Kerry-TGI

This part is effectively done, seam sealed inside and out. I'll probably leave the small section I cut out, until the end. That way I still have access into the firewall to give it a clean out, and I might spray the whole inside with cavity wax when it's all said and done just to feel extra good about it. Next headache is that this panel was flanked by two higher strength pieces of steel which didn't come out very cleanly. They're crumple zones I'm guessing. They're gonna require some fucking around, but I feel like I'm actually starting to break the back of this thing.

The bonnet sits on rubber packers that overlap the fixing points on the guards and the wiper scuttle/cowl is basically a veneer that screws on over top of the foundations. I don't actually know what to call the piece under that because a scuttle seems to be defined and work differently on different vehicles. It's been a bit of a cunt to figure out and I know it's a little on the piss now (3-4mm between each side) but I think there is enough play in everything to get it sitting right again.

Little side project while paint dries, some wheels to go on the cab mounts so I can maneuver it around by myself and even take it out of the cave on nice days. Still a bit of a workout but will make life a lot easier.

Cheers mate about 5 minutes after I commented I realised I should just make the nozzle longer like that. Bit of a fuckin messy job but all those layers that intersect on the edge of the firewall are all gunked up inside and out and can be finished.

Anyone got any secrets for seam sealing tight spaces which are difficult to get the gun into?

Pieced this ledge back together bit by bit, trimmed it up and put a little curve on the edge Couple skims of bog to hide my sins Ended up tacking it along underneath instead of plug welding it. Cant see it making a huge difference

Sorry to sneak in here but could you elaborate on these rolok discs and what tool you use them with?

I tacked the top of the panel under the windscreen, then bolted the fenders and bonnet back on so I could see where the scuttle panel needed to sit for the bonnet to look right. When I got the bonnet sitting flush with the fenders and measuring square from the back of the cab, I welded some tabs in to hold the position. Then I ran out of welding wire which I cant get where I live so bit of a down buzz but still pretty happy with the result. Everything lines up still which is awesome.

Hey everyone, I'm running into a problem bolting my fenders back on. The bolts I took from them were all the same except 2 larger ones underneath. However, several points are unable to be screwed in now. One point directly opposite the other, will not take the same bolt. I've already stripped a couple and snapped one. Is this a common issue when threads are left open for a while/older? Do they need to be tapped again?

Firewall is done, no more leaks. Weld through primer on the edge for the plug welds. Gona bolt the fenders and doors back on tomorrow to help line the scuttle panel back up. Gonna take some measurements from an old wreck too. Shouldve measured some key points before I cut it out but that's a good lesson for the future. Fingers crossed the front end hasn't moved while it's had less support. Bit nervous about it.

What type of paint have you had success with?

What does everyone do after brunox? seems it doesn't play nice with a lot of paints

I realised I don't have to do everything the same as before. I think a lot of water used to sit around because the fall was inadequate. I started from the bottom so I had to undo some of my work but the water really moves now. Going to work my way down and do it even steeper on the other side to completely take out the flat spots. Then the water has nowhere to pool or sit against the seam where the scuttle panel is plug welded to the bulkhead.

Does anyone know how to change post flow shielding gas on the smootharc? Seems like 3-4 seconds which is wasting a lot of gas during spot welding