Jump to content

For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


si

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

What about the rest of the toytuning stuff??

A friend has dropped a fair bit of coin on some adjustable castor/camber/bottom arms for his wife's 710 sedan.

I'm no expert, but it looks to be very high quality stuff.

But yeah, the welded bits on those adjusties pictured aabove do kinda set off alarm bells.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^ there a plenty of cars with T3 gear getting around, I'm sure they will be fine Bart, its the welding to cast steel that is the problem with some parts. 

 

 

I thought those t3 coilovers were just some groun control perches welded onto a factory strut? but then looking at those pics what's that welded brace to the stub axle/knuckle? Maybe they have shortened them and welded to the knuckle.

 

Anyway surely its cheaper and easier to shorten your strut down, weld on some adjustable perches and buy some nice shocks. At least you know it will be legal and should save you some money.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So i was working at a workshop this week.

They said something about having to fail a wof check on needing a cert before you could actually get one.

Is there any truth to this.

Oh and how do i book my piece in with you Clint. And where do you do the checks.

With any luck ill be ready in the next couple weeks..

wof check is not required.

some certifiers ask for a wof checksheet before they will do an inspection-

 

its because part of a cert check is to check all the wof items like lights belts etc etc, as well as the parts that have been modified- if there is a wof sheet less than 14 days old then we dont have to check those things.

 

personally i think its a bit of a cop-out to rely on someone else to check that stuff and ask a customer to spend another $40 or whatever on an inspection they are going to fail and possibly not get everything done before the wof recheck date.

plus i always check safety related stuff regardless, you would be surprised what some wof inspectors miss- things like worn tie rod ends and perished brake hoses are quite common- i dont want to be doing a road test and something shit itself cause i relied on someone else to say it was ok

 

as far as getting hold of me to make a booking, give me a ring during the week- 0274 522 049 mention you are from here so you get your complimentary mint slice*

 

 

 

*while stocks last

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all,

 

The chevette fuel tank is pretty small (roughly 30L methinks), so I was considering swapping it for a slightly larger looking gemini wagon.

Looking at the space under the boot tray, there is plenty of space for the gemini tank and then some.

 

What are the rules/laws on expanding fuel tanks?

e.g. if I get the tank split in half and get a band or box of steel welded in to make the tank bigger?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Hey man HELLO ALLAN

 

So, I have bought a length of flat steel to make some loops SPLENDID

 

but I cant seem to find any real details on what you can and cant do

Can I make the loop in two pieces YES YOU MAY

 

and what size bolts? MINIMUM 10MM OR 3/8 BOLTS X4 TO ATTACH A LOOP TO THE VEHICLE, 2 EACH SIDE

 

I have made this diagram to show what I was planning on doing  GOOD WORK. THE TOP PART OF THE LOOP CAN BE BOLTED OR WELDED TO THE BOTTOM BIT SO YOU DONT HAVE TO DOUBLE UP THE LONG BITS. IF YOU ARE BOLTING DIRECTLY TO THE CHASSIS YOU COULD HAVE THE BOLTS SIDE BY SIDE BUT IF YOU ARE GOING THRU THE FLOOR THEN SPACE THEM APART A BIT MORE. IF YOUR CHASSIS RAILS ARE FAR APART OR LOW TO THE GROUND I WOULD BOLT IT TO THE FLOOR,THE SHORTER THE WHOLE THING IS THE STRONGER IT WILL BE. USE A 100X50 PIECE OF STEEL TO MAKE A 'WASHER' LIKE IN YOUR DIAGRAM AND ALL WILL BE JUST SWELL.

 

driveshaftloop_zps78e30969.jpg

 

Blue is the drive shaft

Black is the loop in two pieces

green is the floor

and red are the bolts.

 

However, this is the plan without having a look under my car

I have another option, as the crown is solid chassis, if i make the loop in two pieces, and bolt halfs together with two bolts, would i need to use to bolts at each end also?

 

driveshaftloop2_zps38ed978c.jpg

Pink are the chassis rails

 

And when you say two bolts each side, can they be side by side? as in across the width of the steel as opposed to the length?

Sorry for all the questions

I just want to do the job once haha

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all,

 

The chevette fuel tank is pretty small (roughly 30L methinks), so I was considering swapping it for a slightly larger looking gemini wagon.

Looking at the space under the boot tray, there is plenty of space for the gemini tank and then some.

 

What are the rules/laws on expanding fuel tanks?

e.g. if I get the tank split in half and get a band or box of steel welded in to make the tank bigger?

ordinarily, doing that would be fine if done properly.

only problem in your case, is the tank is inside the passenger compartment i believe? which is fine if it is factory, but as soon as you modify it, it has to comply with LVV rules- then you would have to seal the tank area off from the passenger compartment

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quick question about my ke70.

At the moment i have extended LCAs which have just been cut and an extra 25mm welded in, then strengthened underneath with some flat plate. Also have some shortened knuckles. 

Basically, im wanting to know if they can be certified if provided with a crack testing certificate? Or is there no way they can be certified?

Cheers,

Kurt

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ordinarily, doing that would be fine if done properly.

only problem in your case, is the tank is inside the passenger compartment i believe? which is fine if it is factory, but as soon as you modify it, it has to comply with LVV rules- then you would have to seal the tank area off from the passenger compartment

gotcha.  Yeah the tank is in the boot underneath a panel (similar to most spare wheel wells in sedans), the panel is held down with 3 screws, is this considered sealed by LVV standards?

chevettetank.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quick question about my ke70.

At the moment i have extended LCAs which have just been cut and an extra 25mm welded in, then strengthened underneath with some flat plate. Also have some shortened knuckles. 

Basically, im wanting to know if they can be certified if provided with a crack testing certificate? Or is there no way they can be certified?

Cheers,

Kurt

mod LCA could be ok if its mild steel channel type arm,done well, TIG'd, crack tested. however, you would still have to comply with the camber rule of no more than 1/2 degree over oe spec unless its a motorsport vehicle with authority card.

shortened knuckles will be a no go if they are cut and welded cast or forged.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

gotcha.  Yeah the tank is in the boot underneath a panel (similar to most spare wheel wells in sedans), the panel is held down with 3 screws, is this considered sealed by LVV standards?

chevettetank.jpg

not really, should be fume proof, that bit by the spare wheel would need sealing up

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Clint - long time lurker, first time poster on this site..

 

I have the inevitable driveshaft loop questions.

 

My Commy is getting the ol W55 and it's a bit shorter than the standard Commy box.

 

Now I'm going to need to put 2 driveshaft loops in - no more than 150mm from the front UJ and I presume no more than 150mm behind the CV joint after the hanger bearing.

.

Slight problem is it looks like that front one is going to either foul on the handbrake (which protrudes into the trans tunnel about right there) or I'll need to cut out this brace with the 4 bolts - the brace is removed in the pic. Can I use this brace as part of the front driveshaft loop or do I need to make one completely seperately?

Secondly the rear driveshaft loop is going to be about right about the very back of the rear footwell. I think I'll get away with that but does a CV joint require a driveshaft loop or is it only UJ's?

 

IMG_5016.jpg

 

Also - roughly what does a cert for my modification level cost these days?

 

Your's in hearts and clubs. xox

 

KK

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have just realised my car has class b rego? What does this mean ?

http://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/factsheets/27/exempt-vehicles-from-registration-and-licensing.html

Damn, smoked by Beave.

Basically someone has put it on the wrong reg, it used to be a trick to pay less, they changed definitions and a few rules with it a while ago. I had to change my R30 from B to A.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...