V8Pete Posted May 17, 2018 Share Posted May 17, 2018 The car thing went for like 3x as much $$ as I was expecting so solved that problem. Haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted May 17, 2018 Share Posted May 17, 2018 1 hour ago, igor said: I totally don't get this, from the second link. Makes no sense at all. New Zealand has strict controls on the importation of tobacco for sale. There is an absolute prohibition in the Smoke-Free Environments Act 1990 on the importation for sale of tobacco, which is suitable for chewing, or any other oral use other than smoking. Approval cannot be given to import chewing tobacco for sale. Good thing you're talking about it in the spam thread then isn't it? Get the fuck out. Another Fezza Pete? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted May 17, 2018 Share Posted May 17, 2018 Bet it was a shitron mx or some sort of crap. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted May 20, 2018 Share Posted May 20, 2018 Turbocoon ute is going in for cert later this week, he didn't mention anything about a requirement for a driveshaft loop at the booking, the reasoning for the cert is due to maybe having 20% more than factory output due to larger intercooler and whatnot. (Its almost certainly over the 20% increase from stock) Manual suggests that 50% increase from factory output is threshold for driveshaft loop. So 270 flywheel kw should give me a threshold up to just on 400 flywheel kw. Am I reading this paperwork correctly? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 21, 2018 Share Posted May 21, 2018 Correct, if the original rating was 270. 270+ 135= 405 at the flywheel before it needs a loop. If you have a dyno sheet, take that with you when you go for cert check. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted May 21, 2018 Share Posted May 21, 2018 9 hours ago, mjrstar said: Turbocoon ute is going in for cert later this week, he didn't mention anything about a requirement for a driveshaft loop at the booking, the reasoning for the cert is due to maybe having 20% more than factory output due to larger intercooler and whatnot. (Its almost certainly over the 20% increase from stock) Manual suggests that 50% increase from factory output is threshold for driveshaft loop. So 270 flywheel kw should give me a threshold up to just on 400 flywheel kw. Am I reading this paperwork correctly? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willdat? Posted May 22, 2018 Share Posted May 22, 2018 Getting my ducks in a row for cert for the Beagle. Are these style of strut spacers certable? https://www.ebay.com/itm/HRG-Engineering-Honda-Civic-88-00-CRV-97-01-2-lift-blocks-kit-RD1/263626959047?fits=Model%3ACivic&hash=item3d616428c7:g:feMAAOSwtida3L2r Will only be needed in the front end if that makes any difference? Also, is there anything tricky about getting cert for removing ABS beyond changing master cylinder and brake lines to non-ABS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 22, 2018 Share Posted May 22, 2018 probably ok, only thing to look out for is the suspension can handle that much more droop travel- ie with those spacers in, make sure the cvs don't fall out or ball joints bind or the brake hoses get like guitar strings etc abs is easy as you describe, that's pretty much it, take the light out of the dash and get rid of the pump as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted May 22, 2018 Share Posted May 22, 2018 27 minutes ago, Willdat? said: Also, is there anything tricky about getting cert for removing ABS beyond changing master cylinder and brake lines to non-ABS? Fyi, I unplugged the abs pump in my pajero when off road, just puts on the light and stops abssing. Plug it back in when hitting the tarmac. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willdat? Posted May 22, 2018 Share Posted May 22, 2018 12 minutes ago, Mof said: Fyi, I unplugged the abs pump in my pajero when off road, just puts on the light and stops abssing. Plug it back in when hitting the tarmac. I'd do the same - except my ABS pump squeals like a bastard if it's not activated more than once a week, I don't have an aggressive enough driving style for this. So it spends its life (except for the drive to get a WOF) unplugged. Which also means I'm probably driving around uninsured, looking forward to getting it all sorted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted May 22, 2018 Share Posted May 22, 2018 Oh, I thought you would just unplug for events. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny.race Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 So whats the go on an LVV having to have a boot floor? I am wanting to install a (proper) plastic fuel cell into a LVV and have been reading my Hobby Car Book. I understand the fixing/attachment, and clearance ... line routing requirements but can't see anywhere where it says I have to have a boot floor or something under it. I looked in the body section of the book also and didn't see anything there either. Just the necessity to ensure the passenger compartment was sealed from the tank etc. So do you have to have a boot floor in ya hotrod? Fuck that sounds bogan aye ... but do you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carsnz123 Posted May 24, 2018 Share Posted May 24, 2018 Sooooo How much bodywork is required for a car to go on the road? Would be a good lerl to roll round in this as is. Maybe a little drafty. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted May 24, 2018 Share Posted May 24, 2018 9 hours ago, johnny.race said: So whats the go on an LVV having to have a boot floor? I am wanting to install a (proper) plastic fuel cell into a LVV and have been reading my Hobby Car Book. I understand the fixing/attachment, and clearance ... line routing requirements but can't see anywhere where it says I have to have a boot floor or something under it. I looked in the body section of the book also and didn't see anything there either. Just the necessity to ensure the passenger compartment was sealed from the tank etc. So do you have to have a boot floor in ya hotrod? Fuck that sounds bogan aye ... but do you? Surely it would need some sort of metal shield under the plastic tank to protect it from the road? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny.race Posted May 24, 2018 Share Posted May 24, 2018 5 minutes ago, kws said: Surely it would need some sort of metal shield under the plastic tank to protect it from the road? The only reference i could find re having shield was using one if a certain clearance distance could not be met. Even though I would meet the distance requirement, I was going to utilize a shield/skid plate arrangement under the cell in any case. I thought this was just good practice and it added some confidence that my ching ching fuel cell was protected from road debris. No, what i am asking about is the requirement to have the boot as a sealed compartment. I wonder if you have to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 24, 2018 Share Posted May 24, 2018 9 hours ago, johnny.race said: So whats the go on an LVV having to have a boot floor? I am wanting to install a (proper) plastic fuel cell into a LVV and have been reading my Hobby Car Book. I understand the fixing/attachment, and clearance ... line routing requirements but can't see anywhere where it says I have to have a boot floor or something under it. I looked in the body section of the book also and didn't see anything there either. Just the necessity to ensure the passenger compartment was sealed from the tank etc. So do you have to have a boot floor in ya hotrod? Fuck that sounds bogan aye ... but do you? No, I cant think of any reason you would have to have a boot floor, as long as the fuel tank is protected like you mention, and the passenger compartment is sealed so fumes/exhaust etc cant get in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted May 24, 2018 Share Posted May 24, 2018 40 minutes ago, Carsnz123 said: Sooooo How much bodywork is required for a car to go on the road? Would be a good lerl to roll round in this as is. Maybe a little drafty. Very little. Have certed a couple of these. They are a lot of fun to drive but pretty breezy and you get bugs and rocks in your face 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted May 24, 2018 Share Posted May 24, 2018 good god that is ugly. how the fuck did they manage to "copy" the atom and yet make such a fucking hideous crap wagon? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 Morrie fuel tank is in the boot, and sits very low with no guards. This doesn't help you really/ling post. But even jumping it over speed bumps it never scrapes Factory drop tank brah, race dna 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted May 25, 2018 Share Posted May 25, 2018 My Vitesse has a factory fitted skid plate under the steel tank that hangs under the car, you know, because race car. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.