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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


Roman

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Battery cable ends.

 

Is there a superior material selection? I have been through a couple of plated copper terminals in pretty short succession, its always the negative which suggests it's under used / not charged often enough which I'd have to say is correct.

 

Are the cast looking brass terminals more corrosion resistant? or is there a magic jizz that will make my cable ends last a bit longer...Under the ball of blue/ green fuzz the battery terminals themselves still look mint on the 3 yo battery. 

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45 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Anyone know where to get this style of strap exhaust mount seen on @Sunbeam's Fiat build thread?

I had a look at Chase but couldn't see anything similar....

IMG_1801.jpeg
 

edit - looks like a Fiat part

image.png.74e77fe4fefb52a14ddcb88d9131cabc.png

If its Fiat and old, then its probably also Lada!

https://ladapower.com/catalog/niva-1600/exhaust-system/lada-niva-2101-2107-exhaust-main-silencer-suspension-rubber-belt-detail

This is my go to for Lada bits if nothing available locally

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Battery charging Q,

I have a sealed lead acid 6v battery.

But no 6v battery charger.  Im fairly sure most battery chargers pump a higher voltage into them than the battery is. (Kinda like using a 125psi air reciever to inflate a tyre to 40spi) 

But will the battery explode if it gets too many electrons ceammed down its throat? (Ive though about charging it u der a bucket to contain any acid that might get sprayed)  

The other thing was, the battery might be fucked. (It sat for a while since i purchased it)  if i solder up for D cells, and hook them in parallel off the battery, will they likely explode if the stystem receives some back charging? (Or will the lead acid cell absorb them instead) 

Fwiw, its a late 1960s honda "50"*

* fifty ish....

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Most of the dual voltage chargers simply switch in a resistance to drop the output as needed. I see a Utube vid of a 12v bulb being used as a resistance. Just try bulbs till you get an outut just over 6v, Watch and check to avoid overcharging.

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Waterproofing paint for a container roof.  Have patched a few leaks on the container roof, and its looking pretty rough. I need to get through the next 8 months. What can i use to paint and seal off any chances of water ingress. 

looking at the likes of this: Elastomeric Paint - Subflex 5000 - House Paint New Zealand  

Because its a cheaper version of this: Liquid Rubber Waterproof Sealant for Roofing & Commercial Waterproofing (cohe.co.nz)

 

I can buy New corrogated iron delivered for $835 in the right colour and have the timber to make a roof over its lid which would be more preferable than about 600+ for 20L of the paint.

 

Is there a more accessible product or anyone have any advise for other ideas?  We are hamilton based.

 

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7 minutes ago, 440bbm said:

Waterproofing paint for a container roof.  Have patched a few leaks on the container roof, and its looking pretty rough. I need to get through the next 8 months. What can i use to paint and seal off any chances of water ingress. 

looking at the likes of this: Elastomeric Paint - Subflex 5000 - House Paint New Zealand  

Because its a cheaper version of this: Liquid Rubber Waterproof Sealant for Roofing & Commercial Waterproofing (cohe.co.nz)

 

I can buy New corrogated iron delivered for $835 in the right colour and have the timber to make a roof over its lid which would be more preferable than about 600+ for 20L of the paint.

 

Is there a more accessible product or anyone have any advise for other ideas?  We are hamilton based.

 

I used a bitumen stuff sika 4L blackseal plus from bunnings to stop water getting into some garbage gazebo sort of thing made from polystyrene. not the easiest to spread, but goes hard / don't get it on your hands. 

https://www.bunnings.co.nz/sika-4l-blackseal-plus-bitumen-waterproofing-membrane_p0443433?store=9527&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwir2xBhC_ARIsAMTXk84SwSYOJlKIM02KNdUtZCPNB3XoAakuisNK5WXIYR2gPiAlxFlSZDIaAiJZEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

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I was looking at that, but it said its not to be in direct UV.  ITM said no way. Have i been led astray?

edit. 

placemakers also said yeh nah bro. 

 

Sika siad dont use it, we dont want you using it on something not deisnged for. * facepalm. wtf is this world coming too!? Im just after advise, would it work and there be no warrenty, and prob last 2 months, 6 months 1 yrs etc before needing a recoat. or it purely wont stick etc. 

too hard basket!

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4 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

The other thing was, the battery might be fucked. (It sat for a while since i purchased it)  if i solder up for D cells, and hook them in parallel off the battery, will they likely explode if the stystem receives some back charging? (Or will the lead acid cell absorb them instead)

Yeah, probs explode (eventually). If the lead acid was healthy, and if the voltages were right, and if there was a Diode to stop the charge back feeding to the Dry cells, you'd get away with it, but if the lead-acid or bike had a drain current, it'd trash those pretty quick. They'd prob provide enough current for the ignition though, it's an interesting idea.

Easiest just to whang it on charge, see how it looks. Giz yell if you need to sort a special battery, but standard 6v should still be around.

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