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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt

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7 minutes ago, peteretep said:

I put LED’s on my aprilia but I had to convert from ac to dc for it to work

Do they run AC?
The bulb that came out of a spare dashboard Ive got just looks like a normal(ish) car one?

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4 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Do they run AC?
The bulb that came out of a spare dashboard Ive got just looks like a normal(ish) car one?

A normal bulb will run on ac no worries, but LED’s need dc. If you have a soldering iron I can tell you what bits you need to buy to make it work, costs less than $10 to convert it from memory

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2 minutes ago, Mof said:

Ronnie has a battery and electric start?

Most scooters and a lot of bikes run 2 circuits, charging/brake light/horn/indicators etc on DC and then lighting and auto choke etc on an AC circuit.

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6 hours ago, Raizer said:

Most scooters and a lot of bikes run 2 circuits, charging/brake light/horn/indicators etc on DC and then lighting and auto choke etc on an AC circuit.

Sounds like some strong white man's magic.

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LEDs can run on AC, probably not best practice but a number run them like that including myself, the trailtechs probably help by keeping the AC from flying all over the show.

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15 hours ago, igor said:

For some years now there has been a VN Commodore wagon in my neighbour's yard. It hasn't been started for at least two years. Today the owner turned up hoping to get it going. We put a few gallons of fresh petrol in the tank and hooked up a good battery. After attending to a few loose electrical connections it cranked over okay but didn't start. We're assuming it has spark and blaming fuel supply issues. I did suggest whipping the sparkplugs out to check that it actually has spark but I was over-ruled. Might be a job for next time. It's a 5.0 litre V8 with fuel injection and we're all a bit technologicaly challenged when it comes to injected systems / more at home with carburettors. Do any of you have a best guess for where/what to start checking?

Also when I went to remove one of the wheels on it, cos flat tyre from sitting, I found that three out of the four wheels have mismatched nuts. That was news to the owner as well. Just as well he had a multifit wheelbrace.

If fuel delivery issue remove the injectors and go buy a bottle of injector cleaner, leave the injectors soaking in the cleaner overnight and it'll start when refitted. I can't remember literally anything else about those engines but have done that a heap of times.

 

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14 minutes ago, kicker said:

LEDs can run on AC, a number run them like that, the trailtechs probably help by keeping the AC from flying all over the show.

The basic trailtech just regulates the AC, same effect as the stock regulator + ballast resistor.

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10 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Sounds like some strong white man's magic.

Luckily you know some pasty white guys with soldering irons...

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I really have no idea where to ask this question but I also don't really think it requires it's own thread. Plus all the nerdy types generally hang around this thread as it is.

Solid Mounting Engines and Gearbox. Pro's and Con's. - Specifically related to FWD Track Car with a 2 Way LSD. (Well VLSD)( More Like NSD)(OK Locked Diff)))

The alternative scenario would be to build some form of Engine Torque Dampening System to resist the Torque, like a Bike Shock / Spring situation.

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i dunno if it has any performance implications but i never really noticed it over how shit the rest of the car were, a bit more zingy in the seat?, one car (east west) was all solid and the other north south solid but soft gearbox mounts, both locked diffs. did them both for clearance problems - maybe your a bit more a refined fella though.

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For FWD shit it makes a amazing difference to gear shifts having solid mounts, everything just feels better mechanically. IN the honda factory k24 world factory things have pretty floppy engine mounts, common mod is a engine damper which I have messed around with (you can wind them up to solid spec), makes shifting and throttle feel (engine not flopping around with throttle input) way better. Downside is more vibration (NVH), if you solid mount it all then possibly crack some things depending on the setup. You could probably bang one of the many dampers out there to your setup very easily, they are like $150ish, you get no rocking back and forward plus don't have to make new mounts yet.

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Have sampled a few cars with solid mounts, the less cylinders they have the more vibratey and annoying they are, if it's a racecar it probably doesn't matter though

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I ran solid mounts in my civic and wasn’t great cracked afew front windows. I had my standard mounts remade in nolothane made heaps of difference. Carnt remember who did it tho

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Yeah in honda land people tend to run urethane mounts and maybe a torque damper, has a little give but engine cannot tilt forward and back f-all.

 

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45 minutes ago, Early jap nuter said:

I ran solid mounts in my civic and wasn’t great cracked afew front windows. I had my standard mounts remade in nolothane made heaps of difference. Carnt remember who did it tho

Cracked Windows. Damn. Was not expecting that tbh. 

Vibration in terms of car feel is definitely not an issue, would only be an issue in terms of reliability, breakages and hardware issues etc.

The current mounts are quite soft, and even with the low amount of power output, I'm thinking solidifying the mounting would be beneficial. 

2 hours ago, Spencer said:

Thanks, I'll look into these. That's super helpful.

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