed to get a strong enough tac to take the tap out. I decided I wanted two different spots of weld on the nut. Unfortunately the first weld broke off when drilling the second hole but thankfully I had a screw in place just in case. New hole, new weld. Accidently welded too much of the screw so it required quite a bit of cutting and grinding to remove it in one piece. Required a lot of concentration to avoid the raised stamped areas in the panel. Ended up nicking the top coat once. Cleaned the area again with the die grinder, put in another screw but this time insulated it with copper wiring which worked a treat. Ground it all flat and this time it looked much better. The weld had penetrated and filled in the holes. Best part yet, the bracket covers the entire worked area. Easy for these small jobs to chew up time. Just need to keep looking at the big picture.
  6. Cheers. Yeah feeling much better after hearing the suggestions here. The tap will make a nice earth strap too....
  7. Makes perfect sense thanks. I was thinking of elongating the hole on the bonnet catch to fit over the riv nut if there's enough meat. This way it'll sit flat and the washer on the screw should cover it. As beens suggested here, I'll try drilling a couple of small holes and welding the existing nut in place first.
  8. Didn't think of this. The hook brackets large enough to hide any of the working so could get away with a touch up job.
  9. Looks the goods and the bonnet hook would hide it. Trouble is the tap was halfway through the nut when it let go so I haven't been able to separate the tap from the nut. Might be able to make something to get behind and lock it in place/thin bent spanner.
  10. I was tapping some threads in the engine bay, getting it ready for fittings, then this happened. It's the under side of the bonnet where the hook is attached. Nuts welded on the inside but this one decided it had had enough and decided to spin. Fuck. There's no access to the cavity behind to access to the nut so I'm going to have to cut it open, peel it back, weld the nut back on, stitch weld the panel back on and re paint the entire front section of the underside. Hard to see but agin the nut didn't line up with the hole very well when it was "welded" on in the factory and when I was cutting the thread it was hard up against the bonnet panel which probably caused it to break.
  11. I don't know if it's a ford, late 70s or a commercial vehicle thing but I get the impression this van was thrown together quickly in the factory. Everytime I attach something to the van, it has to be slightly modified to fit. A bit of filing here, a shim there. These are the holes for the brake booster bracket to attach to the engine bay wheel guard. There's a plate welded on the outside which is supposed to line up with the hole. This is typical with alot of the double skin holes. I even had to modify the bonnet stay so it would work in both upright and tucked away positions.
  12. Sway bar and new control arms assembled. Poly bushes and new fittings. Even went so far as making my own tab washers years ago. Really getting picky on certain parts on this now, including all the different types of fittings. Have chosen to go with mostly anodized gear. Have offered up calipers and the brake booster gear in preparation of making all new lines. I'll remove the booster at a later date and repaint as it's quite flat compared it's surrounding parts. Also assembled the pedal box which I stripped down and painted some time ago. New bushes and pads etc. Feels like xmas unboxing parts all these refurbished parts.
  13. V2. Find an unbent pair of the correct struts, strip, paint and reassemble. New shocks and fittings. The original rubber from the strut tops have been removed and replaced with poly. The 2 different strut bodies but look very similar. The correct mk2 escort in the foreground and the unknown in front. The tube diameter, caliper spacing, disk shield spacing, stub axles and heights all measures exactly the same.
  14. Shiiiit. Started to assemble the struts and thought hmm that spring perch looks a bit different. Compared it to the other spares I had and could see what I had refurbished and rebuilt were not escort struts, though they came out if a mk2 escort. The most obvious tell being the insert tube is not centre on the spring perch. The other tell is when I put the spring in, it didn't sit flat and upright. The spring perch doesn't sit horizontal, it's on quite an angle. Anyone know what these came out of? Confirmed mk2 escort struts. Looking down the centre of the tube. Spring perch angle Not mk2 escort struts Looks like I'll end up strip and repaint the correct pair I have.
  15. Cheers for that. I've seen the generic spacers in the second link before but I wasn't sure how secure they would be.
  16. Cheers for the quick reply. I'll look for a more appropriate tubing
  17. Rebuilt and assembled the rear brakes. New cylinders, shoes and spring kits. Started working the front suspension and connecting parts. I used new and used parts from my spares to rebuild the steering rack. The manual required 2.8kg of force to move the steering arms. 2.8kg of sand on the arm... ...2.8kg of sand on the floor. Yep, kit moved. Drilled, tapped in a new locking brass rod and penned the metal over to hold the rod in place. All assembled and has been thrown on the van with new poly bushes, tie rod ends and control arms. Not in the photo but I've pressed out the control arm to sway bar bushes and will use some new poly ones. New wheel bearing kits in the hubs. Hope to have the legs on in the next couple days.
  18. Slipping a bit of garden hose on the top and bottom coils of lowering springs to take up the tiniest bit of play when the struts are unloaded. Still fit securely into the bottom and top cups and are captive. Is this a problem come wof or cert time?
  19. Last but not least I made a hub tub for the engine block out of a drum and a hot water element. I had my block, rod, caps, rocker gear, pcv valves, oil pick ups and odd bits of hardware brewing with caustic soda (washing powder) for 5days. No after photos as it was dark when it all got pulled out, but it all worked really well.
  20. I opened up the petrol tank which has been sitting around for awhile. To my suprise it was like brand new inside. Cleaned it inside and out, and installed. The fuel filler neck was a bit odd. It didn't quite sit flush to the side of the van. I ended up removing some of the floor with a die grinder to lower the fuel filler and get it all lined up. Potentially it was this poor from factory. New gasket, a lick of paint and its done. From the outside, the fuel cap covers the entire filler neck face. I went so far as to even replace the fuel cap screws which hold the locking tongue on from self tappers to stainless caps.
  21. With most parts prepped, I've started to reassemble parts and attach them to the van. I've purchased alot of new parts locally and from the UK, including all new nolathane bushes. I've always replaced the old hardware with new stainless or zinc where possible. The mk2 van is actually a mk1 from the windscreen back and uses both imperial and metric, so requires a bit of extra thinking. I made up some spacers for the rear springs and played around at home and set up a little zinc plating station.
  22. Slowly been sorting out the front and rear suspension and steering components. I pulled apart the 3x steering racks I had and have used the best parts to build one. Everything has been stripped to bare metal and painted in 2k.
  23. I ended up repairing the heater fan resister with a new board and 1 new pin. Tested the heater box core, had to straighten the pipe ends and fix 3 small holes. All reassembled. Have made a few odd parts as I go along such as new tab washers for the front hubs.
  24. Cheers man. Definitely more fun on the road then in the garage!
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