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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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We've replaced a few modern headlamps at work, the bulb gets hot enough to soften the housing and it deforms, screwing up the beam. A lot of the time too people don't fit the bulb correctly coz there's barely enough space to fit your hand and ya can't see anything.

Shitty headlamps are the most common wof failure we deal with. It's amazing how oblivious the drivers are to it too.

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I'm not sure if I'm seeing what you're saying in the VIRM?

No mention of anything LED specific, my interpretation of whats on there currently is that as long as it meets the performance requirements LED bulbs are OK?

Quote

 too bright, eg due to the fitment of an HID conversion kit (Note 8) or other incorrect light source.

^ Could be a fail reason if its deemed too bright by whomevers interpretation of the rules 

http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/lighting/headlamps


I'm curious about whether there will be any rules coming up to say anything about the LED sealed beam replacements

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New rules come in June 1st. Can’t have LED or HID in a headlamp that wasn’t designed for it.

If you replace the whole headlight with one designed for LED (like a 7 inch round job) it’s OK, as long as the beam pattern is all good. 

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On ‎5‎/‎2‎/‎2018 at 14:02, linearentropy said:

So after the drama with my previous MX5 around having a roll bar & stock seating at cert time, I have a WOF question relating my new mx5 for those of you with weld in halfcages in your cars.

Has anyone been through certification, then had a halfcage welded in had any issues at WOF time?   I feel like it'll be fine, but I tend to have shite luck with these things.     Follow up question would be, if down the line I get an authority card for the vehicle would that be enough to satisfy somewhere like VTNZ?

if the halfcage meets the wof requirements, you could argue that it is below cert threshold and doesn't need cert,

 

however that doesn't work with wheels, for example, if you had a car certed for 15x7 and you put 16x7 on, it in theory should fail wof as it doesn't match what the plate says

even if on their own, 15x7 or 16x7 would not need certing

 

so it will depend on the inspector

 

 

best to get all the mods certed at once if you can.

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1 hour ago, AllTorque said:

New rules come in June 1st. Can’t have LED or HID in a headlamp that wasn’t designed for it.

If you replace the whole headlight with one designed for LED (like a 7 inch round job) it’s OK, as long as the beam pattern is all good. 

should fail on aesthetics though, yuck.

781063793.jpg

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Not that I can think of, as long as the diff/chain setup is supported and lubricated appropriately for the sort of diff it is . There is no actual requirement for having a reverse gear either, although that would be a pain in the bum

 

Firewall mods generally ok as long as you are only cutting one layer and reinstating any lost strength

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1 hour ago, cletus said:

Not that I can think of, as long as the diff/chain setup is supported and lubricated appropriately for the sort of diff it is . There is no actual requirement for having a reverse gear either, although that would be a pain in the bum

 

Firewall mods generally ok as long as you are only cutting one layer and reinstating any lost strength

Cool thanks muchly.

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i have the opportunity to buy a good 1983 jeep j20 chassis (reg on hold rhd nz new) what would be the go in (certing) putting that chassis under my 56 international ambo? would i have to update the seat belts? , it has lap belts. cheers

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it would be do able, but it will become a 2018, scratch built vehicle, and have to meet all the requirements of a new build, so lap and diag belts, burst proof door catches, 2 speed wipers and washers, mirrors, etc etc

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17 hours ago, cletus said:

it would be do able, but it will become a 2018, scratch built vehicle, and have to meet all the requirements of a new build, so lap and diag belts, burst proof door catches, 2 speed wipers and washers, mirrors, etc etc

bummer, what about if i was to box and brace the shitty standard 56 inter 'u' frame and put the diffs and motor gearbox transfer case from the jeep in? could i then keep the awful lap belts , suicide steering column and standard door locks? would be better diffs brakes motor (6.2 chev diesel) (debatable) ..

cheers max

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12 hours ago, Nominal said:

Are those common bear claw latches (e.g. sold at Magoos) OK for this?

yeah they are ok as far as I know

 

there might be one that's not ok but I cant find the info on it right now

 

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3 hours ago, MaxPower said:

bummer, what about if i was to box and brace the shitty standard 56 inter 'u' frame and put the diffs and motor gearbox transfer case from the jeep in? could i then keep the awful lap belts , suicide steering column and standard door locks? would be better diffs brakes motor (6.2 chev diesel) (debatable) ..

cheers max

yes then it would be classed as 'modified production' and can stay what it is

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9 minutes ago, Snorkpipe said:

@cletus, do you have any contacts for LVV cert on a motorcycle? I'm looking at doing an engine swap which would increase CC rating from 750 to 1200

alex gee is the only one in Auckland.

I have one of the categories for bikes but I don't do them

 

 

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Looking at getting my wagon legit (i.e certed) and just checking Im on the right path. So nissan gloria, factory rd28 diesel has been replaced with a rd28t from a completely different vehicle (patrol). All bolt in using gloria parts as same engine essentially. Not a significant power increase (where significant is more than 50% as per lvvta fact sheet). Lowering springs up front, blocks in the back.

Am I right in thinking i need drive shaft loops (see the forth bullet point on the lvvta fact sheet on drive shaft loops https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_07-2016_Drive-shaft_Safety-loop_Requirements.pdf ), and pray that the factory brakes are up to scratch, but otherwise should be all good? 

Cheers!

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