triumphrod Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 got a viva estate and just wondering do i need to get side mirror for wof or is my rear view quite efficient enough for them woffers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durty Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Rear view only should be sweet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoKer Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof/general/vision/rear-view-mirrors Specifically http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof/general/vision/rear-view-mirrors#table541 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 thanks cletus, yup looking for some in a brake upgrade kit for the 64 thought id check before i buy. Keltik, good ill buy it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spangleR Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Looking at getting a set of coil overs like these for my x61 but questioning getting cert for them, as its a ?McPherson? setup and the single bolt into the body probably wasn't designed to hold the weight of the whole car through the springs? And can get a set for the front but I'm assuming I would need some sort paper work with them saying they're built to some sort of standard? Rear setup im looking at: http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b143840667 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 if that replaces the rear shock ie the weight of the vehicle now goes thru the shock mount- might be possible with strengthening, i havnt seen it done on your sort of car only lighter stuff like starlets, corollas etc. IMO from what i can see in the pic they look like a bit of a cockup anyway, that spring would coil bind at that adjustment height, looks like lowering the spring platform would result in it being uncaptive so you would need keeper springs, cant see any bumpstops unless they are up in the mount tube thing but then they wouldnt be doing anything. i dont rate bilsteins much either, i have found a few issues with them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael0008 Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz340/michael0008/cutty_zpsacb06be9.jpg http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz340/michael0008/cuttystyle_zps60542fa1.jpg http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz340/michael0008/cuttystyle1_zps6b7f67f5.jpg ok cut the front off like so am i able to do the above (non certificated welder)any size thin tube steel ok?and how much are structural cert normally for doing the above?cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spangleR Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Thanks for that, was more just questioning the design. Not a fan of bilsteins, seen other people run them in speedway and never seem to work properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 Hey man So, I have bought a length of flat steel to make some loops but I cant seem to find any real details on what you can and cant do Can I make the loop in two pieces and what size bolts? I have made this diagram to show what I was planning on doing Blue is the drive shaft Black is the loop in two pieces green is the floor and red are the bolts. However, this is the plan without having a look under my car I have another option, as the crown is solid chassis, if i make the loop in two pieces, and bolt halfs together with two bolts, would i need to use to bolts at each end also? Pink are the chassis rails And when you say two bolts each side, can they be side by side? as in across the width of the steel as opposed to the length? Sorry for all the questions I just want to do the job once haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 and also is this sheet still valid? http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_09-2011_Drive-shaft_Safety_Loop_Requirement_Clarification.pdf As if it is, It would make the mounting of my loop much easier if the length from the universal to the loop is able to be max of 250mm As 150 is right on a welded in cross member that is not going to work at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz340/michael0008/cutty_zpsacb06be9.jpg http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz340/michael0008/cuttystyle_zps60542fa1.jpg http://i841.photobucket.com/albums/zz340/michael0008/cuttystyle1_zps6b7f67f5.jpg ok cut the front off like so am i able to do the above (non certificated welder) any size thin tube steel ok? and how much are structural cert normally for doing the above? cheers can be done on a pre frontal impact compliant vehicle you cant make it weaker, or significantly stronger than it was originally cost wise, depends on what else is modified and who is certing it, there isnt a set price Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 Hey man HELLO ALLAN So, I have bought a length of flat steel to make some loops SPLENDID but I cant seem to find any real details on what you can and cant do Can I make the loop in two pieces YES YOU MAY and what size bolts? MINIMUM 10MM OR 3/8 BOLTS X4 TO ATTACH A LOOP TO THE VEHICLE, 2 EACH SIDE I have made this diagram to show what I was planning on doing GOOD WORK. THE TOP PART OF THE LOOP CAN BE BOLTED OR WELDED TO THE BOTTOM BIT SO YOU DONT HAVE TO DOUBLE UP THE LONG BITS. IF YOU ARE BOLTING DIRECTLY TO THE CHASSIS YOU COULD HAVE THE BOLTS SIDE BY SIDE BUT IF YOU ARE GOING THRU THE FLOOR THEN SPACE THEM APART A BIT MORE. IF YOUR CHASSIS RAILS ARE FAR APART OR LOW TO THE GROUND I WOULD BOLT IT TO THE FLOOR,THE SHORTER THE WHOLE THING IS THE STRONGER IT WILL BE. USE A 100X50 PIECE OF STEEL TO MAKE A 'WASHER' LIKE IN YOUR DIAGRAM AND ALL WILL BE JUST SWELL. Blue is the drive shaft Black is the loop in two pieces green is the floor and red are the bolts. However, this is the plan without having a look under my car I have another option, as the crown is solid chassis, if i make the loop in two pieces, and bolt halfs together with two bolts, would i need to use to bolts at each end also? Pink are the chassis rails And when you say two bolts each side, can they be side by side? as in across the width of the steel as opposed to the length? Sorry for all the questions I just want to do the job once haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 and also is this sheet still valid? http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_09-2011_Drive-shaft_Safety_Loop_Requirement_Clarification.pdf As if it is, It would make the mounting of my loop much easier if the length from the universal to the loop is able to be max of 250mm As 150 is right on a welded in cross member that is not going to work at all It is still valid, if you have a 2 piece shaft then its usually no good because they are short sections, the loop needs to be at the front of the shaft. that 150mm measurement is only the MAX distance from the u-joint, you can go closer to it, that might make it easier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 Oh having a look at the under side of the car it is still very much forward of the center point of the shaft and with the design I will have, the drive shaft wont drop lower than the chassis rails anyway thanks mate Edit, also clint you were in a dream I had last night Along with the QCR Steelies and assorted other OS members Was very good dream 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris.QCR Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 Woo QCR!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldturkey Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 Is it legal to modify the mounting points on a set of struts, like I want to remove (cut off) the lower part of my OEM shock where it bolts to the knuckle and weld it to another shock. If it is allowed then would it require a cert (if it was obvious enough to get picked up). It may sound odd but it's the simplest option in my situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 you can, depends on the design as to how it would have to be done. Whatever you do, it would need to be certified. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/37800-welded-strut-how-to/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyfive Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 Hii clint! What is your opinion on redrilling hubs? Ie 4 stud to 6 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 I GOT 99 PAGES, CERT PROBLEMS ON EACH ONE Redrilling 4 to 6 would be fine if theres enough thickness under the stud head 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyfive Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 Cool, if I do get to this point I'll hunt out a set of hubs and see what kinda meat is behind there. I'm guessing the general rule is 'Not allowed to be thinner than it is where the studs are meant to be?' Cause I'm pretty sure it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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