Roman's 4GR V6 Carina discussion thread

[Muncie]

Needs a quiet exhaust to dull out the moo and let ITBS scream their tits off.

[yoeddynz]

On 30/04/2023 at 19:55, Roman said:

 

 

Dude who's into sw20s (like Roman was), likes graphs and now 2grs. Plus looks not unlike Dave (with glasses) 

Your doppelganger? 

[Roman]

He has also been turd polishing toyota hybrid engines (2arfxe)

...havent seen any mspaint yet though.

 

[Truenotch]

13 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

Your doppelganger? 

He's Roman VI

[h4nd]

Got end on pics of plugs, and pin pitch measurements? Digikey has a good selector / finder:

 https://www.digikey.co.nz/en/products/filter/terminal-junction-systems/422

or more likely https://www.digikey.co.nz/en/products/filter/rectangular-connectors/rectangular-connector-housings/319?s=N4IgjCBcoBw1oDGUBmBDANgZwKYBoQB7KAbXADYBOAJkoFYQBdAgBwBcoQBlNgJwEsAdgHMQAXwlA

 

[Roman]

Ahh, thanks I hadnt thought of that. 

I'll get some pics and take some measurements

[sleeektoy]

 

Quote

My engine didnt come with a starter motor or alternator. 
These two things seem to evaporate instantly on the pickapart cars.

It's not a surprise; Aside from oil changes, the starter, alternator, and water pump are the 3 things i have replaced on my 3GR Lexus.

The starter seems a bit weak, it was sketchy with mis-engaging to the ring gear from around 90K Km but I just mashed the start button until it worked... until it didn't anymore at 145K Km.

I suspect the alternator had gotten a bit fed up of the starter requesting all the amps and blew a diode whilst i was on a long trip, that stalled the alternator and burnt out the front clutch on it. lucky this was as i cruised into Auckland

Water pump was just noisy/dripping and done when the alternator/belt was off. 21 bolts for this was a touch overkill. Aftermarket starter and alternator, Toyota genuine water pump all going strong.

[Roman]

Yeah I did find one alternator at pickapart but the front pulley felt a bit stuffed. 
Interesting about the clutched pulley on the front.
I saw there's reconditioned ones with a new front pulley for $300something on trademe, so probably just go that way when the time comes.

I've considered bodging something else on there that's more common (Have got a few 3S / 1NZ alternators) 
But I've got enough other issues to sort currently. 

 

[Roman]

I found someone who's made a 2GR sound less awful than most.
So it has equal length 3-1 manifolds that then they go to an X pipe which carries on to two pipes out the back.
There was a nicer one on FB but I cant share it here. 
But this is more like the sort of exhaust note I'd hope I can get.
This is still doing some sooky rpm limit on factory ECU. So will be way better with another 3000rpm or whatever, and some ITB noises! 
 

 

[Yowzer]

If it sounds like that with the factory RPM, yours is gonna sound insane!

[GARDRB]

It sounds a whole lot better than a 350z 

 

[Truenotch]

Is it possible to make split flanges for the headers and install each runner individually? 

These guys did it with a Volvo, but the stud arrangement on the 4GR will probably dictate whether it'd work for you. 

 

[Roman]

Hopefully smaller motor will sound a bit more "snappy" too.

Ive been thinking that the guy who made that v12 video. Was obsessed with the idea that equal length 6-1 on each side made the high pitched sound of the zonda. But I wonder if having more tail pipes changes the pitch too. 

As in, if you have a 6-1 collector that then splits back out to 2 pipes, and the accoustic length is slightly offset. It might sound like twice as many pulses.

The zonda has 4 tail pipes, not sure what happens upstream of that. But maybe thats similar to x pipe on the likes of an mr2.

It will be fun to do some experimenting and try tune the sound once its all together.

[Roman]

@Truenotch nah cant really split them.

But I might need to have a flange half way down near the steering column, so its easier to get in and out than a super long piece. 

Passengers side Ive got heaps of room, but Id like to try keep the designs symmetrical if I can. 

[tortron]

Can you build up instead, and then have room for 1 pipe past the column

 

[anglia4]

I want to see the bonnet cut with the tops of those tube bends sticking out.

 

[tortron]

4 minutes ago, anglia4 said:

I want to see the bonnet cut with the tops of those tube bends sticking out.

 

Speed bulges each side

 

Then a big long intake down the middle

 

 

They don't seem to cut the hoods on anything I have seen online that run them, except for meme bonnet exit exhausts. Thickness of the valve cover and a hands worth I guess. 

[Nominal]

A couple of turbos up high would make the routing easier I reckon

 

[xsspeed]

1 hour ago, tortron said:

Can you build up instead,

or forward

[Roman]

Cant go forward, because the alternator lives in the way on one side. 



I guess maybe I could low mount the alternator, then run a 1NZ alternator or whatever. But not sure if a smaller one will have enough current for the 6 banger. 
Used to get a little bit of voltage drop at high rpm with the 1NZ.

@Nominal twin turbo would actually be fairly easy, because the factory manifolds can be flipped left to right, so they face forwards instead of backwards. But meh! 

I hate the idea of a cut bonnet, but if I was doing that I'd make the intakes straighter so they're a nice stack out the top. 

I think I've got a slightly bent spare bonnet at Dads place still... 


@tortron I cant really go up, as I've got the brake booster and master cyl there. I've already nuked all of my space for a clutch master cyl, so will need to fit a reverse mount one. 


Also this was funny / a bit of a mindfuck. 
These are all 90 degree bends, so why are they bending in away from the chassis rail!? 
Oh yeah, because the motor is tipped and I've rotated them. Hah. However I've worked out the angle that makes the pipes perpendicular to the rails.
Hopefully I can make the front and middle ones a little shorter with a bit less of a bend, so the lengths are more even. But then it's deceptively difficult to remove. 
The exhaust manifold has studs on every hole, so you need to move the manifold quite a distance from the head to remove it.