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Showing content with the highest reputation on 15/12/24 in all areas
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It worked. Discovered my dusty old practice amp is an Ashton too... It made noise, and the tuner worked, if a little rudimentary... But the action needed sorting, and I wasn't happy with the flimsy screws into plastic holding the unit to the body. There's a bit of extra tension with the bendy surround mod, so I drilled out and used 3mm black machine screws. Much more secure... The new nut was way too high, so pulled it and sanded similarly to the saddle, supposed to have roughly 1/2mm clearance at the first fret. Before/after pics... And all done, re-strung and whole thing looks much better, and seems playable, now just down to the operator...9 points
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9 points
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6 points
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6 points
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The L200 has a great story behind it. Our dad brought it in the 90s to use as delivery vehicle. He did a lot of rust repairs and put a flat deck on it and painted it the company colours at the time. He didn't use it enough and sold it to our grandad. He then kept well maintained and garaged. Used it for light duties around his lifestyle block. Eventually sold it to luke before he even got license. Then luke and I painted the cab. Luke then built the new flat deck and painted the chassis @Lukel200 start a build thread.5 points
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Was awesome seeing this run! Love it how it has full interior etc, towing a trailer on way there, does its drag day stuff, then back to regular duties. An awesome all rounder. You've done a great job.5 points
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Yesterday was such an awesome day. My pb was a blistering 18.6 at 71mph. Drove down with the family did 14 runs down the strip and drove back home without any problems. A highlight getting to race Kieran in the demio and my younger brother luke in the L200. The reliable honda was the last one on track. Thank you to everyone that organized and volunteered. Would definitely recommend putting this event on your calendar next year. I will do a more detailed post later regarding what I did for prep for the drags. Prep like no other. Edit: 15* runs found another slip under my seat.4 points
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You might find a high stall will make traction worse- if the rpm is higher, that will put it in an rpm range where it's making more power, which if you're borderline on traction, will make it worse In my opinion, traction is the number one thing to get right with drag racing, as without it, you cannot use whatever hp you have to its full potential You might be better to do some tyre /suspension tuning, get your traction issues sorted first before spending $ on a converter - lsd and 15 inch tyres with a decent soft sidewall would be my suggestion I didn't really get to watch much racing but it seemed like it makes boost pretty early in the rev range3 points
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3 points
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Sent it on 9-10 psi all day I wish i took my 275's as the slicks were still quite skatey when it came up on boost first run it felt like it spun for ever. As soon as i turned it up it blew the drivers manifold gasket didn't hurt times but it sounded bit shit. Still best fun ever in a $600 dollar car I've had. So much potential for more power too I just got chicken and wanted to get car home running but took 3 passengers so everyone was happy. Favourite Photo taken By Roman Dave.3 points
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Sorry to everyone that I have blue balled with this project! Over the period of god knows how long it's been so far without any cool stuff happening. I have not yet made good on my promise of doing zillions of rpm with a shitbox wrecker engine. In V6 variant at least. I've been putting in some solid hours to get things finished to try get to the drags. But tonight I've come to see I'm not going to make it. If it was just about getting the car finished enough, might be feasible with some long nights. However it turns out I need an MSNZ license as well as a log book in order to race without wof/reg. I've been going down this road over last few days to try organize it. I paid $70 to join a car club, which is a prerequisite to applying for a license. However it was then was going to be another ~140ish bucks for a license that might not arrive in time. So combined with some extra expenses to get car in a drivable state I'm probably looking at $7-800 I need to pull out of my ass in a hurry. My bank balance got fairly well emptied a week or two ago when the neighbors dog tried to eat our cat. Then the cat crunched my finger when I picked it up. So big vet bill for the cats injuries, and a week on antibiotics and a day or 2 with bandages for me. So as exhausting as it has been pushing hard to get this done. For now I just have a rest. But it's really close to being drivable. Since last post: -Firewall finished -Put crossmember and steering rack back in -fixed gearbox leak (loose bolt) -fixed engine oil leak -finished exhaust manifolds on both sides, down to a finished flange. So they can stay in for good while I make rest of the exhaust. -Got motor and box back in -TA63 booster fitted -Interior started going back in -Started on battery tray -ITBs properly fitted and bolted/sealed up -Exhaust manifolds on properly with gaskets etc, all bolted up properly -Some wiring stuff sorted -2nd wideband wired up -radiator back in -front of car back together -Motor fired up again! My collector flares out to 2.25" or 2.5" (cant remember) but then you can see down where the flange ends up, thats where it flares out to 3". So does this mean it's an F1 car now? haha. The last weld I did on this pipe was the one on the rear of the 3d printed part, and turned out quite nice compared to some earlier efforts. Also, although I'm no welding expert by any means. Holy shit, it feels like cheat mode being able to weld indoors. So much easier when you're not battling a mild breeze on the driveway. haha.3 points
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2 points
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May have had more luck on my street tyres but been a taller sidewall it would put way more load on everything and i was worried about breaking the Transmission. I'm dead keen to give roll racing a go as it would be in its element as is. From the drive to and from the track towing, What a tow rig! My trailer isn't big but it's bloody heavy and tall engine just cruises along boost is there as you need it without the trans changing down. I did my fastest run of day with 2x 12" subs in the boot and the spare tyre and took a bite out of my toasted sandwich from Pokeno bacon on return road after the run and that's the best part of day for me. Second best part of day is people bloody loved it in the pits, nothing but positive comments from people with cars i thought were way more impressive.2 points
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2 points
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In the same vein, I brought a CNC plasma at the start of the year. In order to get them running really well/cutting clean you need dry air, I went over the top but it has paid dividends in quality (just like painting). I have a really old 3ph compressor hard lined through 2" pipe throughout the factory (id say it's the original compressor that was fitted to the building in 1978 - an old sewing factory). So the whole manifold is like a giant tank, I'm unsure how big but would be at least 300-400l total incl the tank. The compressor runs for a solid 10 minutes or so on startup so generates plenty of heat and moisture. I brought a couple of cheap aliex 230v auto drains, I think they were about $20 each. I put one on the bottom of the compressor tank and another on a low point in the factory pipework, they drain every 15 minutes for a 5 second burst. I never have to think about draining my compressor/system. Ever. I then run a water trap on the inlet side of a $400 refrigerator dryer I picked up off tm (score- a new one is about $2500) I very rarely have to drain the trap on the inlet side to the refrigerated dryer. The tip life on my plasma suggests it's good and dry. The only other thing I could do better to get better air is a dessicant type filter post refrigerator. I painted my digger with enamel and it came up pretty ace. I'm stoked with having nice air, it's a really worthwhile investment I reckon.1 point
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Very nice man. You're a luthier Harry!1 point
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I think my biggest issue was with the helmet on i couldn't hear the engine as im quite deaf anyway and I couldn't look at the dash as it wanted to squirm around. Real weird power delivery nothing for 500rpm then everything all at once if I had all the power It feels like I could peddle it better. It makes 5psi at 2000rpm but 10psi at 2600rpm.1 point
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Awesome to meet you guys, both of those rides are stunning1 point
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Realistically I need a larger stall than what I have I regret not going to a 25-2800 stall but $$$ after everything was tight but it made a night and day difference to my car with the cam combo ect as I had a number if drivability issues ect. My tuner said my car for some reasons idle tune ect was one of the hardest hes had despite having done the same combo ect1 point
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Haha gran turismo 2 irl. Sorry I didnt realize that was you at the start. We could have chatted about kingcab's. You did a great job of waving everyone to the line.1 point
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Logo vs demio battles were the highlights of the day for me haha1 point
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Not the guy in Auckland named Louni? That offers some rather cheap 4l60 rebuilds a mate of mine who did my trans had a horror story or two of peoples trans that had a very short life due to rebuilds not really being rebuilds and some very suspect reassembly. He was basically rebuilding them for what a reputable full rebuild kit costs so you have to wonder what you get for the $$.1 point
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^ That's pretty wood... Guitar renovation 2, parts arrived. Installing where the existing tuner hole was meant it wasn't in the flattest part of the body, so I disassembeled the EQ unit to get the faceplate off, and bent it up after softening in hot water to get the required 'S' shape... And the combined connector/strap button needed installed. I wasn't happy with the exposed wiring so added a bit of heat shrink... Then just fished the wires through, the connector and a braided piezo pickup you install under the saddle, through a 2.5mm hole near the bass string. This means the saddle must be trimmed around 2mm, I just sanded this down on a flat surface. It's definitely real bone... Then threw some old strings on to check operation...1 point
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Well, I lied. I didn't fit the springs the next day. The old rubber spring insulators were trash, so I ordered some new ones from the Sunbeam car club spares dept. I had bought some Mustang 2 QA1 coil overs to fit as someone I know fitted them to his Sunbeam Tiger (same front X member). Not sure how he achieved it as it was going to take some work for them to work. So I have used the shocks anyway. They would normally need extensions on them to increase their length but because I have lowered the front, they are ok. Now I have adjustable front shocks as well, which I have set at halfway for now. I will see how I go with the photos. For some reason unknown to me now when I download photos from my phone instead of being downloaded directly to pictures on my laptop they now go through dropbox which is being a proper PITA. Directly from my ph they are large and I can only attach one. Only one of the pics I took downloaded through dropbox which I could resize.1 point
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14.1 something at 100mph plus best of day I've taken subs out and will run a couple more runs at same boost see if im able to crack a 13. Did 14.6 as is full street mode after taking trailer off bacon and egg sandwich on passenger seat. Took a bit to soften up drag slicks. Got an exhaust leak but whatever it doesn't seem to effect it much1 point
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Nothing for weeks and 3pm i decided to smash this together have had the 205 60 13's in roof for at least 9 years someone gave them to me from here look pretty sweet on the galvanised modgies haha the tyre shop dude rolled his eyes when I told him white letters out. Anyway if it rains or is sunny this thing can be shelter I'll throw some extra tools etc in it and i can throw stuff out of car in it. Car tows really well I've not towed with it since I Turbo'd it. See you all tomorrow1 point
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I hope kitty is doing OK now. Engine sounds mean. Take your time and just enjoy the process. There will be other drag days.1 point
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Engine sounds hektik man. One thing I learned in the last couple years is to just let yourself off the hook (aka forgive yourself but that sounds pretty lame) and restart the counter on whatever you're focusing on. Takes a weight off your shoulders and lets you spend the time to do things right.1 point
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See you all tomorrow. It has a tiny weep that evaporates before forming a drip..... it'll do im to scared to touch it, i resorted to double heatshrinking the bolt thread taping it to death and a fibre washer as its an 8mm bolt in a 10mm hole seems very dumb and floppy its another days problem ill still bring water though Just need to get some 100 octane and pack trailer and start to relax. I've got a tune with the rev limit mapped to 6400rpm and a decent amount of timing pulled so I can go maddog and up the boost to 12-15psi if I all the stars aline.1 point
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Just waiting for repco to open so I can grab a few supplies. Waterpump gasket delete partial success have small leak from one bolt that goes into Water so im going to fit a fibre washer and o rings and hope for best @zach_munce suggested just weld it together at this point im starting to consider it as an option. Anyway to distract myself I Fitted the Tein adjustable rear shocks @jakesae101 sent me originals have gone a bit flacid.1 point
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1 point
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Guitar renovation. Last century I used to play a bit, completely hopeless now but wanting to try again I attempted to set up my crappy old acoustic properly, got all enthusiastic and shouted it a new bridge, saddle etc but the truss rod thread stripped just as I was getting it right, so I swore a bit - and have been looking out for a decent'ish used one since. Saw this advertised at a charity shop, Ashton D25, scratched, rusty, 2 strings so grabbed it as a cheap project... [Reviews state the D25 is a 'cheap, nice sounding full-sized beginner/muckaround guitar' so perfect for my needs] I re-strung it to check things and apart from needing some new parts it actually played OK, neck was straight, strings at good playing height etc, so I ordered a bunch of bits from Aliexpress, then stripped it right down and gave it a good clean. Can't do much about the giant scratch on the body but might try to hide it later... The Ali machine heads fitted perfectly, sort of wished I'd got the black option now though for full blackout look, but they look far better than the grotty old ones... And the new bone nut and saddle looked to be well made. The plastic ones were worn out, (nut had actually crumbled at the 6th string and I'd filed a temporary notch to test it) also got some fancy bridge pins... Biggest issue was the cheap in-built tuner, that was missing the battery holder clip. I bodged it up and it still worked but the cover/clips are always going missing and are unobtainable, so bought a combined tuner/equalizer/pickup unit to turn it into an electro-acoustic... This is still on the way, so I gambled that the online templates will match what I actually get, and cut the hole while I had it apart... Hopefully this arrives in the next few days and I can see how things go together, bit of wiring/fettling to do when I get it. It won't be fancy, but I should have a useable geetar for around $100 all up...1 point
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PowerThread3000 Also available in 3/4 impact , for those hard to tap threads. Just ask for a PowerThread60001 point
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Needed to fix a thread on the old vw but couldn't fit the usual tap handle, You can buy these but I have a lathe and the steel was free, took a while to figure out how to cut the inside part, then I overshot it a touch, tapped three M4 grubscrews to center it better, just used it and seemed to work well, I now have a bolted down battery in my car for the first time ever!1 point
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So I have been attempting to get the box back together, but it has taken 3 attempts so far; #1 - all the clusters back together, everything inserted and getting to put 5th gear on when I realised I was so intently following the written writup on Xweb that I had forgotten to put the actual gearshifting mech in because it wasnt part of the writup. Sigh, gently pull it apart and scrape off all the blue gasket poo. #2 - everything back together again but realising the there was some burring in one of the the detent ball holes and the now impossible to get out ball bearing was moving neither forwards nor backwards. Sigh, gently pull it apart, extract the ball and then scrape off all the blue gasket poo. #3 - slowly and methodically reassemble it all again, barely even referring to the writup cos there is now an element of familiarity with the process. I am still waiting for some axle seals, but apart from that its all done. Like the old box it has a tapered drain plug in a straight tapped hole, I think I will make a straight plug up so I dont split the case. Anyway there are very few pics of all this as it required much concentration.1 point
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1 point
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KP progress has slightly stalled due to a certain German tank entering our lives.... Picked her up from Welly and drove back the next day in convoy with @mk2marty Didnt miss a beat! M117 and............. 5 speed manual! Huge list of stuff to sort, need a better diff ratio as the current one is far too tall, so something out of a 280SE would be ideal. Needs AC sorting ASAP as its the family car. So if anyone knows of or has any W126/C126 parts please message me! Have a lot of things to source.1 point
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I sold my RGV the day before SYDS but because I am a Boomer have now got a 1980 bike to do this on.1 point
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The new front springs turned up today. I had cut 50mm off the original springs and welded the flat bit back on top of the coil so it sat in the perch reasonably well. I wasn’t going to increase the spring rate so all I had to do is give them the compressed height of the spring. Anyway I will fit them tomorrow and see how the car sits.1 point
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1 point
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I’ve found the rustoleum 2x coat stuff to be pretty good from Bunnings and pretty cheap as well.1 point
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Gas dowser. It blinks, it beeps. What more does a man need? Led at each end changes colour as each gas level rises, and the highest side blinks. It beeps a tone depending on average gas level, (warmer, cooler) to help localize source. I've realised the LPG sensor can be swapped out for ammonia, etc in the same footprint1 point
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That's an awesome weight! Goes to show how over weight the 3SGE Beams really is.1 point
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209kg all-up including gearbox is very impressive. Doubly so considering the block is big enough to stretch to 3.5l at least. Some other combos I've seen (as in, actually seen pictures of them on scales so I can tell what's included or not). Rover V8 3.5l carb and LT77: 221kg (not helped by 50kg gearbox, also not including headers as I haven't dug those out to weigh yet) BMW N52 and GS637BZ: 218.6kg BMW S54B32 and G420: 283kg Mazda 13B Renesis and 6-sp: 204kg Subaru FA20 and 6sp: 218kg My honker of a Jaguar I6 and G290: 325kg Also, could not be more accurate on the lack of garage space. Certainly feels like purgatory.1 point
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1 point
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An outlaw could make an arm that was not adjustable and put a nolathane/superpro/etc sticker on it so it looks like an aftermarket one but that would be illegal of course1 point
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Because I have a spicy brain I'm going to make you all suffer through 12 years of out of order updates based on which photos I find first. The diesel wagon comes factory with a larger s-series diff compared to the normal KE70, but this still wasn't going to cut the mustard because V8 and because I wanted an easy LSD option. I looked at options, first was G-Series Hilux, which I decided was heavier than what I needed, and settled on an F-Series. Now I needed to find one. Some of you may have heard of a Crown foamer called @sheepers, @Snoozin suggested I hit him up about a housing, and he supplied me with an MS85 drum brake diff. Somehow it made it's way to me and I turned it from a 5-stud, 3-link drum brake diff into a 4-stud, leaf sprung diff with AE92 FXGT calipers and S14 discs. We drew up some caliper adapters on paper and got them laser cut (I'll probably make better ones now that I have skills and shit) and an engineer a friend in Silverdale uses welded and redrilled the axles before I chucked some Landcruiser studs in them. The amount of time it took to get the axles done really makes me scared of breaking one, but we will see how we go. The LSD was bought off someone on Facebook and is an Altezza A-series torsen of a forgotten ratio, most likely 4.1, my same SIlverdale friend sent it to our mate Kayne Barrie for a bit of a freshen up and to be put into the Crown carrier. It's got a solid pinion spacer and he has really high standards and attention to detail, so I'm sure it will be a nice diff. I set about making some really ugly brake lines which was a learning experience and I have just recently found out how dumb I am, because they run through where the bump stop needs to land, so I'll probably redo them, maybe even with braided line if I get super lazy. Keep in mind I'm a computer guy, and that this is my first rear wheel drive car.1 point
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