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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt

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I've had good results with evaporust, but only when the items were fully submerged, and it did take a while. 

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I think I'd have pitted the good metal to the point of having to scrap it if I left it long enough to do the pitted parts.

Soaking a rag or paper towel is evaporust recommend procedure as well. 

 

Basically I'm ranting because I bought it but it took ages to get here, so I bought some rust converter but it turned out to be half fish oil without being described as such, and I couldn't get any basic phosphoric acid without waiting even longer. Tried to get some putty to dam in only the pitted areas but no where had any and it has been on backorder for weeks. So I used the whole container and wrapped it all up and all its done is mark the clean metal.

A soda blaster would have been a better use of funds

 

I just ground it down again with the die grinder, went over the whole lot twice with a wire wheel and again twice with sandpaper and put a quarter inch of durepox on it, ain't got time for environmentally friendly bs

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Just now, Nominal said:

Best solution is not to let your sheet metal get rusty in the first place @tortron

This was rusty prior to my birth. The cold rolled I buy gets some saddle wax on it because I have lots

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Are you sure where it pitted wasn't tiny bits of rust? Even after a grind down you'd likely have dots below finished surface. I've found that sort of stuff goes for the easy stuff first. I've dunked bits in that are 100% legit in areas and rusty in others. The legit bit doesn't even get touched, but it will eventually work it's way down into the pits a layer of rust at a time.

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It was under about 8 coats of paint including the factory original.

It was 30cm minimum away from any damaged paint 

(The pitting is where the paint was rubbed off on high points)

Everything had been strip disked and wire wheeled.

This was as clean and white as metal gets.

 

It seems to have only etched into it where the cloth was touching. Half of it was only wrapped in plastic and though it discoloured the steel there it doesn't appear to have etched it (sanding marks not rounded off like you would see after a light acid wash)

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1 minute ago, Spencer said:

That molasses is just expensive/slow acid.

Tastes better though I bet. 

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Petrol carb motor hard to start when hot....any obvious things to check? My ute generally takes  a bit of effort to start when its hot (i.e. stopping during a long drive or whatever) and takes a few goes to get to it catch. Seems to stumble a bit then cleans up quickly and runs fine (well as fine as it normally runs). 

Also has a slight intermittent miss under load and low rpm. Doubt its related but figured I'd throw that in the mix. Has new leads and plugs in the recent past.

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Coil could be starting to go, sounds similar to the issue I had with Morrie once

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1 hour ago, tortron said:

Coil could be starting to go, sounds similar to the issue I had with Morrie once

Short of replacing it and seeing if anything changes, is there a way to test?

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1 hour ago, 00quattro00 said:

odBTt2.gif

 

Any tips for checking/fixing this?

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1 hour ago, Beaver said:

Short of replacing it and seeing if anything changes, is there a way to test?

Check resistance in primary and secondary windings. They fail due to insulation breaking down. low resistance or very high resistance is bad. 

1 hour ago, Beaver said:

Any tips for checking/fixing this?

If engine stalls or is hard to start pour water over carb and fuel pump to cool them down. If it fixes the problem then your fuel is getting too hot. 

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Timing slightly out? Does it need a bit of peddle to get going? 

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