holdenman

Thank goodness to good rear brakes or there would have been bikes on top of each other on the surprise water crossing, I could barely see the track at times as the rain ruts were so deep. But across the top just before lunch stop was a fun thats no rain rut... thats a skid mark from the massive rear tyre of a CT! that water crossing came up fast eh

Conservation award to Bart - For attacking the blackberries

Do your water testing for the coast https://www.facebook.com/reel/1302307817646063

I sold my RGV the day before SYDS but because I am a Boomer have now got a 1980 bike to do this on.

Put a safety strap around your neck, I mean nothing could go wrong!

I will be doing it again. I have a choice of bikes now but might sway with my little RV75

This has the typical misread speedo on the WOF check - Early Holdens (even with a trip meter) only had 5 digit + 1/10 so someone put the 50,000km as 500,000 but I will make sure it gets righted by the next one.

Unloaded some bits out of the boot and checked for rust, a bit of surface rust on a guard and on the metal plate for the tow bar so wire brushed and sprayed with rust treatment. I will vacuum out and wash clean once we get a sunny day. First stage accomplished, WOF and Rego done. The Marketplace engine and box I have in it turns out may be a series 2 engine which is perfect for boosting as it has the additional water and oil plugs. I read somewhere all the S2 blocks had bungs where the turbo That's a bugger as the one i I have prepped is series 1, at least I know exactly where to drill and tap the good block. I will start with a decent clean soon but removing the sub, amp and a Raptor Farad Capacitor? plus the spare parts has taken a bit of weight out. Not sure what i will do with sub as I will unlikely put it back.

I have been swatting up on various similar builds and I feel I have a basic grasp on the job at hand but I have a very skilled mate who is a top mechanic and race car engineer to help and give me general tips although he has not had experience with RB's but the internet is full of great information on this type of build.

Finally found a clutch rated for the expected torque and not full on/off aggression, it is supposed to be somewhere in between a road and a track. I never knew you could get this type of clutch plate, are they common?

The Pistons and Manly rods and stainless valves, the guides are brass and the ports have been worked so nicely!

Build it and they will come!

Thanks, guys, I have a new upgraded collar and read up a bit and many were using the same oil pump I bought, I will get an aftermarket damper as I will likely do a few track days but nothing too strenuous. The engine has had the works thrown at it, I gave him my list as I wanted something strong and lasting, I am not grouting it so it should be able to keep temps down as well. I see some half grout or fully grout the blocks depending on use but I am not that serious about big power and will run the manual until I need to run the powerglide. I have been trying to accumulate all the odd sods for plumbing and breathing etc too as I read they require it. The crank pulley is good advice and I noticed them offered as an aftermarket part which made me think they needed replacement. I will order it now. I will run the stock trigger for now as it will probably need to sell another bike to afford the kit.