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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


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20 minutes ago, Muncie said:

Earth other side of pipe.

I tried relocating the earth so it was connected to the pipe rather than my "welding table"(a bit of 25mm steel plate).

It appears that grinding a small flat on the end of the electrode has sorted it.

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On 09/12/2020 at 22:03, Adoom said:

So I have a DC tig welding issue. I'm still new to tig.

I'm trying to weld some mild steel exhaust tube, so it's 1.6mm thick.

The arc is not shooting straight out the end of the electrode, it's pissing off at an angle, about 45  degrees.  If I get it REALLY close to the puddle, it looks like it's straight, but really, it's still at an angle.

I'm using 30-35 amps. 

I've made sure I have a good connection with the ground clamp.

I've cleaned the work with acetone.

I've tried striking an arc on a thick steel plate and turning up the amps to 170. But it's still doing it.

I assumed it was the grind on the electrode. I tried regrinding it by hand. I tried turning it in the drill while grinding it on the bench grinder. I've tried a really sharp point and a not so sharp point. I've tried a different electrode. I've tried a shorter stick out. It all seems to make no difference.

WTF else should I try?

Do you have a magnet close by or you welding in a conner? DC gets arc blow like there is wind blowing it, AC won’t do it

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9 minutes ago, SOHC said:

Do you have a magnet close by or you welding in a conner? DC gets arc blow like there is wind blowing it, AC won’t do it

The issue was my grind on the electrode, I'd ground it to a sharp point. I ground a small flat on the end and the arc was much better. 

But I did think of the magnet issue. I thought it might have been my fitbit, so tried taking that off too.

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22 minutes ago, yoeddynz said:

Ideal for removing the anodizing on some race face cranks I have that are a horrid green? 

Yup do it outdoors - submerge the whole thing and scrub off / rinse

Don’t leave them too long or it will etch into the alloy 

Some won’t shift some falls  right off - do a test patch on the back of one first 

The cheaper the oven cleaner the better results bam or Selleys is good 

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On 13/12/2020 at 20:32, Adoom said:

The issue was my grind on the electrode, I'd ground it to a sharp point. I ground a small flat on the end and the arc was much better. 

But I did think of the magnet issue. I thought it might have been my fitbit, so tried taking that off too.

Which way are you grinding your electrodes? The grind lines need to run down the length of the tungsten not around and around. For steel tig welding electrode should be a sharp as possible and the ground section about 3x as long as diameter of tungsten, has always worked for me.

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10 minutes ago, rusty360 said:

Which way are you grinding your electrodes? The grind lines need to run down the length of the tungsten not around and around. For steel tig welding electrode should be a sharp as possible and the ground section about 3x as long as diameter of tungsten, has always worked for me.

I was grinding them sharp. Like in image 'A'. I also tried different tapers. But the arc would always fuck off to the side, it didn't matter what what current level.

Then I ground them like 'B' with a flat on the end, it's less than a mm. That has given me a consistent arc.Electrode.thumb.jpg.464dc32e21577dbe2e52670094ae0cf7.jpg

 

 

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Someone gave me an OB2 scan tool to try to find out why the engine light is on in the 2004 Nissan but it says link error after it scans, I tried it in a couple other cars and it says the same thing, is that just a crappy scan tool?

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I had a nissan of that era, needed to download this russian app to get it to connect but it could work.

But it doesnt work with the usual ones like Torque or whatever as it's got its own protocol or some crap like that.

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On 19/12/2020 at 21:40, SOHC said:

Someone gave me an OB2 scan tool to try to find out why the engine light is on in the 2004 Nissan but it says link error after it scans, I tried it in a couple other cars and it says the same thing, is that just a crappy scan tool?

I have a 2002 nissan and found a procedure the other day to get it to throw fault codes at me. It was an odd combination of accelerator movement's and then the engine light would flash in accordance with any fault codes. Google is your friend. Mine was a qr25 engine in an xtrail, no idea if it's the same for other stuff

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8 hours ago, Beaver said:

I have a 2002 nissan and found a procedure the other day to get it to throw fault codes at me. It was an odd combination of accelerator movement's and then the engine light would flash in accordance with any fault codes. Google is your friend. Mine was a qr25 engine in an xtrail, no idea if it's the same for other stuff

This engine is a QR25 to, I will give it a google. 

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47 minutes ago, SOHC said:

This engine is a QR25 to, I will give it a google. 

https://www.nissanforums.com/threads/reading-error-codes-on-x-trail.99211/

 

That's what I used. The post with all the codes has the instructions at the bottom. It took me a few goes but it worked in the end. Have a watch/timer handy

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