kpr Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 That honda one may work if its steel like it says. is 6 rib but can zing the side off and weld it back on. fd rx7 is actually smaller, 120mm so aftermarket under drive probably wont get me there, if its a thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted February 25 Share Posted February 25 11 minutes ago, kpr said: That honda one may work if its steel like it says. is 6 rib but can zing the side off and weld it back on. fd rx7 is actually smaller, 120mm so aftermarket under drive probably wont get me there, if its a thing. Try this, it's also got some fitment of you wanted to measure up at a wrwcker https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-300-337-Power-Steering-Pulley/dp/B01M3Q2XGF You can also put part numbers into rockauto. Try this one too 12605677 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 Whats a spray on grey underseal thats a good match for whats factory applied to a 2000s Toyota? I hit something on the road that made a bit of a dent in the floor pan and scraped the underseal off. Panel smashed it good again but need to get some underseal on there to make it look factory again before going for a wof Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 I've got a 3-piece wheel that's got a tiny leak where the halves join. If I use the soapy water on it, it slowly makes foam. The bolts are real tight, I suspect they have never been removed. So I guess the bead of sealant around the join has a hole somewhere. The plan is to clean it real good and see if I can find the hole using compressed air from the outside... But I guess I'm just going to scrape most of the sealant out and run a new bead. But what sealant do I use? Is it the same stuff as roof/gutter sealant, or the stuff for the shower???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 Scrape it all out and run a bead round the join. Smoo it out let it dry and then do a 2nd bead/smoo over the top of that. I used sikaflex 291 because thats what I had lying round and it seems to stick well to the alloy of the bands 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 I've had a three piece do the same, right pain, eventually had to split them, throughly clean the join and put back together (sealant between the pieces was a disaster, i'd not do that again unless someone else has a technique?) 100% what Highlux said is what worked for me on the 3rd attempt. Pretty sure we just used window sealant cos thats what we had. Reliably sticking anything to aluminium is nearly impossible, the steps required to passivate are not easy for at home jobs but having it proper clean is most of the way there, clean off any scale and depending on the sealant, light scuffing with scotchbrite may also help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted March 4 Share Posted March 4 My wheels have the center sandwiched between the barrels so it was extra cunty to get them to seal but I got there eventually although a couple have developed a slow leak after sitting for a couple of years so il revisit it once I need them road worthy again. From memory I scuffed the barrels with a wire wheel on a grinder and lots of brake clean before going to smoo town Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igor Posted March 8 Share Posted March 8 Anyone know if the towbar off an N16 Pulsar (NZ new 2003) will fit onto an N15 Pulsar (JDM 1996) without significant modification? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubastreet Posted March 11 Share Posted March 11 How do I get the end cap off to change the brushes? And why did Hitachi put in two +ve brushes but only one minus? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 Are there screws on the end of the cap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubastreet Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 Just the two long ones that held it together and the two that held the brushes plate on. The little bearing cap seems to be spot welded. I made a shim for the top of the worn negative brush to get the digger back on the road but even after a good clean the solenoid doesn't always engage properly. $200 new one from America is looking like a good option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimShadboltfan27 Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 who are our resident frog enthusiasts? gf's 2007 peugot 307 hdi is giving us dpf additive low warning on dash. my first question, is there a dpf reservoir under the car somewhere we need to top up, or can we biff in an in-tank additive to make the environment okay again? and secondly, what kind of additive do we need? google saying eolys, but cant seem to find any nz suppliers of this shit? google is not definitive with answers, and shes tried a few garages and both have said cant help ya sorry gotta go to peugot dealer. would appreciate any help as modern euro diesel is making my head spin. thanks boes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 1 minute ago, TimShadboltfan27 said: who are our resident frog enthusiasts? gf's 2007 peugot 307 hdi is giving us dpf additive low warning on dash. my first question, is there a dpf reservoir under the car somewhere we need to top up, or can we biff in an in-tank additive to make the environment okay again? and secondly, what kind of additive do we need? google saying eolys, but cant seem to find any nz suppliers of this shit? google is not definitive with answers, and shes tried a few garages and both have said cant help ya sorry gotta go to peugot dealer. would appreciate any help as modern euro diesel is making my head spin. They have a pouch somewhere cant remeber where full of shit that's real bad for you if you spill it . Will probably need to go back to peugot for them to replace it and reset the counter that tells you it's time to replace . It's essentially like adblue but worse 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimShadboltfan27 Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 32 minutes ago, JustHarry said: They have a pouch somewhere cant remeber where full of shit that's real bad for you if you spill it . Will probably need to go back to peugot for them to replace it and reset the counter that tells you it's time to replace . It's essentially like adblue but worse thanks mate. had a crawl under the thing and identified the black box which contains the sack, held by 400 different types of elaborate plastic screws which i will no doubt need a specific tool to undo then break 10 of them which cost 8.99 plus GST each. chahoo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 Holy crap, now I see why non-dpf is listed as a selling point in Europe Is this the same as what you're faced with? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimShadboltfan27 Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 17 minutes ago, NickJ said: Holy crap, now I see why non-dpf is listed as a selling point in Europe Is this the same as what you're faced with? Yea man, not identical but a similar setup. We are dealing with hatch which has slightly different covers and few more things to dismantle to get to it. A hoist would be ideal 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 26 minutes ago, TimShadboltfan27 said: Yea man, not identical but a similar setup. We are dealing with hatch which has slightly different covers and few more things to dismantle to get to it. A hoist would be ideal Nothing I can add but how gross! Quick look through the interwebs about what that "essential" little baggy costs to replace and I want crawl into a corner and cry. I hope that is an easy resolution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 Try adding some adblue to your fuel tank And then when insurance writes the car off, get something not french 2 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87creepin Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 I watched a video where a guy talks about old 4 bolt flange waste gates sounding much nicer than modern v band flange waste gates. this in theory wouldn’t be something easily heard amongst road cars as screamer pipes are illegal right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UTERUS Posted March 12 Share Posted March 12 12 hours ago, cubastreet said: How do I get the end cap off to change the brushes? And why did Hitachi put in two +ve brushes but only one minus? What model starter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.