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Posted

If they are milled to the correct pcd not wildly oversized and there is still a good land for the bolt head I don't see too much of an issue. 

Welding the chromoly then remachining for trueness opens up some potential headache in my opinion.

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Posted

Yeah welding it isnt even really an option, because it's super thick there. As this replaces a dual mass flywheel.

Toda Racing Ultra Light Weight Chromoly Flywheel - SXE10 - RHDJapan

But that's also what gives me some confidence that it's not going to blow to smithereens either.
Alternatively I could drill new holes in between centers of existing, but I think slotting would likely be the better option.
The consensus of internet facts(tm) seems to be that so long as you're slotting outwards rather than inwards, it's okay. 


 @shrike I think the radiator will be fine, will just mix and match hoses to make it work.

Posted
2 hours ago, shrike said:

I'd be hesitant to slot flywheel bolt holes, could probably get them welded up and then redrilled though.

How much shorter does the rad need to be for the hoses to line up? Could be worth seeing what other models may fit

Sad that I have been beaten to it, but yeah. The bolts provide a clamping force regardless of if slotted. The spigot in the center needs to remain a circle though (lol)

and yes, no to welding as the HAZ could be more detrimental to structure than any slotting.

 

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Posted

I will do the same trick as before, print with Nylon PA12 and then wrap with carbon fiber. 

This time I'll add some crush tubes so the bolts can do up tight without having to be precious about overt tightening them.

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Posted
On 24/02/2023 at 07:21, ThePog said:

I quite often drop oily engine parts directly onto the glass of my A3 printer/scanner, with a 300mm ruler laying beside it

Video of Dave dropping a V6 onto scanner please :)

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Posted

I'm not too sure, but I'll measure it when next in the garage. 
However I can confirm that it's bloody huge.

 @anglia4 my ECU actually only accepts a digital input for "clutch", so I'm actually using a general purpose output that then triggers a virtual on/off switch. 

Reason for doing it this way, is that matching the on/off switch to the clutch engagement point for rev matching or flat shift is super critical. 
So being able to adjust in software is super awesome.

It's not strictly necessarily but it's an absolute life saver. 
I can add other analog or digital stuff over canbus as well, so not hugely stressed about running out of IO. It's mainly just a case of making sure that all of the mission critical stuff is direct to ECU where possible.

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Posted

I think one of those bmw things runs an external e-throttle actuator with a linkage up to the actual throttle bodies.

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSnxY4pBNJyXicEu2Bjl1Q

I think they also explode a lot.

Carry on

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Posted

Could you turn each row of throttles 180 so that the servo hangs off the other side- then stand them up more vertical so that the air doesn't have to do such a sharp turn after the throttle?

Or, could you do a one piece lower manifold that manages the cross over, then mount the throttles basically flat as soon as they have finished crossing over?

edit:
You appear to be moving too quickly on this, so i'd like to add more complexity. Thanks.

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Posted
On 07/03/2023 at 11:43, Roman said:

I cant flip them the other way because the fuel hose connection onto the fuel rails will hit the bonnet

No probs. I've got the solution for you! :thumbleft:

 

0ca0cba0-6422-6000-bcd1-56f275cc8a91_0ca20f33-f94a-6003-ba13-165c8ef4a6fb_1_0ca20f34-7674-6000-a5a9-765181d04683_d9496b16-77cf-43d9-b260-97424180634c.jpg

SmartSelect_20230309-085018_Adblock Browser.jpg

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Posted

hey dave whats your estimate on weight diff between the 3s and this? I thought you had said something like 50kg but wondered if youd started weighing anything?

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