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Alex's 1968 'oldman special' HB Viva discussion....


yoeddynz

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Bloody useful link there Dave! (whoops...I swore. sorry) I have book marked it and will read in the morning with a strong coffee.

I opened up the carb tonight and its really clean inside with out the usual signs of gum deposits from old petrol. I think that having put a plug on the float chamber vent hole didn't help matters :rolleyes: I also checked the float chamber valve with my expensive float chamber valve checking apparatus...

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usually a motor wont build boost when idling on the spot, it needs to be under load, unless of course it has anti-lag which was developed to help build boost straight away without load for good launches off the line.

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Good stuff!

Regarding the temp gauge, you could always throw in a variable resistor, use that to calibrate your gauge, then once you're happy with it, check what it's set to and then replace with a normal resistor at that value. Not sure of a ballpark figure to start playing with though.

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cheers guys- yeah bloody happy and quite relieved- especially as its the first rotary engine I've rebuilt. Wasn't hard but just new things to learn and look for eh.

Good meeting ya too Billy- will stay in touch about that cert man.

A variable resistor- like something I just wire ine series and can turn a knob? That sounds good. Where? Jaycar?

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Get a 0-1k Ohm pot, that should give you heaps much range to get it into spec. I think temp sensors are normally positive temp co-oefficient, they incresase resistance with higher temperature, but you might want to check that with a multimeter and a pot of water on the stove.

*warning - techno-babble below*

If they do increase resistance with higher temp, then you'll want to wire the pot in series with the sender, this makes things easy as it'll all stay nice and linear... Get it up to normal operating temp and set the pot so the gauge is in the normal temp range. The problem you might strike here is that the sender may have a different range than the factory vauxhall one, so you might not use the full sweep of the gauge. No really a problem aslong as your aware of it.

If the sender decreases resistance with higher temp you'll want to wire it the pot in parallel with the gauge. All those older style of gauges are just amp meters, so if its this way around, and the gauge is recieving to much current and going full scale, you need to shunt some of the current away from the gauge to ground. Using the same process you'll be able to get it working alright :)

What was the reason you can't use a vauxhall temp sender?

Swing me a PM/text if your after a seperate temp gauge, should be able to sort something :). The ones I'm going to use in my mini are pretty damn cheap, but they do the job, and dont look to ricey :)

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I might be talking smack, but is that carburator going to be big enough to feed a boosted rotor? I realise that it's quite a big hole, but they used to run two of them on a 4 litre jag..............

I'd hate to see you lean out a motor you just built.

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Yeah the carb is big enough. Elford converted about 500 cars and they received good press about the performance.

Cheers zac for techno babble. What i did yesterday morning was buy a 0-500 ohm? pot from jaycar- all of $3.50 :) I wired it in series and so that turning it clock wise would make needle go up. Then I installed my temp probe on multi meter in side top hose. I started engine and when temp on meter read 40 i adjusted viva gauge to read 40. at 70 they were the same. At 90 it was ever so slightly out so I tweeked it as this is the important area. Now viva gauge was spot on I marked position on pot and will take it out, measure the resistance (was about turned about 3/4) and buy a resistor to suit.

Now I also know that fan switch doesn't work. I took it out, put it in a pot on stove and it switched on at about 96! Bugger. I had bought it second hand from local radiator place and he thought it was a 85 degree one. I'm actually not that sure what I should have the fan set to turn on at- I think 85-90 is about right on a rotary?

photos...

Adjustable resistor pot thingee..

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Multi meter visible from seat..

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The fan switch- is this a common looking style?..

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hey, just make sure you get a resistor with atleast the correct power rating, if your potentiometer resistance was about 400 ohm (lets forget about the resistance of the temperature probe to be on the safe side) then you would want atleast:

I = V/R = 14.5/400 = 0.03625 amps (alternator voltage is 14.5 V, not 12 V as people commonly assume)

P = V * I = 14.5 * 0.03625 = 0.527 Watts

So I'd get a 0.75 W resistor (at 400ohms) to be safe (higher rated makes no difference but ensures it will handle the current)

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