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Romans 2005 Toyota Echo


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16 minutes ago, kpr said:

Re c series gearboxes.  Have pulled many apart. The janky way works fine. Just need to split the case  and have about 10 to 15mm gap to work with to get 2x m8 bolts out that hold the reverse selector thing?  Then will come apart.  Otherwise doing it the proper way,  getting 5th gear off can be a pain. But the later boxes seem to have jacking bolt holes. which makes things not too bad. 

 

Even I've done the above and had zero experience pulling apart a gearbag.

All goods.

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7 hours ago, ~Slideways~ said:

Ah so that's quite a large one! I was looking at the Ender 3 Pro which says it can do Carbon Fibre (not sure if that's the right thing). But the build size is much smaller at 220x220x250.

From what I can find the nozzle can do 240degC and the base 110degC so maybe just shy of what is needed.

I suppose a manifold could be designed in pieces that slot together?

The Ender 3 Pro is great for the $, but I reckon the max bed temp is closer to 80-85 degrees by the time the build plate is attached. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I noticed a huge difference in the K11 we have that has the LSD. That hillclimb up the road from us- you can really hoof it out of the tight corners with no scrabbling for grip especially when its a bit damp. Great fun! Super happy we got that car because that gearbox is pretty hard to find in a K11.

We had one of those new rally spec echos/Yaris? go racing past us the other way when out on the pushbikes yesterday- I'm guessing it was a turbo 3 pot? Fuck it sounded cool and looked sweet with its pumped out arches!

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Bearing situation. 

Getting the bearings off was a one way trip so definitely no chance of reusing them. 

It turns out that there's a slight change in gearbox bearings half way through the run of NCP13s (possibly facelift vs not) 

So on one side of the diff, the bearing is the same between AE111, NCP13, and NCP91.

However on the other side,
AE111 and early Vitz NCP13 share a bearing part number.
Then late NCP13 and NCP91 have a different bearing part number. 

The early one is 19.4mm wide and the late one is 18.4mm wide. 
There's a different taper angle on the bearing/shell.
Presumably that side of the transmission case is cut shallower to allow for the difference, they definitely arent just interchangable.

So I played bearing roulette and ordered two yesterday just before lockdown news... and got the wrong one for that side. :clown:

But at least I now know definitively what I need. 
 

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I'd love to have speed signal from wheel sensors, because then I can use proper traction control features in the ECU.

Buuuutttt

The problem is that the high tooth count on the ABS rings means the ECU tops out its ability to read frequencys quite low (something like 80kph or 100kph max)
If I cut down the tooth count to suit the ECU then ABS doesnt work properly, and honestly it's bloody good having ABS at the track after being used to not having it (and flat spotting tyres) 
I have looked at how I could bodge the speedo ring back on, but realized if it flies apart at some point it's about 50x more effort to fix the problem at that point, than it is to just have some extra patience and fix it now. 
So I have ordered a replacement bearing. One good thing is that it's considerably easier to press the old one back off when there's no speedo gear on it.

Also I cant drive this car at all until I've got a working alternator, and I wont be able to pick up the new bracket until some time after level 4 simmers down. 

Not that it matters because I cant really drive it anywhere anyway while we are at level 4. 

Not the end of the world. 

Taupo Trackday is October 1st though which I've realized is sneaking up! Definitely keen to have the LSD installed well before that, and try get everything tip top reliability wise. 

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8 hours ago, h4nd said:

I have been doing some more homework on this.
The sensors are two wire, so I've been assuming they are a variable reluctor.
But turns out that its not uncommon for ABS sensors to be a 2 wire hall effect sensors that output square wave. 

If this is the case then I assume my life becomes a whole lot easier. 

Will do some testing with the scope.

 

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On 15/08/2021 at 19:42, Roman said:

So I put on my brave pants and took my brave pills and pulled my spare gearbox apart...

Too easy! 
DSC08462.thumb.jpg.22f4393cb4735d2a88f4117174d14d8a.jpg

I think I've just managed to get some PTSD from the complexity of J160 boxes. But this was piece of cake. 

I toyodiy'd the gearbox parts to look for any differences, found that the bearings and shells have different part numbers. 
Some more digging and I found that they have a different size or taper on the bearing and shell, so you need to match them. 
Otherwise you get this situation where the shell doesnt sit flush to the bearing:

May be an image of 1 person and text that says 'Hiro @Hiro_racing2213 thought that it was a lot of troubles and it was disassembled again... It seems that the shape of the sleeve that receives the side bearing is different... The sleeve is also changed. It's safe because had the parts as a set. Toyota-san is really annoyed that it doesn't suit the parts taken in this mission. 9:00 PM Nov 27, 2020 Twitter for Android 5 Likes'


DSC08459.thumb.jpg.d8145a91724840ed2a5e7415312431db.jpg

So this week I'll pop over to my Dads place and use the gear puller and press to swap the bearings over, then its fairly easy looking to get it all back together.
It turns out that some variants of the C series box have a 6 bolt crownwheel, luckily both the AE111 torsen center and the RS box have the 8 bolt pattern.
Cant wait to get this new box in, will be awesome. 

I've also been thinking of some methods for half arsed launch control when I dont have a non driven wheel speed signal. 
I have setup a timer that resets to zero when TPS is over 80% and vehicle speed is zero. 
So when the vehicle speed goes over zero, the timer advances and the engine is allowed to accellerate at a specified rate over that time.
Then once the timer reaches 4 seconds you get the normal rev limit from then onwards.
The other axis will be an input that will come over canbus from my dash, so you can adjust how aggressive it is.
I'm not quite sure what sort of time period will be needed yet for this to work nicely.

image.png.b3ff5a9dd1d813257dba9cf720cd938c.png


Oh yeah and bodged together a little canbus dash to show some things that you dont get on the main screen.
Graduated shift light is pretty sweet.
But the main thing is to give some peace of mind about the electric waterpump, with some big flashing warnings if it fails.

233262011_369898407997656_1272190905091354394_n.jpg.ab4c4b5d697f983d16abb96fcc7a98c5.jpg

Lol.. Just bodged it together... Damn, that sort of DIY is so far out of reach of the average person it's crazy lol. 

Love it. 

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