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Also - roughly what does a cert for my modification level cost these days?

 

 

Ahh, thanks KK. 

I was trawling thru post to see if any one else has asked for pricing but couldnt find one. 

 

Clint, I would also like to know whats the cost of getting a car certified for engine and suspension (nothing adjustable) mods

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ok so i'm about to re-register a car and it has this here rusty bit;

 

img0419mfk.jpg
 
img0420ir.jpg
 

its the boot seal holder thing. Once i fix it will it need a repair cert or nah? i thought that being near the latch it might do..

 

I was planning to run the car through the inspection first and then go through and fix whatever else it needs. Or would i be best to fix the rust first before taking it in, and hope they don't notice its been repaired, to aviod the need for a repair cert?

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hey Clint,

any thoughts appreciated. 

 

 

thoughts?

 

well, I always wonder why the larger diameter darker colour nose hairs just pull right out with a minimum amount of pain, while the tiny little white ones hurt like they are attached to the bottom of my brain stem when i pull those out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

oh, you meant about fiat brake caliper brackets, didnt you.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

they look fine if they are made of steel and they are not welded together

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Hello Clint - long time lurker, first time poster on this site..

 

I have the inevitable driveshaft loop questions.

 

My Commy is getting the ol W55 and it's a bit shorter than the standard Commy box.

 

Now I'm going to need to put 2 driveshaft loops in - no more than 150mm from the front UJ and I presume no more than 150mm behind the CV joint after the hanger bearing.

.

Slight problem is it looks like that front one is going to either foul on the handbrake (which protrudes into the trans tunnel about right there) or I'll need to cut out this brace with the 4 bolts - the brace is removed in the pic. Can I use this brace as part of the front driveshaft loop or do I need to make one completely seperately?  i have certed cars with the brace replaced with a 50x5 strap with the loop off the top of it, bolt size needs to be 10mm or 3/8 so you need to drill out those 4 captive nuts and use nuts& bolts   this would be something to check with the certifier you are going to deal with to make sure he is happy with that way

Secondly the rear driveshaft loop is going to be about right about the very back of the rear footwell. I think I'll get away with that but does a CV joint require a driveshaft loop or is it only UJ's? yes that needs a loop as well, uj's cv's and rubber couplings in a shaft all have to have them

 

 

Also - roughly what does a cert for my modification level cost these days?

 

Your's in hearts and clubs. xox

 

KK

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Ahh, thanks KK. 

I was trawling thru post to see if any one else has asked for pricing but couldnt find one. 

 

Clint, I would also like to know whats the cost of getting a car certified for engine and suspension (nothing adjustable) mods

 

 

 retail prices=

basic cert, adjustable susp, wheels, minor mods  $480

wheel adaptors add $20

bolt in engine swap $560

eng swap with custom mounts $580-$600

exhaust cert $250

recheck fees $40-up

 

none of these are set in stone-sometimes its cheaper if the owner is helpful,  is a GC,  car is a minter etc

and its more expensive if the opposite applies, if it takes ages to get the inspection done, stuff like that

 

also all certifiers set their own pricing and it can vary from area to area

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ok so i'm about to re-register a car and it has this here rusty bit;

 

 
 

its the boot seal holder thing. Once i fix it will it need a repair cert or nah? i thought that being near the latch it might do..

 

I was planning to run the car through the inspection first and then go through and fix whatever else it needs. Or would i be best to fix the rust first before taking it in, and hope they don't notice its been repaired, to aviod the need for a repair cert?

usually any rust repairs need a repair cert, and the vin guys are pretty good at spotting repairs.

 

Its a gamble,  if you fix and paint it and it needs a repair cert you may have to strip it back again for the repair certifier to sign it off, had this happen to a customer with a nicely painted HQ ute, needed to be stripped back checked and repainted again, cost the guy a LOT to get it back how it was to start with

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who is decent to cert airbags or hydros?

Paul Sattler told my mate wont cert hydros or bags anymore as its too much hassle for the $$$ he gets.

Barry Aikehurst who i was going to get to do my conversion cant do bags or hydros..

 

Is there anyone in Hamilton/Auckland at a push that is decent enough to not be difficult to deal with?

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