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Dustys 89 Hairdressermobile (mx5)


Dusty

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nice car, feel like sharing the theory on that launch control? i too like useful things that never get used :lol: or rather i just like homemade electronics

useing microcontroller (arduino) it reads rpm from the dissy and if it hits or goes above cutrpm (4500) it cuts the spark wires from the ecu to the coils by relay. cuttime is about 200ms and after that 200ish ms it unpowers the relay so spark can go through again.

i also added in so it self adjusts the cut time so it keeps it as close to the desired rpm (cut for to long and rpm will drop below desired, to short and it will not drop the rpm enough) thats why the sound changes in the video.

if you want to know more just ask.

anyway small update.

intake manifold is slowly getting done.

DSC03757.JPG

DSC03758.JPG

its going to look shoddy and perform shoddy but i dont care solong as it doesnt leak.

as you can see theres a reason i decided not to become an engineer.

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One of my old customers has a BPT in his MX5? Unsure if he used the 1600 gearbox or not

probably GTX internals into the B8 block, this is the best way to go, use the N/A rods and just get forgend pistons etc. Ideally the 1600 block is the one too boost as they go alot harder than the 18s, ive seen a high comp 1600 running 5 pound and it would dick an 1800 boosting way more.

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that rpm limiter is the same theory that i had a while ago, just scared to try it cause i didn't know much about what the effects could be, how much do you reckon it would cost to throw one together? trying to decided if i should have a go, ive got a couple PICAXEs laying around. any reason why they shouldn't be used?

im also thinking.. could the same circuit be used to create a kill switch to make it harder to steal?

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One of my old customers has a BPT in his MX5? Unsure if he used the 1600 gearbox or not

probably GTX internals into the B8 block, this is the best way to go, use the N/A rods and just get forgend pistons etc. Ideally the 1600 block is the one too boost as they go alot harder than the 18s, ive seen a high comp 1600 running 5 pound and it would dick an 1800 boosting way more.

ok from wikipedia

BP

The 1,839 cc (1.839 L; 112.2 cu in) BP is a dual-overhead variant of the B8

# 1994-1998 Mazda Familia (Japanese Market)

# 1994-1997 Mazda MX-5/Miata (did not have VICS until 1999)

BPT

Mazda BPT - Turbocharged 1.8L

The BPT is a turbocharged and intercooled variant of the BP

1989-1994 Mazda Familia GT-X (Japan)

solomiata:

Many people have used the less expensive FWD based BP8 motors when doing a performance engine build-up or when they are looking for a replacement engine from junkyards vs a genuine Miata engine

talking about bp compared to b6

The 1.8 is the same design and is just as robust as the 1.6. It has the same rods, same oil-cooled pistons, same oil passages, same head design and same crank design

Since the 1.8 is really just a stretched 1.6, most everything on the front and back of the motor will interchange between the them. This includes the cam angle sensor, coolant intake pipes, flywheel/clutch assembly, various covers and brackets, cam gears, water pump, and timing belt tensioner, etc. The intake manifold, exhaust manifold, motor mount brackets and camshafts do not interchange because of the bore spacing differences. The 1.8 ‘B’ motor has also seen duty in the 1991-1995 Ford Escort GT/LXE, 1990-99 Mazda Protege, 1991-95 Mercury Tracer LTS and Kia Sephia GS. (FYI, the 90-93 Escort GT and Tracer LTS 1.8 DOHC use the same throttlebody and flowmeter as the 1.6 Miata). There was also a SOHC 1.8 used for a short period in the 1990-93 Protege.

that rpm limiter is the same theory that i had a while ago, just scared to try it cause i didn't know much about what the effects could be, how much do you reckon it would cost to throw one together? trying to decided if i should have a go, ive got a couple PICAXEs laying around. any reason why they shouldn't be used?

im also thinking.. could the same circuit be used to create a kill switch to make it harder to steal?

i already had the controller so it was like $40 in parts

magnetic reed switch (to go on the clutch)

2 push switches one for lc and one for shift lights

2 5ms relays

and one random relay

could defently be used as a kill switch as it did it on mine. when the controller was powered off it was grounding the signal from the dizzy so the ecu didnt think the engine was turning over so no spark. put a relay in between so the controller could fireup.

theres two ways of doing it, spark cut or fuel cut.

if you have a turbo motor spark cut will help spool the turbo but can create explosions inside the exhaust due to unburnt fuel.

fuel cut is safer and is the same thing that is used for rpm/speed cut

i used sparkcut cus i wanted to shoot flames =D doesnt work though :(

picaxe should be fine so long as you know how to program it. i used arduino because its piss easy to use and i already had it.

ooh and you will need to be able to debug like read the rpm the picaxe is getting so you can work out the math to convert pulsewidth into rpm.

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Sounds like my next rainy day project =D, ever had the guts to try flat shift with your limter? if anyone else is interested i could do a build thread in the other projects for one of these.

i havent built it so i could.it gets a lot of interference so if i had it continuously running it would keep cutting randomly. made me stall once trying it. if i could fix the interfarance id defently add it in but im to shit at electronics to know how.

its -5 volts key on

pulses high

if i ground it ecu wont get the pulse

when using ma shift lights as soon as i get within 1000 rpm of the rpm the light should turn on at it starts randomly blinking from interfarance -.-

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do not clean it, leave as is

i like this

as badass as it would look it would rust inside.

pink or some other rand color

Funny how some do it so right.

And others just...

i know its shoddy it just my cheap turbo swap. ill do a really sexy swap and overhaul in a couple of years. but for now cheap is the way to go.

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ok the rust stays then. im still going to paint the inside though as i dont want it rusting at all. also paint might block off any tiny air holes :P

should have this finished next week and ill start on the exhaust mani. its getting wrapped in heatproof tape. dont convince me otherwise. topmount turbo btw

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