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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


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22 minutes ago, datlow said:

What sort of compressor?

Belt drive i would go with start cap or centrifugal switch 

3HP belt drive.

Apparently if the start cap is bad, I should be able to 'roll start' it and it should keep going. I can't/it doesn't.

Mine will turn over and seem like it's going to run, then pop the fuse.

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I don't think you understand how mileage works. Cars that are driven wear down over time. One that has done more miles is likely to be more worn. Thus, one with less wear is worth more money in general.

 

As for picking between, how much is 3k in relation to car cost? I'm assuming they aren't costing much so 3k could be a bit steep. That said, service history if any would sway me given the choice. I'd also be checking if the 2015 got any cool features the 2012 didn't etc. I paid more for a facelift model (not swift) as the changes made, made it a worthwhile extra expense.

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Yea I tried a new one 2019ish with lots of whustles but I don't think either have those (not listed) 

Older one is about 6k and newer one is about 9k. It does look a little better in the pics but there's not much in it.  Older one did have service history apparently. 

Wants me to come look this weekend.  I don't think there's anything really that would be alarm bells (like vw dsg spec) 

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7 minutes ago, tortron said:

Typical worn out auto failure?  Like flaring between gears and so on? 

It depends on the exact model, and im not an expert because eww autos, but i believe NZDM cars are normals autos and the JDM imports are CVT. The CVT are reputed to be terribly unreliable, but i dont know what the failure mode is other than it requires a replacement or rebuild.

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2 hours ago, Bling said:

I don't think you understand how mileage works. Cars that are driven wear down over time. One that has done my miles is likely to be more worn. Thus, one with less wear is worth more money in general.

all depends were it done it's mileage.
a 130K car from open road use is a better buy than 130K stuck in traffic

odo is km's travelled, not engine Kms

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I think you'll find the engine has in fact travelled just as far as the rest of the car. Unless it has been replaced.

As for the traffic comment, bit pointless since we don't know either cars driving habits over it's life. A service history at least lets you know how well it's been maintained. I wasn't referring to specifically engine wear, but car wear in general. 

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1 hour ago, Bling said:

I think you'll find the engine has in fact travelled just as far as the rest of the car. Unless it has been replaced.

As for the traffic comment, bit pointless since we don't know either cars driving habits over it's life. A service history at least lets you know how well it's been maintained. I wasn't referring to specifically engine wear, but car wear in general. 

Engine hours make a big difference, as does transmission wear in start stop traffic. I wish ODB2 had an engine running timer, i'd love to see how many hours some of the low KM imports actually have. 

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