For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

[igor]

Back in the early '90s (pre cert days?) a guy I knew had racing harnesses in his T Bucket. Every wof he was questioned about them. Think he ended up carrying the relevant paperwork in the car all the time just in case. 

[cletus]

The way I read it, if Chevron is the manufacturer and that is the style of belts it had fitted originally, it meets note 18 (a) on the page @AllTorque linked 

So if you can get something from them proving thats what they had for belts originally, it should be sweet

I assume it has no cert plate?

[BlownCorona]

thats exactly what i was looking for and was semi certain existed. Cheers Clint!

hopefully i can get some form of confirmation that these belts are all it ever had, perhaps they will even simply accept it. 

Edit cheers @AllTorque too since you actually posted the answer and I missed it! 

[BlownCorona]

No cert plate either, or declaration papers, the way I understand it and the way the wof man did too is that's its not a modified vehicle. So would only have been complied by what ever means that was in the late 80s 

It does have a stamped serial number on a chevron branded plate and a land transport 7Axxxx... Vin number on another chevron branded plate. 

[kws]

Just need that proof that they were factory fitted and should be good to go, yes? Are there original sales brochures that would say it had a harness?

[BlownCorona]

It was produced as a commercial kit, but home built. 

Proving it was always a 4 point may be tricky, but not impossible. I'll swing past tomorrow morning and see what he thinks of the above posted rule, I'll also see if I can get ahold of some photos of my car back in the day. 

[Bling]

I have a query about modifying pressed steel lower control arms. They are OEM 2mm pressed steel. Problem I have is clearance off the brakes from the folded up edge of arm. In order to make this fit, is it allowable to have the fold trimmed off and reweld the arm? Thinking 5mm plate cut to fit over the ball joint sleeve, and have the plate tig welded to the sleeve and around all edges. The part removed does nothing except stop the ball joint being pulled out of the end. So I figured if there is a 5mmx5mm ring around the ball joint sleeve that should be strong enough to do that job. Would have a NDT report done. Thanks

 

 

 

 

[cletus]

I think if the plate was welded to the inside of the side parts, that would be fine

You would need to confirm with the certifier who is going to sign off on it that he (or she, lol) is happy with it, as it's not a recipe in the book 

[Bling]

Thanks for that, yeah it's not in any of the factsheets I could see, they only covered aftermarket arms. Will find out in a couple of weeks when certifier is back doing his thing. Just thought i'd test the waters in here as you may have come across similar things in the past. 

Thought it might be alright since it's not cast or anything fancy like that. Welding plan would be to weld all edges of the plate, including top side around the ball joint area. Would be solid as fuck IMO.

[kyteler]

I'm not sure if it's justified or accurate but my concern if you removed the wall/bend/lip and replaced it with thicker flat on the same plane as the top face that you would run into potential torsional rigidity issues which would transfer stresses on the edge of where you weld the reinforcement plate, I would think narrowing it down but retaining an "edge" (I guess?) would be a good option combined perhaps with an additional strengthening plate across the base of the arm, retaining the 2mm plate size throughout. 

Maybe? 

[Bling]

Whoosh, that is a bit technical for me to comprehend lol.

I'm not sure the section where the plate might be would flex all that much? The caster arm(?) bolts not far from that area so i'm guessing the main force on the end is up and down? Can't get official word for a couple of weeks, just a tad stressed. Trimming the arm is the method which affects the least other things. Could shorten the RCA, but then i'll likely end up with bump steer issues at a guess. Have looked at other steering arm options and can't see any OEM options that fit my struts. Aftermarket all look to be aimed purely are race / drift so don't seem all that appropriate. 

Just hoping that a solution can be worked out where they are happy the strength required for the arm to do it's job exists. Was talking to someone who cut and shut theirs years ago with a thread mixed in to allow adjustment. Hoping this is a more minor modification that can be solved.

[Ashkellybarr]

Proportion valve requirement on a old Ute or can I delete it?

 

cheers

[tortron]

Delete it

[Mof]

Load valve lower right in picture? 

Cut arm short, fix in position and adjust to suit. Lock it up when you're happy it's not locking up the rears

[tortron]

The old L200 ones don't do anything anyways, my clubsport doesn't have one at all

[Ashkellybarr]

I’m running a small alloy tray witch weighs nothing and at most will have a gearbox or engine on it. That the arms always been bent and never worked so I’ll just delete it if I can

[kpr]

May end up with too much rear bias  if you delete it.  just do some hard braking see if it locks the rears 

[M.H.]

Apologies for stuff link but what will the likely outcome of this be? Seems pretty harsh on the owner of the Ute

 

https://stuff.co.nz/business/118042553/better-off-dead-after-loose-bolt-causes-crash

 

[CaMpylobacter]

Pretty rough. In the heavy transport world the chain of responsibility would land heavily on that parts fitter guy. Haha F it was certed  after then it should’ve been picked up but by the look it wasn’t certed ?

[cletus]

Nah it wasn't certed. It had heavy duty leaf springs fitted 

I find it hard to figure out why the company that did the work would have that attitude, surely they would have insurance, and the bad publicity would cost more than fixing the vehicle.