Bling Posted December 6, 2022 Share Posted December 6, 2022 Can you not get access? I used to just glove up and brush paint over the epoxy repairs usually. Often blindly then i'd just take a photo and see where I missed. Depends where the repair is too, can get that goop that covers everything in sills etc. Chuck up example situation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted December 6, 2022 Share Posted December 6, 2022 Do your best bog the rest. You can only do what you can do, anything is better than rust left in place. If you can enclose it inside something that stops moisture getting to it I'm sure you'll be sweet. Plenty of repairs don't get a full treatment due to no access. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted December 11, 2022 Share Posted December 11, 2022 7 hours ago, Kerry-TGI said: Looking to upgrade on spray gun. Probably max I'd wanna go would be $500 region. Any recommendations? I can still use my cheap gun for primer so it just has to be something I can get a decent finish from. Also curious what other DIY shed dwellers use for their gun cleaning set up I bought one of these Devilbiss Finishline a few years back, seems OK but I'm no pro painter. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/building-renovation/tools/airtools-compressors/spray-guns/listing/3897247916 At the time it was a lot cheaper to order it from a UK website. For cleaning I just make a mess with thinners and a small brush kit. Worst part of spray painting tbh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted December 14, 2022 Share Posted December 14, 2022 On 11/12/2022 at 23:22, Kerry-TGI said: Looking to upgrade on spray gun. Probably max I'd wanna go would be $500 region. Any recommendations? I can still use my cheap gun for primer so it just has to be something I can get a decent finish from. Also curious what other DIY shed dwellers use for their gun cleaning set up Buy an iwata w400 I bought one and used it almost every day for work for about a year. It's no 2k SATA. But for the money they are brilliant. Also get a pressure gauge for the inlet. Makes the bottom of the gun a little more bulky but then it takes the guess work out of setting pressures just right . 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted December 14, 2022 Share Posted December 14, 2022 I got this kit a few years ago ( or at least one pretty similar), has been fine for home jobs, and the little gun was handy for the terrible job of painting roll cages. Pretty sure it was a bit cheaper than that when I got mine but goes hard for what it is etc.. https://www.amazon.com/DeVilbiss-802342-StartingLine-Gravity-Spray/dp/B000KSTFJO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benno Posted December 18, 2022 Share Posted December 18, 2022 I've decided it's time for a compressor upgrade, my current supercheap direct drive one is very noisy and struggles to keep up when spraying large panels. Any thoughts on this one? Intended mostly for painting and sandblast cabinet, I don't have any other air tools. https://www.thetoolshed.co.nz/product/552-toolshed-belt-drive-compressor-3hp-50l-12-5cfm?categoryId=2179 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted December 18, 2022 Share Posted December 18, 2022 1 hour ago, Benno said: I've decided it's time for a compressor upgrade, my current supercheap direct drive one is very noisy and struggles to keep up when spraying large panels. Any thoughts on this one? Intended mostly for painting and sandblast cabinet, I don't have any other air tools. https://www.thetoolshed.co.nz/product/552-toolshed-belt-drive-compressor-3hp-50l-12-5cfm?categoryId=2179 you can't stretch the budget to the 16CFM unit ? 12cfm will run tools / guns etc, but at a pinch, and will need good water traps to remove condensate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted December 18, 2022 Share Posted December 18, 2022 Yeah you want the biggest one possible, even the best single phase machines run too much when painting a car will run all the time on the blasting cabinet. Look for a 15A plug one with 3hp there are even 20A plug 4hp single phase units out there that are probably getting in the ballpark of the correct air delivery for painting and blasting. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted December 18, 2022 Share Posted December 18, 2022 Will depend on budget too, the big units are big money. I would suggest Marquip 16, new or second hand, but new they go for silly money. So it makes it harder to recommend. Have seen them pop up for pretty reasonable prices second hand though, so if not in a hurry, that would be worth watching for. Before I got mine, I was looking at other options such as running two smaller units in tandem with a storage tank they both filled to. Also depends what you have now and how much more air you think you could get away with. That unit you linked might give you twice the air and manage to keep your usage happy. It is the sort of tool you hang on to long term, so if spending a bit more saves you paying someone to paint your ride, a spendy unit can still be a good investment. Bigger is better, but you may well be able to manage your usage with that unit you linked. It will likely smash the direct drive you already have. At that price... you could almost grab another if you find it lacking down the road, which so long as you have the power to run them, for $1200 I can't see anything else offering up 17CFM of FAD for even double that price. Or just grab one and ignore my ramblings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunbeam Posted December 18, 2022 Share Posted December 18, 2022 I have the 16cfm toolshed one. GHFWII and hard to look past for the money. Edit: just looked and it’s on special for 899 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benno Posted December 19, 2022 Share Posted December 19, 2022 My budget is a bit thin, I've just got a new gun (the one linked by @mjrstar) and need a new hose too. I realise the 16 cfm will be better than the 12.5 CFM, but realistically I'll only end up using it to paint a whole car a few times and my sandblast cabinet is only really good for small stuff anyway. I'll keep an eye out for a used higher spec compressor. If I don't find anything good, how bad would the 12.5 CFM one be? Would it still do the trick, provided I had a good water trap system on it? My painting so far has been with a supercheap direct-drive 180 LPM jobbie. It's been noisy as hell and I need to take regular breaks to let it fill up again. I wouldn't paint a whole car with it, but it was all good for priming, engine bay, boot etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted December 19, 2022 Share Posted December 19, 2022 Does anyone mix their epotec 408 by weight and have the numbers? I used the digital kitchen scales and weighed 500ml (in a mixing cup) of hardener and 500ml of the 408 and came up these numbers. I didn't get around to weighing the thinners... Someone sanity check this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted December 19, 2022 Share Posted December 19, 2022 Yeah they all cook the books on the air delivery numbers. Usually go off power draw/motor size as basically none of them will have any magic that make the pump itself hugely more efficient than the others. The physics will dictate you need X amount of power for the piston to displace X amount of air with only a small difference in efficiency in pump designs. The 3hp ones on 10A plugs are mostly bullshit, you really just want to buy a decent brand that needs a 15A plug. It will paint a car but run all the time, on the blast cabinet it will run all the time, run out of air completely pretty quick and piss water. So like the minimum IMO is a decent 15A compressor and it will still be annoying. You want like 10hp three phase in a ideal world. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted December 19, 2022 Share Posted December 19, 2022 My one is an ingersoll rand ec1400/ 9222XVB Pump is a ss3 which is rated at 12cfm when with a 2hp motor (or 17 with a 3hp) Can almost keep up when painting, so it does actually turn off some of the time. I have a oil air trap at the tank then a disposable filter at the gun and water coming through hasn't been a problem for me. Paints a whole car just fine, for a garage job. For you painting one car, then I'd say get similar, it will be fine. The options for a home compressor, single phase, is pretty dissapointing if you want to do more, 3 phase is really the way to go. Set up some trap pipes on your wall to let any water condense out if you have problems 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted December 20, 2022 Share Posted December 20, 2022 Yeah agree that depending on your gun a single phase will keep up with painting, but they do run almost all the time depending where its placed it can be annoying. Invest in a a decent trap at the compressor and the one on the gun off you go. So get what you can afford to get the car done. It really goes south on the blast cabinet, like it will piss you off waiting for it after 3min of blasting. I am cynical after fucking around with a bunch of compressors, turns out you really need shit loads of power to squash air. When I live on a ranch Ill get a 10hp Honda petrol one and build a house for it or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted December 20, 2022 Share Posted December 20, 2022 Yeah im all about fuel powered ones , single phase just dont have that 18hp vangaurd grunt. i remember the diesel one on the back of the work UD could run a workshop bar the big bertha inch gun , and i suspect that was because it was running through too smaller lines. Ling post 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted January 2, 2023 Share Posted January 2, 2023 The pros must be on holiday enjoying themselves... so i'll chime in and say it may depend on the epoxy we are talking about. They should have info for top coating and the likes in the spec sheets. Usually give you windows to complete each step sort of thing. Whenever i've used it, it's been kept inside so I can't personally comment. It tends to be a pretty tough finish though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted January 2, 2023 Share Posted January 2, 2023 Id say aslong as its fully sealed and cured it should be ok, but would need to be keyed when anything else goes on top. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted January 14, 2023 Share Posted January 14, 2023 Hinges - door, bonnet, boot etc Whats the usual way to prep and paint these? Unsure about sandblasting filling up the pivots with garnet. Just soak in paint stripper? Then the paint rubs off when the hinge is installed, or get them plated/parkerised? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted January 14, 2023 Share Posted January 14, 2023 25 minutes ago, NickJ said: Hinges - door, bonnet, boot etc Whats the usual way to prep and paint these? Unsure about sandblasting filling up the pivots with garnet. Just soak in paint stripper? Then the paint rubs off when the hinge is installed, or get them plated/parkerised? We usually bead blast. But cabinet at work has glass not garnet Also if they're not sloppy af already the media cant get in Paint will just wear off on contact points. Needs lube etc anyways 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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