Dusty

Does it come with all the ends notched? Either way thats not a bad price really considering the pipe is $30 a meter. the footings are just 3mm plate made into boxes, you need to have the plate running parallel with the body steel and then build a box off that. Im remaking the main hoop footings atm so ill take pics when they're done. Iv opted to cut out the little corner bit behind the seats to run the plates a bit better. If you're ok with cutting it out you can just mount a plate to the floor and run the main hoop right down to it. only reason im not is because i fucked it up Iv read about fitting the rx7 hub like that and agree it seems like a good way to make it weaker, I might end up going with it or something similar until i go full custom on everything..

I sold the red one i brought, You probably saw my workmates one, I sold him my wheels. Im an apprentice at Fagans, The place comes in handy for one off tools like the drill press, press and the like. I do spend a lot on tools though. Thanks everyone for the compliments,

I didnt know there were/are any for a mx, iv just been looking online for what i like the look of. iv been keeping dimensions of this one so if your interested i could bend it up the same or give you the dimensions you need if you have a bender. Im still not sure, its going to be one of the last things to tackle. It will be going 5 stud though.

Time for an update of all things. Drilled and tapped the OMP oil supply. IMG_20131201_111239 by Dustybike, on Flickr Fitted all the bungs using jb weld. IMG_20131201_113259 by Dustybike, on Flickr IMG_20131201_113336 by Dustybike, on Flickr IMG_20131128_180540 by Dustybike, on Flickr IMG_20131128_180550 by Dustybike, on Flickr Just used thread tape on the OMP feed hole and front cover oil supply. IMG_20131203_181440 by Dustybike, on Flickr IMG_20131203_182915 by Dustybike, on Flickr Nice new bearings in the stationary gears. IMG_20131204_175818 by Dustybike, on Flickr Ported the exhaust ports, I didn't go as large as i was thinking as i couldn't be bothered making an exhaust sleeve to suit. Stupid photo but i never took more of them finished, i beveled edges so its quite smooth, hopefully i wont see any chipped apex seals. IMG_20131025_153326 by Dustybike, on Flickr IMG_20131225_134940 by Dustybike, on Flickr I ended up sending the rotating assembly and plates to Rotorsport Racing. He did a awesome job lightening, side clearencing, balancing the rotors and assembly and polished the e shaft. Ended up just attacking the plates with wet and dry as apparently fd ones need re nitrating when they're skimmed. 20130917_120511 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130917_120939 by Dustybike, on Flickr Painted the housings and plates, I wanted to do gunmetal grey on the housings but couldn't find any and didn't want to go white on black and have a zebra engine so just went black on black. IMG_20131201_203141 by Dustybike, on Flickr Stuck the apex seals together using loctite 401. its just strong enough to hold the springs in place in the engine and should melt away once running. IMG_20131225_163934 by Dustybike, on Flickr Ground the side seals to length and assembled the rotors. IMG_20131225_162638 by Dustybike, on Flickr Then got stacking. IMG_20131226_113637 by Dustybike, on Flickr IMG_20131226_115343 by Dustybike, on Flickr IMG_20131226_120327 by Dustybike, on Flickr IMG_20131226_122440 by Dustybike, on Flickr After secrewing up the end float by having the plate that the needle bearing sits on upside down i got 0.11 mm of play had a spacer machined down and then assembled it with the plate the right way up ended up with no play and probabily squished bearings. Got new bearings and assembled it properly with my old spacer and was left with 0.05mm of float just nicely within spec so have finally finished assembling it. IMG_20140113_182637 by Dustybike, on Flickr IMG_20140113_190908 by Dustybike, on Flickr IMG_20140113_194113 by Dustybike, on Flickr I also got a thermal pellet block off and filter housing bypass thing. 969402_10152052070552962_1650995955_n by Dustybike, on Flickr Have been potering along with the cage as well, I need to get hold of my mates mig and get it finished. My tig skills arnt up to the task. And i cut more shit out of the car above the diff. Wouldn't have fit a fuel tank there anyways. IMG_20140102_155445 by Dustybike, on Flickr

Awesome work, engine bay looks so, so tidy.

Cheers. The diff should hold up fine. fuck its heavy enough to. I meant my mounts, Not sure how they will handle the twisting load. Cheers. yeah tell me bout it, bloody fd parts. I think ill probably get the fd and na shafts cut and welded in the mean time. I havent had much luck finding a hub/bearing combo to fit the standard knuckle. Ill have a go, Iv never been on the track before so will be terrible at everything

Sick, looking really good. video is awesome as usual

So lately, I drilled and tapped the 2 coolant lines coming off the rear housing that usually feed the heater core and the other to the throttle body i think. Replaced the rotor bearings, you can see the difference in the oil groove between standard and race 20130827_175117 by Dustybike, on Flickr Chamfered the oil holes on the e shaft 20130821_191333 by Dustybike, on Flickr I removed the e shaft oil squirters again and brought some webber jets Just ground down the extra bits of metal that normally catch the ball bearing, as far as im aware this essentially turns them into the factory race squirters. Then pressed in the webber jets with some jb weld for safety 20130822_153513 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130822_160753 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130822_163657 by Dustybike, on Flickr Sent most of the engine off for machining and balancing. And finally got the diff mount finished. I had to make the mounts quite high as the fd diff is quite tall. I dont have all that much faith in it but it will do untill it breaks. 20130903_190022 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130903_190106 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130903_190046 by Dustybike, on Flickr Also had a go with the tube bender, works perfectly. Made the main hoop for the cage. overbent the sides slightly but otherwise its a really nice tight fit. 20130825_143622 by Dustybike, on Flickr

Nice build, not fucking about. do a skid

I might order a strait fitting and see how it goes, id prefer them not sticking out looking ugly/leaking I havent used a restriction for the squirters, the hole is 2mm so thaught meh. im seriously considering putting the check balls back in though. i dont really want to have to tear it down if it ends up in a street car. Yeah it looks like it, seems odd going to all that effort and not to do the loopline mod..

Cheers, I had done a lot of searching for the oil mods but never found many pictures so thats why i posted all of them. Are your fittings NPT strait? mine are tapered. if i trim them they wont go in any further as its the width of the hole thats stopping them. Ill try get the threads a bit better but otherwise find some suitable lock tight. only planning on running the standard reg. its ment to be 115 psi so should do Nah just the pump as the controller is so damn expensive. Ill just run it on a switch in the mean time and make a controller for it later

Finally got around to building a tube bender my design by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130811_161711 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130811_161619 by Dustybike, on Flickr Ordered some tube to go in it today.. Drive line bits arrived, fd drive shaft, half shafts, power plant frame and 2 pairs of front calipers 20130811_161744 by Dustybike, on Flickr Bearings and the rest of the seals arrived. 20130814_181516 by Dustybike, on Flickr Also gates and stuff turned up. Two mvr 44mms, Tial Q, Davies craig water pump and two Deatsch werks dw200 fuel pumps. 20130814_180918 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130814_180956 by Dustybike, on Flickr Will get the bearings in and drill, tap and plug the coolant hose for the ac then send the engine off for machining. Looking at sending it to mazspares in auckland, anyone have any feedback on them?

coming along really well, cant wait to see it run

tapped the oil feeds. i wasnt brave enough to drill to far down on the left one so it only secrews in about 5mm, hopefully it will do. 20130729_182049 by Dustybike, on Flickr Finished porting on the oil pump 20130730_171859 by Dustybike, on Flickr tidied up the primary and secondry port runners and poorly port matched them 20130730_173909 by Dustybike, on Flickr drilled and taped all the sump bolt holes from 6mm to 8mm, i need to go back through with a finishing tap of some sort though. 20130803_130816 by Dustybike, on Flickr Most of my internal parts arrived, all new water and oil seals, oil control rings, all factory springs, side and corner seals. and ra super seal apex seals. Still waiting on bearings and a couple more seals that are ex japan. 20130803_185603 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130803_185540 by Dustybike, on Flickr Should have more driveline parts arriving next week

cheers, yeah its not cheap, i get some discount working at a mazda dealership but it doesnt help much. ordered them today though

More oil mods To block off the oil feed that runs from the rear plate to the front through the dowels i taped the front and rear housings with a 12x1.75, also did the oil feed that runs from the oil pump to the front cover. 20130722_173749 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130724_182251 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130724_182510 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130724_190421 by Dustybike, on Flickr I needed a better way to hold the plates in the drill than in a vice so made this, just some plate in a T but worked well 20130727_125439 by Dustybike, on Flickr Removed the copper plugs in the front plate and drilled the gallery to the front stationary gear out from about 6.5mm to 10mm 20130722_182342 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130723_181523 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130723_185120 by Dustybike, on Flickr And the rear. it tapers from 10mm down to about 8.5mm. just drilled it to 10mm 20130727_133029 by Dustybike, on Flickr Finally drilled the gallery from the oil pump from 10mm to 12.5mm 20130727_145123 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130727_144651 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130727_145028 by Dustybike, on Flickr Put the stationary gears back in the plates and drilled them a bit to match the gallery's 20130727_145937 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130727_150002 by Dustybike, on Flickr then drilled their oil lines from 7mm to 8mm. i would have gone bigger but was limited by the lip bit. fronts went smoothly 20130727_151437 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130727_151614 by Dustybike, on Flickr The rear was a bit out to start with and going bigger didnt really help so i tried to port it out a bit to match the oil ring. its a real tight space though 20130727_151406 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130727_153331 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130727_160547 by Dustybike, on Flickr and ported the oil inlets 20130727_160415 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130727_160501 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130727_160516 by Dustybike, on Flickr Im waiting on a 3/8 ntp tap to turn up so i can add an 10 fittings to the front plate for the front stationary gear and oil pump lines. fyi 1/2 inch ntp is to large. to explain whats going on oil normally flows from the rear plate below the oil filter through the dowels to the front stationary gear feed, this is about 3 90degree bends. im doing whats called a loop line mod where you run an external oil line directly to the stationary gear greatly improving oil flow. also when plates crack the do it around the rear dowel leaking oil. this avoids the leaking oil part. Blocking off the front cover oil flow saves another 3 90 degree bends and feeds strait out the side of the plate. It blocks off the front oil metering valve and omp though. provided you have a low idle and warm the engine up properly before using it this shouldn't be a problem.

A bit of progress. ported the oil pump, mainly the inlet, ill make the outlet better once the line has been drilled out. 20130715_180550 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130715_180604 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130715_183233 by Dustybike, on Flickr removed the balls and springs from the oil squirters on the eccentric shaft. bit of jb weld to hold them back in. 20130718_184754 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130718_184809 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130718_185611 by Dustybike, on Flickr Have been practicing/testing exhaust ports on a spare housing. Opens about 5mm sooner and closes close to stock. also 5mm wider on each side so i can maintain a reletively smooth flow with the exhaust sleeves removed. 20130718_191054 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130718_191146 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130718_191537 by Dustybike, on Flickr Also brought this thing. holset hx50 20130717_191733 by Dustybike, on Flickr

So i lost motivation for this for a while. I missed having something fun to drive so i sold my stagea runaboat and brought another mx5. 20130525_101440 by Dustybike, on Flickr Its higher than that now because i got green stickered about a week after lowering it and the fines havent really stopped since. Has my teins and wheels on it, up side is i have a better hard top now. Anyway I did something to the blue one this weekend. Trans tunnel made from 2 mm plate, Comes up 40mm around the shifter. Ill weld it in next week I just need to dremel around the shifter hole and cut the tunnel out more before i do. 20130706_160927 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130706_150347 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130706_150338 by Dustybike, on Flickr And did the front fenders. Making them aero wasnt working how i wanted. The bonnet still doesnt line up properly but its closer with the new bumper. 20130707_143613 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130707_143628 by Dustybike, on Flickr

I had never thought of stones, will be pretty funny down a newly sealed road spitting stones out both sides. That clear vinal sounds like a good idea though, when i get paint i might go with it. That's ages away though :/

Iv made some actual progress this weekend, I brought a welder a 200a ac/dc tig / plasma from the tool shed and finally got all setup. I also brought a nb front (bonnet, fenders, lights, bumper and smash panel) from mx5 mart but hes given me a nb2 bumper so it doesnt fit at all. the rest is nb1 stuff just because i prefer the look. Also got a pair of window regulators because i havent had working windows in so long and a dash surround because i havent had that either.. anywhore. pics: my very first tig weld 20130223_104413 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130223_174258 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130224_105519 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130224_153029 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130224_153022 by Dustybike, on Flickr panel steel with a tig is a shit time but its getting there this is the insparation for whats going on there, i just need panel steel to finish it because i munted the old fender -.- images by Dustybike, on Flickr

So i dummy mounted the engine and trans, it was on a terrible angle trying to leave room for the 80mm sump, it seems other people that used the s6 gearbox dropped the subframe about a inch. Obviously im not keen on monster truck status I dropped the engine to 50mm and cut out far more transmission tunnel than i would have liked but it sits pretty level now 20130209_172715 by Dustybike, on Flickr Also cut off the front.. 12.6kgs of weight saving though Moved the shifter back 40mm from stock, I prefer it closer and it should let me sit the steering rack just in front of the engine about 60mm higher than stock. The subframe is going to take a bit of modding though. 20130209_110043 by Dustybike, on Flickr

dope! 15x9? offset?

I got the "book" 20130116_190817 by Dustybike, on Flickr 20130116_190827 by Dustybike, on Flickr Large enough and expensive enough though not greatly helpful to my cause. Ill give Julian another call tomorrow and have a chat. This is what i was wanting to do with the sweet red lines being tube: mx5 by Dustybike, on Flickr

wow, very nice work. not running an external?