Roman Posted February 17, 2023 Author Posted February 17, 2023 No concrete plan yet, but yeah probably remake one. Quote
yetchh Posted February 17, 2023 Posted February 17, 2023 Shit, there ain't a lot of room under that block.. I'm a big fan of the 1gr as a transplant but the 7-9k price tag puts me off, for such a common motor. Quote
Sunbeam Posted February 17, 2023 Posted February 17, 2023 8 hours ago, yetchh said: Shit, there ain't a lot of room under that block.. I'm a big fan of the 1gr as a transplant but the 7-9k price tag puts me off, for such a common motor. Shiite! Why so spendy? Is that just Prado/Hilux tax? Quote
yetchh Posted February 17, 2023 Posted February 17, 2023 As I say that two come up on the tard for $5.5k both with 250+km Quote
VitesseEFI Posted February 17, 2023 Posted February 17, 2023 38 minutes ago, Sunbeam said: Shiite! Why so spendy? Usually means they blow-up a lot, hence high demand…. 3 Quote
yetchh Posted February 18, 2023 Posted February 18, 2023 4 hours ago, VitesseEFI said: Usually means they blow-up a lot, hence high demand…. They're actually one of toyotas more reliable engines, but like anything if maintenance isn't keep up to date things go wrong. Anyway, soz for the spam @Roman Quote
thegreatestben Posted February 18, 2023 Posted February 18, 2023 When I sold the 2gr from our blade that was killer by a bus, the guy who bought it remarked how hard it was to find a motor that wasn’t 600,000km ex taxi motor from aus. He had a camshaft snap in his harrier and it lunched itself which sounds like bad luck. 2 Quote
Willdat? Posted February 18, 2023 Posted February 18, 2023 Sounds like the 2GR in the family wagon is better than money in the bank! I might be an idiot, but would it be possible to chuck the decision making process as to why the 4GR was the best choice into the first post? I wanted to use it to show students about using research/data to inform decision making within a project. It's far more interesting than the typical data analysis, but yet still simple enough for them to get it. 1 Quote
Roman Posted February 18, 2023 Author Posted February 18, 2023 Yeah for sure, I'll do that. Edit: Done. Yeah the 2GR is something I'd considered a long time ago, but dismissed because they cant really rev much beyond 7500 or 8000rpm. Also, they cost fucking moonbeams which isnt a great starting package when intending to do some aahhh... exploratory rpm based research. $600-800 replacement block for 4GR from a much more common Mark X that is an unloved engine by comparison. That also meets my rpm goals. sweet deal! This option totally flew under the radar! 6 1 Quote
Roman Posted February 18, 2023 Author Posted February 18, 2023 54 minutes ago, yetchh said: They're actually one of toyotas more reliable engines, but like anything if maintenance isn't keep up to date things go wrong. Anyway, soz for the spam @Roman No problem at all, interesting to learn new things. Never new the 1GR was so expensive! Quote
ajg193 Posted February 18, 2023 Posted February 18, 2023 I feel like your sump idea is over thinking it. Just get a machinist or use a die grinder to lop the sides of those drain holes out so the oil can flow sideways into the sump. 1 Quote
Spencer Posted February 18, 2023 Posted February 18, 2023 Hey so why is the front bowl sump like the cressida guy is using no good? Still sit too high and forward with that setup? The look pretty shit the bowl is giant. Check out the chunk of alloy sump this geezer made, just do that lol. https://www.turbofast.com.au/GT86.html Quote
Roman Posted February 18, 2023 Author Posted February 18, 2023 The front sump might be good, but likely too deep for how low I'd like to sit the engine. Also, I cant find one anywhere. That one above isnt necessarily any less complex, how do the bolts do up that are located above the oil pan? on left and right sides. Must have a tube that goes all the way through and uses a long bolt from underneath. As they cant do up anything with the pan off, because the pan bolts are on the top. hah. @ajg193 The oil drain back channels are a "may as well" thing, secondary to being able to get some straight walls on the sides of the sump. It's not actually all that complicated, will seem a lot simpler when I've put a cad model together and you can see better what I'm thinking. 2 Quote
Roman Posted February 18, 2023 Author Posted February 18, 2023 First plate that bolts to the motor looks sorta like this (get router to do the complex bits) Then the second plate has simple walls, only 6 flat sides and all of the oil drains are inside. Quote
scott90 Posted February 19, 2023 Posted February 19, 2023 would you o-ring between the sump and custom the adaptor plate? or say just a groove so you can put a bead of sealant in there? Quote
Roman Posted February 19, 2023 Author Posted February 19, 2023 Yeah will do it how the factory pans do, will just cut a groove then use sealant. Will have o-rings on the interface to the oil filter in/out lines. (again as per factory fit) Quote
yetchh Posted February 19, 2023 Posted February 19, 2023 12 minutes ago, Roman said: Yeah will do it how the factory pans do, will just cut a groove then use sealant. Will have o-rings on the interface to the oil filter in/out lines. (again as per factory fit) Do you reckon you'll be compromising the strength offered by the factory upper sump by removing it, especially if your planning on revving to 10k? Unless you have some strengthening in mind.. I took a look at the sump on my 2wd 1gr hilux and it has the sump way forward, like 100mm past the timing cover, and it's 6ltr capacity. They also have the same bolt pattern as the 4gr. 1 Quote
Roman Posted February 19, 2023 Author Posted February 19, 2023 I'd be happy to try one if I could find one! Strength issues, dunno. Will have to see if that's an issue, although I'm not sure how it would present itself. Quote
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