Indiana_Jones Posted January 17, 2023 Share Posted January 17, 2023 Hey there, have been taking a browse/search around the site, trying to find some advice on polishing 1k clearcoat. Have got some on the new paint I've done on the repairs on the Jag, but keen to understand better the next step of smoothing it out and blending it into the old clear coat (I have been advised on using this Mipa product). My understanding is that you give the new clearcoat a wet sand with a fine grade (1200) and then polish/buff it to achieve the finish, is that correct? or am I missing a step? Also any recommendations on a suitable polish product to use? I'm intending to use it on a borrowed 180mm buffer (I believe it has variable speed control, but need to confirm), also I'm assuming one should use one of the polishing foam pads rather than the wool buffing ones. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 Touching up rust repairs. Currently it's being protected by weld through zinc primer. I need to use some filler and then epoxy primer and some 1k paint. Do I do it like this, Zinc - epoxy - filler - epoxy - paint Or Zinc - filler - epoxy - paint Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 40 minutes ago, kws said: Touching up rust repairs. Currently it's being protected by weld through zinc primer. I need to use some filler and then epoxy primer and some 1k paint. Do I do it like this, Zinc - epoxy - filler - epoxy - paint Or Zinc - filler - epoxy - paint Cheers Clean repairs to bare steel Epoxy over bare steel Fill Prime Then color Or if your gonna do the while job in a day or two or I assume this is the marina so the rest of the car isnt exactly show car quality. Just fill over bare steel and prime over top. Auto filler is actually ment to be on bare steel The key is that it's all porous and soaks moisture up from the air if left Dont fill over anything from a rattle can. You'll have a bad time 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 34 minutes ago, Kerry-TGI said: Would cavity wax do it's job in the rain gutter part under the windscreen or will it just wash away? Not sure where you mean exactly. But cavity was isnt water soluble or it wouldnt work. Just let it dry properly according to manufacturer's instructions So it would probably do what you want to do 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted January 23, 2023 Share Posted January 23, 2023 (don't let it block the drain holes) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted January 24, 2023 Share Posted January 24, 2023 1 hour ago, JustHarry said: Clean repairs to bare steel Epoxy over bare steel Fill Prime Then color Or if your gonna do the while job in a day or two or I assume this is the marina so the rest of the car isnt exactly show car quality. Just fill over bare steel and prime over top. Auto filler is actually ment to be on bare steel The key is that it's all porous and soaks moisture up from the air if left Dont fill over anything from a rattle can. You'll have a bad time Damn, googling it, it seems I was lulled into a false sense of security and weld through primer isn't really a primer at all. Good advice, I'll strip it back before filler and epoxy priming. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted January 24, 2023 Share Posted January 24, 2023 1 hour ago, Kerry-TGI said: Sounds good be much easier than painting it. Might be called the firewall I don't know my lingo well Is it covering a repair? Or rust Cavity wax isnt a rust converter. Also anything is better than nothing. If you can spray some zinc paint rattle can into the cavity as much as possible. Then when that's dry cavity wax over top and you'll be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted January 24, 2023 Share Posted January 24, 2023 I hit some seams like that in my nissan with bonderite and then black zinc an out a year ago. It has sat in the weather since then and still looks like the day I painted it I did have access to wire brush the surrounding area of paint and seam sealer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted January 24, 2023 Share Posted January 24, 2023 6 hours ago, Kerry-TGI said: It's essentially a seam, with light rust creeping out from the seam. It's at that critical point of needing to do something before it needs a full rebuild like my last one. I know the wax isn't a converter, but is it not an inhibitor? Or would I be better off running a bead of sikaflex on both sides. Basically the rust is sandwiched between where those two skins are in the engine bay. So I'm hoping to suffocate it. Personally I would get a spray rust converter like brunox or dintroll rc900 Clean it best you can and scrap away loose paint and rust. Dont ger carried away trying to strip paint back. Just loose stuff Spray the seam and seal it up. Keep the spray small if you can so it's not a big messy area. I've got a small tube ,like the cavity wax cans have, pushed into a cap for doing exactly that with spray can rust converter Then chuck some cavity wax over for good measure. It's not a "fix" it's a bandaid that will hold back the rust for a wee while longer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunbeam Posted January 29, 2023 Share Posted January 29, 2023 A paint prep Q. Ihave had some suspension arms etc in a phosphoric acid bath for a couple of days. The steel is now fantastically clean. However, as soon as I rinse in water, no matter how quickly I dry the part (talking a matter of minutes) it starts turning orange in front of my face. Am I doing it wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted June 22, 2023 Share Posted June 22, 2023 2K Epoxy for everything. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted June 22, 2023 Share Posted June 22, 2023 @Kerry-TGI Go here, they will do blast + 2k epoxy for you https://www.blastingandcoating.co.nz/contact Where I got mine done, not too $$$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
63Ragtop Posted June 22, 2023 Share Posted June 22, 2023 On 29/01/2023 at 13:54, Sunbeam said: A paint prep Q. Ihave had some suspension arms etc in a phosphoric acid bath for a couple of days. The steel is now fantastically clean. However, as soon as I rinse in water, no matter how quickly I dry the part (talking a matter of minutes) it starts turning orange in front of my face. Am I doing it wrong? Need to neutralise the acid, I've had the same thing just using vinegar, need to wash it in baking soda or something. I would imagine there is something similar for phosphoric acid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nzstato Posted June 22, 2023 Share Posted June 22, 2023 1 minute ago, 63Ragtop said: Need to neutralise the acid, I've had the same thing just using vinegar, need to wash it in baking soda or something. I would imagine there is something similar for phosphoric acid? Do the opposite, leave the residue (iron phosphate ) on to prevent the oxidation and then rough sand the panel back just prior to paint. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted June 22, 2023 Share Posted June 22, 2023 When I had a big citric acid bath going I would wash with the hose then clean with a scotch brite pad and wax and grease. The metal comes out with a pickle on it from a acid wash and sanding/scrubbing it up bright white before paint is what you really want. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted July 6, 2023 Share Posted July 6, 2023 Has anybody had any joy with small touch up spray guns? I only have a primer gun and a top coat one. But I have to do some small spaces like door jams and some parts and my top coat iwata gun will just blast overspray everywhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted July 6, 2023 Share Posted July 6, 2023 I have one if these which came in handy when I did the rollcages in my Mazda and Honda, good for tight spots or small items / areas. I found the smaller tip didn't really suit my normal painting programme of fast an full bore, so I had to adapt a bit. Foolishly I tried it out on a large panel once, won't do that again, It was painfully slow and nowhere near as even as the normal sized gun.. Pretty sure this is the one.. https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/product/devilbiss-startingline-mini-detail-spray-gun-802405/automotive-paint-guns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted July 6, 2023 Share Posted July 6, 2023 2 hours ago, dmulally said: Has anybody had any joy with small touch up spray guns? I only have a primer gun and a top coat one. But I have to do some small spaces like door jams and some parts and my top coat iwata gun will just blast overspray everywhere. Is it an iwata w400? A normal size gun if fine for doing shuts . Narrow the fan up and lower the pressure and lower the product feed . There are knobs for doing that. If your unsure chuck a pic up and I'll point them out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmulally Posted July 6, 2023 Share Posted July 6, 2023 17 minutes ago, JustHarry said: Is it an iwata w400? A normal size gun if fine for doing shuts . Narrow the fan up and lower the pressure and lower the product feed . There are knobs for doing that. If your unsure chuck a pic up and I'll point them out Indeed it is the w400. I didnt think of lowering the nozzle/pressure. Normally when I do I get runs but I dont really care about that as much as it's all out of sight stuff. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted July 6, 2023 Share Posted July 6, 2023 5 minutes ago, dmulally said: Indeed it is the w400. I didnt think of lowering the nozzle/pressure. Normally when I do I get runs but I dont really care about that as much as it's all out of sight stuff. Thanks! Dont drop the pressure to much. You still want around 2 bar When you narown the fan width the pressure at the tip increases so you need to adjust for that . Winding the product screw in till it only let's a small amount of product through prevents accidental runs from to much product Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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