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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

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Can you take it for a cert with no plate on it? That way they would just record the VIN number?

 

/I really don't know and can't contribute in this case but I am interested in the answer

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38 minutes ago, Bling said:

Youtube it, will be covered for sure.

 

I have a curly one. Car is going for cert at some point, I want a different plate on it that it currently has. Can't get new plates made or put on to car till it is licensed. Can't get licensed till WOF'd. Can't get WOF till get cert, don't want old plate on cert plate. Currently only have one PP as it was on a trailer.

Boom. 

Will this be a case of paying for a new cert plate the day after it's installed?

Will try my luck with Licensys, but it doesn't seem like the sort of system that has wiggle room.

You can request your plate is made without a rego number on the plate.

PS - are you going to get a PP for your car? I might know a guy who MIGHT be able to arrange your new PP on it. (I'm not promising but I can try)

 

edit - FWIW - a mismatching rego number is one of the only 2 things that is not required to match on the cert plate for a WoF.

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48 minutes ago, KKtrips said:

 

 

edit - FWIW - a mismatching rego number is one of the only 2 things that is not required to match on the cert plate for a WoF.

Temporary seat removal?

BTW, my plate is 4562KK - spooky!

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6 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

I thought it was the ride height?

/ling

Ride height  is plus or minus 15% IIRC

Had to do some careful looking to find the seat rule

/who'd be a WOF man eh?

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Hi there, 

I have got spindles, stubs, discs, and callipers off a 1992 L300 to go onto my 1983 L300, the problem is the upper ball joint hole is larger on the new suff (there is no ball joint that fits off the shelf) can I get an engineer to make some hard tapered adapters like these? I hope so because they are getting made next week.

https://www.doctordiff.com/a-body-upper-ball-joint-tapered-adapter.html

Have read that the upper ball joints don't have as much stress as lowers so should be sweet?

Thanks.

 

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12 minutes ago, MaxPower said:

Hi there, 

I have got spindles, stubs, discs, and callipers off a 1992 L300 to go onto my 1983 L300, the problem is the upper ball joint hole is larger on the new suff (there is no ball joint that fits off the shelf) can I get an engineer to make some hard tapered adapters like these? I hope so because they are getting made next week.

https://www.doctordiff.com/a-body-upper-ball-joint-tapered-adapter.html

Have read that the upper ball joints don't have as much stress as lowers so should be sweet?

Thanks.

 

I'm presuming you mean for cert? But regardless of if WOF or cert, unfortunately no you cannot.

The problem with them is if you pull the ball joint out of the stub and the tapered insert falls off, then you might not notice and do the joint up and it might pull up tight but there will be play (and a lot of it) once you start driving.

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It's illegal, but you could have the taper welded up, and reamed to the smaller size. 

"THOU SHALT NOT MAKE A WELD UPON ANY FORGING WHICH IS EMPLOYED IN SUSPENDING OR STEERING A MOTOR VEHICLE"

 

However, done tidily, it's impossible to prove it's been done. However depending on the metal used, it might go hard as fuck and need to be annealed before it can be reamed.

Since you're not a welder be trade @MaxPower please dont do that.  ;-P

 

And if you do please use a gasless MIG or damp welding electrodes. (With 5 pairs of sunglasses)

 

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Bart - NAUGHTY

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Welding cast is an absolute no-no so please ignore Bart cos that is super dumb advice.

If you are changing hubs and stubs, why not change suspension arms too and retain the correct ball-joints?

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cool yes for cert, no to dodgy welding, never looked to see if the other arms would fit just guessed they would be different, thanks for your guys advice.

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When certing with wheels, can you have a pair of wheels you want tested front and rear on the car or do you need a full set? Examples 15x7 (full set) 14x7 (pair) both same overall diameter and width. Certing on 15x7 and thinking about option of 14x7, but only have a pair of 14x7 rims currently.

 

Also in regards to threads protruding from brackets, does this look to be enough? Was told two threads visible for photos. I have 2.5-3mm of total bolt sticking through. Tapered bolt end, but full bracket thread is being used. Much further would impact rotor. Cheers

 

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2x sets of wheels cert requires road testing on both sets so you would need 2 full sets  

Thread sticky outness looks ok to me. The 2 threads rule is meant for nuts, not necessarily threaded holes in things 

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Sweet cheers for that, yeah from what I gather it included plates too, or at least was implied. It at least shows that thread is using all 10mm of the plate. Just waiting to find out on the above sticky outness before I can get car rolling again. Will stick with 15's in that case too.

 

 

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