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17 hours ago, ~Slideways~ said:

What are you thoughts on engine mounts like this? I've been told some have been failed but I found this LVVTA forum post saying there are ok.

http://lvvta.proboards.com/thread/521/solid-engine-mounts

 

 

16559_Circuit Sports_EMK-0134-HC_FS01-01@2x1446863274563d61aa77682.jpg

The engine mounts in my racecar were a similar style to this (albeit much lower profile). It always vibrated a lot and the bolts took a hammering. When I removed the engine it had a broken bolt on one side and had pulled the thread out of the other... So I had no bolts holding the engine down.

The engine basically tries to yank the bolts out as it twists with torque. 

I've now gone to an isolated rubber Rover V8 mount. Will report back one day when the car is going again... 

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11 hours ago, cletus said:

Those are one of my pet hates.

They are a cock up in my opinion. you have two solid parts -the engine mount bracket, and the crossmember- joined together with a solid thing - the bolt- with a compressible thing in the middle- the red part.

So you cant tighten the bolt properly, the red bit allows a small amount of movement so the bolt can move in the holes, it vibrates just as much as a solid mount anyway cause the bolt transfers vibration..... 

No OEM manufacturer makes a mount for anything using the same principle as that.

the ones with the hard plastic, I looked into the specs for some once, and the temp rating was an issue for use as an engine mount

the same thing with an alloy spacer or steel would be fine. 

Balls. Thanks for the info.

 Well I have some options at least.

 

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43 minutes ago, Truenotch said:

The engine mounts in my racecar were a similar style to this (albeit much lower profile). It always vibrated a lot and the bolts took a hammering. When I removed the engine it had a broken bolt on one side and had pulled the thread out of the other... So I had no bolts holding the engine down.

The engine basically tries to yank the bolts out as it twists with torque. 

I've now gone to an isolated rubber Rover V8 mount. Will report back one day when the car is going again... 

I wonder if these would fair any better?

https://xcessivemanufacturing.com/nissan/240sx/sr/engine/xm-universal-universal-hardware-uh-umm-s3.html

umm-s31.jpg.038ca6dd0225a13d0b77e30a34ad26b4.jpg

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1 hour ago, ~Slideways~ said:

Those are much better! This way the mount is suspended on the urethane which allows a bit of flex up and down (as opposed to your current ones that only allow flex downwards). 

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The standard was updated in 2016 and it now says it has to be fully welded. 

If it is done in a way that it is safe and you can prove it, then you could probably get an exemption from that requirement. 

I don't think the standard is quite right as it is written now, as it says that when you fit an adjustable sleeve on to an un shortened shock body it has to be fully welded top and bottom.

From memory the idea of welding the sleeve top and bottom was only necessary if someone shortened the shock body by cutting it, butt welding, and then fitting the sleeve over the join. 

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didn't make a lot of sense to me in a standard strut tube situation, as springs have to be captive, and the welded ring was good enough for factory.

my original perches were gently cut away with hacksaw, and adjustment used for (god forbid) gaining ground clearance, not lowering.

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On 8/4/2018 at 16:31, 66gt said:

I have another old Mk 1 GT Cortina with dead rego but still have the original ownership papers and body tags. The number plates are long gone. How hard would this to be to register?

Does the vin come up in carjam at all?

See the other thread for more info on registering, 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Shakotom said:

Car with full cage 

has logbook for cage but no cert for cage

 

provided rest of car is fine will it pass a wof or nah? It needs cert for full cage?

also no mention on cert plate of MSNZ card required etc

@AllTorque

You can't get a cert for a full cage. A full cage requires a Motorsport authority card which means the owner needs an MSNZ licence, the cage needs to be homologated and the car needs to do a minimum of two events per year. 

It needs to be checked over by a Motorsport scrutineer with an A on their licence (A means they're allowed to do authority cards). 

I think you can also do an authority card through the drag racing associations if the car is built for straight line racing.

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fun fact

not all vehicles need an authority card to run a full cage-

 

rules-

A roll-cage may be positioned within the B-Zone of a low volume vehicle occupant cell, provided that 
 (a) the vehicle is not a modified production Class MA, with unitary body construction, which has a permanent roof structure; and

(b) the requirements of 2.4(9) are met.
2.4(9) A low volume vehicle fitted with a roll-bar or a roll-cage, must have:
 (a) a head restraint fitted to provide protection for each occupant where a roll-bar or roll-cage section exists immediately behind a seat, positioned between the occupant seating position and the roll-bar or roll-cage section; and
 (b) no unprotected hard or sharp bracketry including a roll-bar or roll-cage mount, seatbelt mount, or fastener positioned where it would be likely to be contacted by an occupant in the event of an impact or roll-over; and
 (c) all sections of a roll-bar or a roll-cage positioned adjacent to any A-Zone must be covered in a high density energy absorbing material which:
 (i) meets SFI specification 45.1 or another equivalent motor-sporting specification; and
 (ii) is not less than 15 mm in thickness in the area facing the occupant cell.

 

https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Interior_Impact.pdf

 

 

 

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A fun question. On my SD1 I have replaced all the suspension with new OEM parts (as it was lowered), so new shocks and springs. The rear spring setup is a bit weird, in that they are not "captive" at full droop, and are designed to drop down in their turret in the body. They dont drop below the turret so cant become mis-located, and the bottom of the springs have a retainer from factory to stop them coming loose. I presume because this is factory setup it should be OK, but how would I go to prove this was normal if i needed to? Not like i can call the Rover dealer to get them to confirm.

There is no way to retain the spring at the top, and the shocks would have to be significantly shortened to keep the springs from dropping down as they do. The only thing that limits the droop of the axle are the shocks. The car would have to be significantly airbourne on the road for the axle to droop that far normally.

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15 hours ago, peteretep said:

What’s the story with fitting spacers between strut tops and car body to lift a car? Can I fit some 2” blocks to jack a car up and not need a cert?

Strut spacers need a cert.

 

Unless it's listed here, as not needing a cert, it needs a cert.  See linky link, tables and images tab

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/steering-and-suspension/steering-and-suspension-systems

 

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fun fact

not all vehicles need an authority card to run a full cage-

 

rules-

A roll-cage may be positioned within the B-Zone of a low volume vehicle occupant cell, provided that 
 (a) the vehicle is not a modified production Class MA, with unitary body construction, which has a permanent roof structure;

does that exactly describe an mx-5 ? 

Also "head restraint " is that meaning seats with headrests or are we talking Hanz device restraint system ? 

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