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Alex's 1968 'oldman special' HB Viva discussion....


yoeddynz

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Be careful with using those rims - the cert plate will state the size and width of the rims - if you change from what the cert plate says - technically you have to recert the vehicle.

If the rims you are using are within coo-eee to the steels width (must be the same diameter) then you should be more or less fine.

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its $60 to get the rim size rechecked and changed my cert plate on my ke30 says 14x6 and im running 13x7 wof guys have never said a thing had a few cars and were running different size wheels to the cert plate with no issues at all

hope the cert has gone well for ya

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Its all cool man!!! :D The passed its cert with flying colours. :D:D:D

Certification man Kendall Bradley from Nelson turned up this morning in a cool old hotrod and went over the car top to bottom. He was pretty impressed the the build and just made sure I had done the right things like fitted crush tubes were my engine crossmember was bolted through chassis. I had taken photos of that and showed him so he was happy.

Then we went for the drive. He loved it! After a good decent drive with some brake tests of course 'acceleration testing' we headed back into town. He then said " I'm really impressed with this car.. its so quiet and smooth that you would never guess its anything but a standard old Viva"

That was cool. :D Yep I'm a happy man. Car ran well and gets better every time its driven. I think months of rich cold starts are getting blown out and the engine is settling in too after being cobbled back together after the rebuild.

I also showed him my widened steels and he reckoned they look well made. He said its up to me but I can just put them back on once the cert plate is in place etc as the sizes on both wheels sets are the same 13 x 6" but to cover myself I could always get one crack tested and see if it comes up cool.

He also said "now dont go out and drive it till the plate turns up because you dont want to get a green sticker!" But thats cool because we are heading back to Nelson later anyway. When the plate arrives hopefully next week I'll come back over and do the wof recheck. Cant wait! :)

Oh yeah- its was all nice and sunny for the whole process and then just after he left it began bucketing it down. Lucky.

The only thing noted was the rear bushes are soft and under really hard acceleration the axle moves and self steers the back of the car across the road. He noted down that I need to replace the bushes so I'll get a set. Any ideas on where I could get nolathane bushes for it at a nice price? Anyone on here have connections?...

I know superpro make them as they are the same ones as LC Toranas.

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Aww shucks- you guys make me blush (looks for blushing smilie but can t find one- inserts this instead...) :reindeer: (wtf)

Before we head back to nelson I jacked the car up and removed one upper trailing arm. The bushes are quite soft- not perished but just soft. If anyone does have links in the industry to getting cheap Superpro bushes or similar please do let me know. I just priced up the superflex ones in blighty- $320 just for the rear end! (8 bushes)!!!

What's the deal with making adjustable top links so you can point the diff head up or down? what does that do? Something about stopping vibrations in the prop shaft, like this bloke mentioned in his Viva thread..

http://www.vauxhallviva.com/forum/viewt ... 2&start=50

Anyone here have experience this theory?

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Not sure what super pro ones are but I can enquire about urethane bushes and see whats available. I have fairly good connections at BnT

Is this the part you are after?

http://www.nolathane.com.au/product_det ... mber=45008

tn_45008.jpg

One kit is enough to do 2 upper OR 2 lower arms - ie 4 bushes - if you want to do all 4 arms (8 bushes) then you will need 2 kits or 1 of these kits

http://www.nolathane.com.au/product_det ... r=EVOHOL1R

tn_EVOHOL1R.jpg

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Yeah keep a look out as maybe next week I'll be cruising through Renwick.

Cheers chris- i think thems the ones except they have metal sleeved exteriors whereas all the other lower wrm bushes I have seen plus the original ones look like this...

http://www.superflex.co.uk/proddetail.p ... 70-80-4KSS

With sides to stop them rubbing the arms metal to metal. I think the ones you have pictured are the two that are pressed into the top of the axle.

I'm leaving internet land now and heading back to the truck in the valley where we disappear from existence. So replies may be late till I next get access to the greater world..

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What's the deal with making adjustable top links so you can point the diff head up or down? what does that do? Something about stopping vibrations in the prop shaft, like this bloke mentioned in his Viva thread..

http://www.vauxhallviva.com/forum/viewt ... 2&start=50

Anyone here have experience this theory?

i made adjustable top arms using an adjuster from i think an MR2 (left and right threaded sleeve with studs sticking out each end, really easy to cut the ends off and weld your ends on) and i made adjustable lower arms by threading the inside of the tube then making a "bolt" that i weld to the other half of the arm.

i had the nose of the diff pointing down by about 4 degrees (in relation to the rest of the driveshaft) which is way to much according to the books. but when i changed it to 1-2 deg it made it worse. ive been stuffing about with it for ages and its still not right.

if you dont have any driveline vibration at the back then dont fuck with it. my car was sweet for 9 years until i started stuffing about with it........

oh, the reason i made the adjustable arms is because the people who did my diff conversion stuffed up the mounting brackets and my thrust angle was at 5 degrees, so i had to move one wheel forward. i never made them to tilt the diff head.

hope this is of some use...

sheepers.

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