Doug Hill

You can make a new woodruff key yourself with a little bit of key stock. If you send me the width/length I may have a bit here I can send

Always made me giggle, our old 2005/6 E61 wagon was an IBS (Intelligent Bowel Syndrome) car and needed battery coding, plus sensors etc. My Camry Hybrid and Prius both do not require that. Go figure.

Popped the engine back in at some stupid hour last night. Nice to have the original back in the frame, the spare was from a later ugly era GT. Side note, I am desperate to get the new shed built

The spark plug cover? I'm missing one of those. Seem like hens dicks to find too

Slowly putting the GT125 back together. Built a 20t big bench top press to do the crank, all the cheaper presses I looked at were poxy piles of shit. And of course I didn't take pics once I finished it Ignition timing set. Just finishing off getting the right surface finish on the side covers, it's kinda half ass polished in all the pics and how the bike arrived. So keeping it that way. New old stock emblems coming for the covers. Cases all glass blasted and re-treated, pretty chuffed with how they look. Now on to the carbs, need to remember to order the intake gasket thingymabobs from somewhere, strange wee carbs the VM18s. The resin/phenolic spacer inside the bore is not listed in the Suzuki parts book, but it looks like you can get a newer and much sexier alternative nowadays. So my final hurdle is, some parts of the frame aren't super tidy but it is original paint. I'll have to see how the OCD vs originality battle goes once I put the engine in

We had a mk2 3.2 TT with a little exhaust and I always thought it sounded like a masturbating Wookie. Really lovely motor otherwise

Misalignment will wear splines like that. As will lack of appropriate lube. Check crank thrust too. Then measure the clutch stack height and try find some proper specs for the parts you're using If the stack height is wrong the diaphragm may be touching the disk (almost looks like it has kissed the springs) and this will then eat the clutch and thrust bearings in the engine

Lifan won't bolt in to a 6v CT but will for later 12v bikes, one of the mount holes is in a different spot. Buy a bit of choppychoppyweldyweldy sorts it You can run a 110cc upwards top end but also requires sweet custom mods (either turn the sleeve down or machine the cases to receive the barrel)

They work okay, sometimes they need resizing like any cheap rod. Most rods don't come balanced well enough anyway, I've had some reasonably spendy gear more than 0.1g out and that's only good enough for a low revving potato

1-1.6 depending on what you're replacing. I haven't come across anything 0.8 on any of the ones I've done at work (that I can remember) most stuff I've done on those is 1.2 I think

I'm paying 88+gst for 0.8mm cold rolled, or there abouts

Vauxhall C20 would kind of make sense.

And there we go, I figured it out. Left casing was washed and sprayed with MetalPrep (Phosphoric acid + Zinc Phosphate), poor man's alodine or zincate Right casing is glass bead blasted

So i rushed to farmlands and got some cipper sulfate because i lost my other bag. Did a control test on some zinc fasteners, scotchbrite then dilute copper sulfate, instant black. Gave each part a sneaky scotchbrite. Zero reaction essentially. GregT wins the cookie. Happy i confirmed it with a science though. So I guess I'm looking at conversion coatings for aluminum now. Can't say I've ever seen a paint finish that will replicate it

It wasn't painted, unless it's a tinted clear that replicates passivation. But it did not blast off like paint does on the engine casings They could be aluminum, and that's fine, it just changes the process to replicate the OEM surface finish.

Shows up less on camera, but there's a blue tinge. Just like clear passivate. Problem being, if it's all aluminum it will be difficult to achieve the factory finish

I thought so too, until I went to blast the cases and they appear to be clear/blue passivate, as was the cylinder head. I'll snap a pic inside casings to show. Barrels and most covers appear to be painted or polished aluminum. My later GT motors are all painted though. The other possibility is Zamac or whatever that classic zinc alloy was

Has anyone got any tips identifying zinc vs aluminum castings? Apart from a specific gravity test (hard on complex parts) the only reliable thing I can think of is dilute copper sulfate should turn zinc black and not react with aluminum? My GT125 cases and head were clear/blue passivated, so need to get the process right incase some is aluminum. I suspect the barrels and the stator/points cover are aluminum, they're a lighter colour in person. Pic of glass bead fapped parts

I decided to take the 1100 on an overnight camping trip up to the massive city of Norsewood on the 2nd. Got all packed up and headed out of town, flying along at 70mph, lining up an overtake on a depressing Qashqai. Aaaaand the fuel pump died. Pulled the old girl over and diagnosed it was the pump, which incidentally was the only spare I wasn't carrying because it was a relatively new looking replacement. Can't fix an non-points pump up a side road sadly. Called a mate out, we fitted a generic Chinese ticker pump and all was well. I continued on my way, the speedo stopped working, oh well. The indicators stopped working, oh well. And a couple km away from my destination, plodding down a shingle road....the brakes failed. Neat! Toddled on gently, got to destination and had a looksie, fluid has boiled over in a huge way. Both front wheels are as hot as heck, right rear was warm, left was cold. Assuming a stuck pressure valve. So, Nannie will take a trailer ride home on Saturday and due to how hot the brakes got ill just replace the lot I moved her a few km up the road on the next morning and brakes had re-appeared. But even I wouldn't trust that! And the speedo came back, she's a good girl really. So, a brake rebuild and I really should throw a cooling system at her. And another SU style fuel pump. Fun times

Maybe if you can match one up at Jaycar. Otherwise Corys/Ideals etc may have them.

https://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/film-capacitors/1833310 Should suit your needs. Datasheets for CBB21 say it's 400Vdc rated, 4.7uf.

Just finished resto on this neat toy. Belongs to the boss' wife. She had one many moons ago and it was a nostalgic birthday present. Wasn't meant to be a resto, but due to it being a bit of a shed queen it needed a complete strip down. Turns out it had a cracked frame, because early Honda alloy frame stuff. Local bike shop was meant to put it on the road on behalf of the seller, it was legal to ride but was a pile of shit on the road, forks were "rebuilt" wrong, carbs were rebuilt wrong and way out of sync etcetc

Would be my guess too. Not sure how much knuckle juice I've left under FSDE manifolds by now Coil pack and lead failures isn't uncommon on them either

The part is a Bosch T0068 relay, 7 pin tachometric jobbie. Common to a lot of fairy early injected cars and only needs an analog/old fashioned coil signal

I use a Strata mig at work. Has a duty cycle of one gecko shart. Is okay on medium duty work but still overheats much faster than you would expect.