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Found this on Facebook - I am simply lost for words how much it has deteriorated since selling it almost five years ago.

^ You forget you're on oldschool, the home of polishing turds

So I pull up into a carpark somewhere today, 4.1l per 100km for the trip so I'm just sitting there being a smug prick like I've just saved the world or something. Parked up with my window down. Some young random labourer dude in the van next to me caught a wiff of my smug stench and goes: "That is the gayest car I have ever seen" I cracked up, surprisingly it's the first time I've been randomly insulted about driving an old ladys car. He looked so disgusted hahahaha. If only he knew... IF ONLY HE KNEW!!!

I'm pretty sure IHREEN is considered an investment plate now its been shown in English media.

Thanks for the help guys, put a piece of 2x4 against the head, gave it a few smacks with beefier hammer and it came loose!

I see lots of spam and no fezza skids... sort yourselves out.

turns out the engine in the series one was/is a 173. Whipped some shit off it and it's definitely had a recent rebuild. bores are a wee bit glazed looking and had a bit of greasy carbon on the piston tops. I imagine the glazing comes from running low load high RPM as is often done when doing road driving in old series landys. Once I get it together I'll chuck a decent trailer on the thing and give it a good pull up through vinegar hill and shit. Didn't blow any smoke so I reckon it'll come right. Not really any evidence of blowby etc from the underside so we'll see. +.50mm pistons and new bearings, alloy timing gears etc. cam looks a bit worn so will bin that head hadn't really had a birthday - needed new exhaust valves and springs are a bit soft, guides are a bit pooey. I blame the carbon on this . gave the head to ol' jim and he's taking forever.... he's giving the ports a bit of a clean up/deshrouding the valves, sorting the springs/exh valves etc He's also built up a late red 202 carb for it or some shit. need to order a camshaft. I don't want a 'regrind' so will prolly get one smashed out of a new billet off auckland camshaft services. lpg/towing 'high torque' type should free up a few neddys and make it happier to sit at high rpm lol. will order a new alternator closer to the time of engine fitment (100A one from ashdowns) and a few other bits and pieces. I was reluctant to use the 173 when I found it wasn't what it was meant to be but they're not that far down on power compared to a 186, plus I was always happy with the amount of power the 186 made, just it was getting tired and the cam thrust plate etc i think is worn causing camshaft walk/unable to get the timing nice so it pinks like fuck. should go good once it's in. Need to replace the input shaft bearing in the trans too so I haven't been using the thing for the last couple of months until I get the cylinder head back and can proceed with the engine swap. I stripped the series one of anything decent (fuck all) and sold the wheels/tyres to a joker that'll be using them on his farm landy (10km commute to his cowshed on closed roads then paddock work etc) which recovered the cost of the vehicle. rest went to scrap - chassis broke in half when they forklifted it off my trailer. lolz.

Progress on the machining for the steering bits. - need to get them plated before fitting. Shims should allow for fine tuning of bump steer. Also some reduction in progress can be attributed to the sidetrack of new POS track beater.

In the scheme of things its cost neutral to buy a standard motor to get it going. Because you sell it again when you swap the good motor in. Biting off more than you can chew is the #1 reason why projects fail.

A slightly modified blacktop does drive significantly better than a standard one including being smooth with more low down drivability. Some mild cams and a link is all you really need. Leave everything else factory and it will run mint and still get up and go. I can't believe I just said that. Maybe I'm getting old.

If you get a Farm Source Supercard, you'll only be paying the equivalent of 3.69 l/100 km. 10% more smug.

Jackpot. Excuse the rivets. I was out of wood screws.

yep I have the block of cheese. Has been sitting in the same place since 2011.

And that's what you get for selling your baby.

get some 'universal tractor oil' off them and run it in EVERYTHING like a true farmer too

oh yeah I chucked those widened s1 steelz and crossply muds on for a lol. looked pretty staunch. same width as the ones I roll now and I didn't really want the extra offset making the steering even cuntier so I didn't run with them. plus the tyres were cracked and i didn't want them esploding on me 750r16 radials on stock LWB rims. 750-16 crossply wranglers on widened SWB series one rims.

Got my RD1/Farm Source account application form today. Keen for 16 cents per litre off petrol.

Did Dave make you an espresso at the Wrapshop? #headshotcoffee #professionalcoffeetohomeandsmallbusiness

Petes career advice: Sportscars, not Auckland houses.

Arch nemesis of Leyland P.I

well it is all legal after a few minor things like park lights and a indicator and getting horn to work but……. since then it has developed a massive oil leak from the back of the head and is now smoking! So as I'm not to fussed on pissing around much more with these old carby engines I have found a mx5 motor and bellhousing and am going to do the swap for fuel injection life. may as well as it was always the plan for reliability and economy just had hoped to at least use it for awhile as it is. if i get motivated i may try chuck a gasket at it and see if it comes right and use it for awhile until i have all the conversion worked out. here is a very technical drawing of the plan of attack

Purchased this gem from fello os'er 'oldnathan'. I'm a 4AGE boy at heart but have always had a love for the old boxy Cressidas, also needing a tow car for the kp i figured...why not. Bit of history on the old girl: 1986 - Started off her life at the Toyota plant in Thames, at 60 thou km's in 1993 it was sold on to some old geezer who owned the car for about 11 years. This is the part that saddens me, last year the coot decided to take her to the local wreckers for scrap!! luckily it was saved but i'm assuming when the cambelt was changed around this time the crank bolt wasn't torqued correctly and eventually slackened off enough and did the damage. The car was passed on to Nathan who then must've realized his v12 Cressida was more important, then on to me. The thing that really grabbed me was that it was basically bone stock, I have further found out from the scrap yard that ford springs were put in the rear to lower it a bit but other than that she's unmolested. Specs: Engine - 5M-GE 2.8L (worlds first engine of its kind with hydraulic tappets) Transmission - A43DE 4 speed with lock-up torque converter Rear end - Independant semi trailing, f series? 4.1:1 Sweet bits: Classic Digital dash, Leather interior (seen better days), Cruise control, illuminating drivers door key and ignition barrel, power mirrors & windows, central locking, vehicle speed sensitive power assisted steering, remote radio & a/c controls, trick gold Cressida wheels which am pointed out to have been painted, dam nice job at that. So enough blabbering, got the car trailered home last saturday knowing it had spun the crank timing pulley key then stripped it all down, found the crank seems (fingers crossed) ok but the pulley is quite damaged. Managed to hunt down a brand new pulley from murica and will be here tomorrow. In the mean time I spent the weekend cleaning the old girl up, nothing too major, most of the electrics weren't working but have found the one door was completely missing its regulator! in place was a handy piece of kiwi ingenuity...a block of wood nonetheless kept at it, diagnosed most of it, windows switches needs replacing, radio fuse was blown which stopped the wing mirrors from working...go figure. bits of rust here and there but all fixable, have sent through a mad order through to a guy for a bunch of stuff so hopefully can get all those nek wek. Basically im doing a slight resto, bringing her back to its original grandad/ma self in all of its sheepwool seat cover, cassette tape radio, bobble headed dog glory. Dont get me wrong I love seeing them slammed on a nice set of Japanese 14's, but I'm wanting something a bit more practical with comfort and style in mind. Thoughts here

only one way to find out

I am thinking of roasting a leg of lamb or pork over some coals.. Anybody think this is a bad idea?

The fact I'd be getting a bargain as well as fuel economy, adds an explosive exponential growth to the smugness. It's hard to know exactly how smug because I'd probably have passed out by that point.

How dare you.

also, ran a vin decoder and confirmed that it definitely was a factory 2600cc 6. all the signs pointed to this anyways. 347 Model: Land Rover, Series IIA Body type: Basic Wheel base: 109in Engine: 6-cylinder Model years: 1966-1971 Destination: Completely knocked down (CKD), right-hand drive (RHD) 0J996 Serial number D Design: Three significant design modifications Suffix used from April 1967 till March 1968

do that, or if you have a big enough pin spanner you can get it i made one out of 4 broken head studs welded together like a wheel brace

I had a ke20 with a bluetop, made the 4age feel extra fast even compared to something light like a AE82. Just chuck in the stock blacktop and work out development and rebuilds later I think. Focus on making the conversion look great, being practical and everything working.

If you want a motor that operates best down low, you don't want a 4AG (or 7AG) get something serious. My suggestion would be a mildly tweaked 4AG and live in upper regions of your rev counter.

+1 for 4AGE, 7AGE needless expense.

Just get the Blacktop in the hole with stock ecu and get it running.

Please tell me that you'll get some signwriting done and conveniently place the first two letters of "Grassman" on the front passenger's door

Top notch sharn Fuel A+

moved to a new town, set up new business, had a baby, set up shed........finally got some progress I set up the second half of the shed for the car by closing it in with some plastic. Best decision EVER! SOOOOO much BOG! discovered already = So much dust!! Got the rear quarter and drivers door stripped and coated in keyphos. The lower section was about 6mm thick with bog, covering up a few dents and a massive hole, and surprisingly the sill wasn't rusty, just totally dented in and filled with bog. Went through 2/3 coats of paint stripper then ended up having to use strip discs as 50% of the panel and the drivers door were totally layered in bog. Two strip discs and a dead grinder later i'm wondering if I just cut straight to sandblasting..... any OS'ers in the waikato keen to come and cut out my rust and fit some new steel?? http://oldschool.co....4-ke25-corolla/

Aaaand a couple more of my Levin My young fella coping with a flat Ipad, chatting to his uncle

Totally, we need to round out the mid life crisis sports cars.

Don't have kids and go contracting.

reminds me of venetian blinds, basically my house is a ferrari

Magnum Peeteye

Phwoar. That Triumph in the second photo.

It failed compliance on a broken door release cable. There's a surprising amount of DIY resources like workshop manuals, parts catalogues, and forum guides on these, thankfully. The wheels are directional - the thick side of the spoke is supposed to be towards the front. At some point, someone has mixed up the rear wheels. It came with this lush briefcase of Ferrari paint tin lid openers and some flat tyre wind with an F40 on the can. It's quite low. Doors are amusingly thick. Supermarket car parks might be tricky. It feels really strange sitting so inboard of the edge of the car.

One Bonus I fully forgot was that the ol boeast still has its original glass including the front windscreen!! Proven by the original number plate plastered on it. Friday night My new cambelt etc, crank keys and seals arrived so got stuck in as soon as i got home from work. Thankfully the new crank timing pulley fitted nice and snug on the crank snout so was in mint condition giving what had happened. Everything went together well, had to remove the exhaust side rocker cover to check the camshafts alignment, whilst it was out i took the chance to clean it up and add some sealant around the gasket to keep it from pissing out everywhere till i get new ones. Come 2:00am! it was all pieced together. Now bare in mind the car hadn't been run for over a year, i cranked her over for about 2 seconds, turned the key off, primed the fuel system then she fired straight into life. Had a bit of a miss when revved but cleared up not long after and has been great ever since. Being too excited/cold I didnt manage to snap a vid but hers another one after 2 trips to town as per trip meter. https://youtu.be/W_UO4ecej-c Today I took advantage of Hawkes bays 21 degree weather and attacked the rust...cant get away from the dam s@#t. The worst that i know of at the moment is on the lhs 'A' pillar and after chatting with my boss he said back then it was a common rusting point. After pulling out the goldilocks I engulfed the whole pillar with cavity wax and cleaned up all the rust. Ended up cutting back about 70mm of the guttering as it was toast and welded up the hole followed by por15 sealer. didnt get pics of the new plate but once the sealer had cured will bog over it all and repaint with the original coloured base coat in a can. Trial fitted my A3A, i do like the look but i think the ol geezer wont be happy. Quick snap of the near completed engine, will redo the wrinkle paint on the covers at some stage and Very lightly water blast the engine bay. Todays resolution: I'm bloody stoaked with my old Cressy (or Cress as per rego tag ). During my drive into town I had to test the cruise control, to my absolute delight it worked perfectly! Its pritty crude in the way it operates but hey, a coming up 30 year old car with cruise control, that shizz is pure luxury. Lets not forget the automatic fan speed AND air direction modes. Better stop my Toyota fan-boying... Got the car up on the hoist, everything looks great underneath, sumps a bit bashed and both rackends need replacing along with one shock but other than that and the rust she'll fly through the warrant fingers crossed..

PROGRESS!! Thankfully everything fits as it should, was worried the clutch m/s was going to be in the way, striked lucky there Diamond in the rough.. On a downer I found more rust...decided i'm just going to por15 the f@#k out of every patch of rust on the body and be done with it. Bring on tomorrow!

Suspension arrived today Straight after work got stuck in fitting a set of bug eye steering arms along with the front coilovers. Comparison pic, bug eye arm left, Slant front arm right. As you can see the kingpin inclination angle is set differently. Barry at MRP did an amazing job with these, custom camber adjustable top hats, adaptor sleeves fillet welded to original hubs then sent away for magnetic crack testing. Car looks in a bit of a mess at the moment since work has been on a major halt due to the lack of front suspension. More interesting stuff tomorrow.

Cleaned up and sprayed the diff housing in matte black so doesn't look to tacky & whipped in another sump baffle

Went for a boys weekend up to Auckland last weekend and did a Car wreckers crawl. I came across an NZ new KE70 with an 'auto roof' sunroof at Zebra, $45 later she was in my car! Some of you may dis-like sunroofs, I somewhat have a fetish for them although I was concerned as to how it would effect the cars structural integrity. Since I had a spare shell I test fitted the sunroof to see how well it fit, turned out to be a bit of a fail cutting the hole to big. On the upside I used the piece i cut out as a template after trimming to suit. With the help of the old man & 4 tin snips I nervously cut the hole out in the good shell. Took another good hour carefully trimming/filing the hole till the sunroof frame slotted in perfectly. 4 hours later.. Really happy with the way it turned out & really enjoyed fitting it, quite a cool feeling knowing that this would have been one of the jobs to be done at Toyota 30 years ago, similar to what I do today. Structurally the roof Is actually more rigid due to the fact the bottom half clamps the sunroof down from the inside. I also like this design better as the glass is sealed from underneath rather than on the sides & whether the glass is in or out there is always a frame securing the roof. TRD Big end bearings, main bearings & 0.8mm Headgasket literally arrived overnight from Japan! +1 for the 'JDM' newspaper. My wheel collection so far 4 x Advan ADA's 14 x 6" +15 4 x Advan A3A's 14 x 6" +6 4 x Toyota Cressida factory wheels 15 x ? 2 X SSR MKIII 14 x 6.5" +9.5 Can never have enough wheels

Things have been pritty slow lately on the kp since my daily got backed into by some old geezer :/ never-the-less my new parts arrived finally got around the finish off spraying the front grill: Providing this guy cuts off the yoke for the W55 it should be here this friday!

Received my new front grill, just need to find a badge to finish it off. Just sprayed it with adhesive promoter then run out of filler primer half way through spraying :/ Started on the wing mirrors after testing the black paint I had on my starlet badge not sure how someone could think it was cool to fit this in a kp! Buying a new/old crankshaft for the 4AGE then have it balanced as word of Barry from MRP my knife-edged Crank will create too much harmonic imbalance at 9500rpm yes thats my target! Also found a W55 once the guy removes it from the vehicle

moar pics, pulled the DASH head off my donor engine third valve arrangement - up close - there is an oil pump driven off a lobe on the end of the camshaft - which in turn sends oil through the 3rd valve solenoid which gets switched on at 2500rpm, and the plunger seen at the top gets pulled down and oil flow from the oil pump directed into the inlet side rocker shaft - where a plunger on the 3rd valve rocker arms pushes a locking pin in to actuate the valve, when the locking pin isn't engaged the rod touching the top of the valve stem just freely protrudes into the rocker arm housing - up close - Discuss bitches! //oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=21647