RUNAMUCK Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 Isnt it adjustable? If you separate the housing, it might need fixing again by a shop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 22 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said: Isnt it adjustable? If you separate the housing, it might need fixing again by a shop? I can make a new end, but I shouldn't need to. It's already wrong so I won't be any worse of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 Slap me if i'm telling you to suck eggs etc. But I recall having to get mine adjusted and just needed a tool the measured the depth of the master vs the poke of the booster, just had to match them up. Easy tool to make, or could just use calipers to measure. Brakes can be such a nightmare, hopefully they have done what they are supposed to have and it's something simple. CBC did a good job of other stuff for me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 I might make one of those tools to get it spot-on, but right now it's 16mm too short for the M/C so something is way out of whack. I understand that the reaction disk is loose and can fall out if the pushrod is pulled forward. Since I got it back from the first shop with the booster separate from the M/C I suspect that's what happened. CBC re-did the M/C, not the booster (yet...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 Ask @fletch how he fixed one of Karl's datsuns the day before hanmer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 24 minutes ago, Nominal said: I might make one of those tools to get it spot-on, but right now it's 16mm too short for the M/C so something is way out of whack. I understand that the reaction disk is loose and can fall out if the pushrod is pulled forward. Since I got it back from the first shop with the booster separate from the M/C I suspect that's what happened. CBC re-did the M/C, not the booster (yet...) Yeah sounds complicated. When I was pissing around with mine the whole rod came out and I lost it in the engine bay. Maybe I was lucky nothing went wrong. Think I pushed the brake pedal with no M/C installed, because smart. I thought they did booster too, was trying to remember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 Failed to get it apart anyway, bent a piece of angle iron trying so will take it back to the shop in Wellington for a discussion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 It's only 11 weeks since it came back on a truck, no need to rush these things. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moparmuppet Posted July 27, 2022 Share Posted July 27, 2022 @sr2 might be a guy to talk to. Simon was trainer for PBR etc if I recall correctly. Worth a crack Nige. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted July 27, 2022 Share Posted July 27, 2022 Booster and MC are back at ABC in Wellington, no news so far. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goat Posted July 28, 2022 Share Posted July 28, 2022 For another $900 rattle can rebuild, returned not operational and with parts missing? 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted July 28, 2022 Share Posted July 28, 2022 41 minutes ago, Goat said: For another $900 rattle can rebuild, returned not operational and with parts missing? Well, I hope not! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr2 Posted July 30, 2022 Share Posted July 30, 2022 Is that the big single diaphragm HQ Mastervac booster? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted July 30, 2022 Share Posted July 30, 2022 7 minutes ago, sr2 said: Is that the big single diaphragm HQ Mastervac booster? HG Holden, dual diaphragm I think. It's still at ABC, will check with them on Monday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr2 Posted July 30, 2022 Share Posted July 30, 2022 1 minute ago, Nominal said: HG Holden, dual diaphragm I think. It's still at ABC, will check with them on Monday. What were the symptoms? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted July 30, 2022 Share Posted July 30, 2022 1 hour ago, sr2 said: What were the symptoms? It's a journey. I blew a rear slave cylinder out back in late Feb, and since I was having to work on the rear brakes I thought it was time to get the booster/MC rebuilt, it's just over 50 years old and never been off the car (I'm pretty sure). The front calipers were rebuilt last year. I took the lot into the brake shop (ABC). They supplied new rear shoes and the slave cylinders easily enough but then took ages to get the booster done. They told me that the were having trouble getting the booster to hold vacuum when reassembled. Eventually they got it to work after replacing (one, both?) diaphragm. (I dunno I thought I was paying them to do that anyway). Instead of rebuilding the original big nut M/C they supplied a new pattern part with an alloy body. They also stripped down the brake warning switch/slider part and put new seals in it. When I put it all back together initially I couldn't get the warning switch slider to reset properly. Later on I've worked out that the pin on the end of the switch is too short so the warning light never actually goes out no matter where the piston is. I took it for a drive up the road but the brakes weren't right, quite grabby at the front (discs) and still felt like the rears weren't working (too much pedal travel). I wasn't even sure that the replaced M/C had the same pipe arrangement, in the stock setup the rear part of the M/C goes to the rear brakes. So I sent the original M/C down to the place in Christchurch who rebuilt it. Thought I'd be sweet, but no. I couldn't get the rear brakes to bleed properly. Eventually I disconnected everything from the rear and just put a return pipe from the rear port back into the M/C, when pushing the brake pedal almost no fluid was coming out the rear port. So I sent the M/C back to Chch to be checked. They sent it back with no notes so I don't know if there was an issue or not. I've made a rig to bench test the M/C and it seemed to be working OK, but when I put it back on the booster the pedal travel was massive so pulled it off again. So after that I had a measure up and worked out that there is about a 15mm gap between the end of the pushrod out of the booster and the push point inside the M/C. Looking into the booster I couldn't really see if the reaction disc was in there (I've done a bit more googling of how boosters work) There didn't seem to be anything loose inside the booster. So, I took the booster and the M/C back to ABC on Monday for them to have a look. I showed them the issue but I haven't heard anything from them. There must be something wrong inside the booster but I don't know what. I did have a go at splitting it, but gave up as the force I was applying seemed excessive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87creepin Posted July 31, 2022 Share Posted July 31, 2022 On a scale of 1 to 10, how bad of a problem is a manual transmission that crunches going into 3rd from 4th and 2nd from 3rd? Hasn't had fluid changed in a while but makes no other strange noises while driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted July 31, 2022 Share Posted July 31, 2022 It can just be the clutch not disengaged fully. Might be worth a check. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted July 31, 2022 Share Posted July 31, 2022 That, and change the oil 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr2 Posted July 31, 2022 Share Posted July 31, 2022 On 30/07/2022 at 17:30, Nominal said: It's a journey. I blew a rear slave cylinder out back in late Feb, and since I was having to work on the rear brakes I thought it was time to get the booster/MC rebuilt, it's just over 50 years old and never been off the car (I'm pretty sure). The front calipers were rebuilt last year. I took the lot into the brake shop (ABC). They supplied new rear shoes and the slave cylinders easily enough but then took ages to get the booster done. They told me that the were having trouble getting the booster to hold vacuum when reassembled. Eventually they got it to work after replacing (one, both?) diaphragm. (I dunno I thought I was paying them to do that anyway). Instead of rebuilding the original big nut M/C they supplied a new pattern part with an alloy body. They also stripped down the brake warning switch/slider part and put new seals in it. When I put it all back together initially I couldn't get the warning switch slider to reset properly. Later on I've worked out that the pin on the end of the switch is too short so the warning light never actually goes out no matter where the piston is. I took it for a drive up the road but the brakes weren't right, quite grabby at the front (discs) and still felt like the rears weren't working (too much pedal travel). I wasn't even sure that the replaced M/C had the same pipe arrangement, in the stock setup the rear part of the M/C goes to the rear brakes. So I sent the original M/C down to the place in Christchurch who rebuilt it. Thought I'd be sweet, but no. I couldn't get the rear brakes to bleed properly. Eventually I disconnected everything from the rear and just put a return pipe from the rear port back into the M/C, when pushing the brake pedal almost no fluid was coming out the rear port. So I sent the M/C back to Chch to be checked. They sent it back with no notes so I don't know if there was an issue or not. I've made a rig to bench test the M/C and it seemed to be working OK, but when I put it back on the booster the pedal travel was massive so pulled it off again. So after that I had a measure up and worked out that there is about a 15mm gap between the end of the pushrod out of the booster and the push point inside the M/C. Looking into the booster I couldn't really see if the reaction disc was in there (I've done a bit more googling of how boosters work) There didn't seem to be anything loose inside the booster. So, I took the booster and the M/C back to ABC on Monday for them to have a look. I showed them the issue but I haven't heard anything from them. There must be something wrong inside the booster but I don't know what. I did have a go at splitting it, but gave up as the force I was applying seemed excessive. LOL, I have to confess I haven’t had one of those in bits for a long, long time. Even when all the internal parts were available new they were pricks of things to work on. The two piece Bakelite valve body had a habit of breaking when you unscrewed them and it was often a mission to get them to hold a vacuum when reassembled. As a rule of thumb if an earlier style tandem PBR Mastervac is is working and most importantly dry inside all I would do is replace the output shaft seal & lubricate, replace the foam air filter and lubricate the input seal. In their defence they were reliable as long as the master cylinder didn’t dump brake fluid into them. Yes the cans are hard to separate, even with a jig it’s quite easy to bend the studs or even rip them out. The trick is to work your way around the lip with a small pry bar to break the seal, even then the diaphragm rubber sticks to the steel can like s*** to a blanket! Another option is to bite the bullet and spend around $500 AU on ebay and buy a new aftermarket booster/master cylinder assembly. https://www.ebay.com/itm/222137052973 I think Flash bought something similar for his Mustang, could be worth contacting him re the supplier. With rear brakes I never trust the self-adjusters, a little extra effort when assembling often avoids excessive pedal travel issues. It’s also important to radius the shoes to fit the drums. Feel free to PM me if there’s anything I can do to help. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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