SHGWAG Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 Not interested in a re cert, so: Autolign estimated around $80 + GST to replace each bush. I want to do the whole lot so I don't have to touch them again any time soon. Will be hitting up Mazda when they open on Monday, but from e-net research they're fairly expensive. Thanks for the prompt response! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ae85 fiend Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 Hey, I've had a quick search and havn't found anything. This will be the first time i'm going through the cert process. Its my daily so going to cert then eventually recert just so I can continue to daily it. Plan is to chuck coilovers in it and slam it. I was wondering if you pay for the cert and then they run the WoF process? Do you have to get the WoF through the cert guy? ( as i've still got 4 months of WoF left ) so if I went and paid for the cert process, this would pretty much make my current and valid warrant obsolete? Are the testing that the cert guys do real strict? Like VTNZ strict? Or is it much like the normal WoF guy? I havn't really found much? I assume when they do the testing, they go over the entire car? Not just the coilovers or whatever you wanted to get certified? Just say if my car fails on rust in guards or something like that, would I have to pay for the entire cert ($600) process again if I can't fix in it the 28days? Sorry if this has been answered. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sambo Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 Hey Cletus, My ae85 4age conversion failed cert today on the fuel and brake lines being run through the trans tunnel. Alex Gee reckoned that if the driveshaft went it'd take the lines with it. I understand where he's coming from, but these are 100% factory fuel lines. I've never heard of anyone being pulled up on this on any of the umpty million ae85 4age conversions. What are my options if I disagree with a certifier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 heres the relevant official words 2.3 (19) in here http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Braking_Systems.pdf and 10.8.2 in here http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/HCTM_SAMPLE_Chapter-10_Fuel%20Systems.pdf is it just a stock 4age? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 Hey, I've had a quick search and havn't found anything. This will be the first time i'm going through the cert process. Its my daily so going to cert then eventually recert just so I can continue to daily it. Plan is to chuck coilovers in it and slam it. I was wondering if you pay for the cert and then they run the WoF process? in short, we have to check all wof things as part of the cert, but we dont issue a new wof Do you have to get the WoF through the cert guy? ( as i've still got 4 months of WoF left ) so if I went and paid for the cert process, this would pretty much make my current and valid warrant obsolete? no it doesnt void your wof Are the testing that the cert guys do real strict? Like VTNZ strict? Or is it much like the normal WoF guy? not sure how to answer this. vtnz/vinz/aa/'normal wof guys' all have to work to the same book. if your car is safe and it meets the requirements then its not hard to get a cert I havn't really found much? I assume when they do the testing, they go over the entire car? Not just the coilovers or whatever you wanted to get certified? yep, we check all modifications, and wof stuff as well Just say if my car fails on rust in guards or something like that, would I have to pay for the entire cert ($600) process again if I can't fix in it the 28days? you get 2 months to get the repairs done, then you have to pay again. if you know something is wrong with the car and it will need fixing to pass cert, fix it first! Sorry if this has been answered. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sambo Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 Yeah, standard 4age. I see that it does specifically say that the lines should be run away from driveshafts, however I should be covered by the ds hoops. Also, a bit of consistancy would be nice. I've never even heard of anyone having to re route lines for a cert. I don't want to sound petulant, but it doesn't seem quite right that every other conversion is fine and mine isn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwlee Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 Hi Cletus, I think I'm going to run into the same issue as Sambo with 10.8.2 © with my mits gto with the oem location of the fuel/brake lines (see below) Since the photo was taken I've replaced both brake and fuel hard lines and there's no obvious alternative route that offers natural protection like a frame rail, so what type and level of protection is required? Thanks, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vivaspeed Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 I've been thinking about getting my 4AGE Viva up to spec and getting a cert on it. Would be fun on the road / better than my pushrod Viva at least! I have concerns about getting various mods through the cert process, namely most of the welding on it. It was never built with getting a cert in mind, but I'd like to think it's not too bad (fabrication cock-up thread makes me feel better...) When reading the LVVTA standards, this fills me with fear: Welding of other drive-train components 2.6(2) Welding of any engine or gearbox mounts or cross-members, or in relation to any differential housing modifications on a low volume vehicle, may only be carried out by a person who: (a) either: (i) holds a relevant current qualification or trade certification for the type of welding being undertaken; or (ii) has demonstrated to a low volume vehicle certifier, a satisfactory level of competence in the method of welding being undertaken; and ( documentation which verifies 2.6(2)(a)(i) or (ii) is supplied by the person who undertakes the welding. The bits I've got have come from a variety of sources. Engine mounts I've done/some I got of another 4A* Viva. Gearbox x-member comes out of that Viva that had been certed with a 4AGZE ages ago, Diff (Escort) I bought with mounts for a Viva on it - origin unknown. I'm not a trade certified welding person, and some of the bits come from source unknown. How would these be treated for cert purposes? x-ray/dye testing/some other form of NDT? (sorry it's probably been described over, and over again in here) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 i wouldnt say the lines need to be shifted, as it hasnt had a huge increase in power, the fuel lines are in the oe position, and you have fitted loops anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 The bits I've got have come from a variety of sources. Engine mounts I've done/some I got of another 4A* Viva. Gearbox x-member comes out of that Viva that had been certed with a 4AGZE ages ago, Diff (Escort) I bought with mounts for a Viva on it - origin unknown. I'm not a trade certified welding person, and some of the bits come from source unknown. How would these be treated for cert purposes? x-ray/dye testing/some other form of NDT? (sorry it's probably been described over, and over again in here) i wouldnt stress about it, non critical things like engine mounts are fine with a visual inspection. so if the welding and design is good, you will be ok. no NDT needed 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vivaspeed Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 What about the suspension arm pickup points welded onto the diff? Visual okay on that too? Oh, and the top rear suspension arms have one end chopped off, a threaded plate and rose joint added to the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 yep, as long as the mounts are not welded on to the cast center section, if thats what vivas have. arms will probably be ok if the joints are good quality, arms are strong enough, etc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OSM Garage Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 If a car has been pink stickered and then gets deregistered, is the "pink sticker" status an issue when it comes to re-registering? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranter Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 Shouldn't be as you need to use a testing station to get it back on the road anyway. I have a car here with solid engine mounts, do I need to also solid mount the transmission? (or rubber mount engine) for a mod cert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 Dunno about cert but some transes need flexible rear mount to avoid cracking the tailhousing. Depends on trans and diff driveshaftsetup design etc etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfoot Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 Probably a stupid question but, am I allowed to shave the ridges off the top of my new brake calipers (vr4 legnum) to get clearance for my steel rims? My other option is to get new wheels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 Shouldn't be as you need to use a testing station to get it back on the road anyway. I have a car here with solid engine mounts, do I need to also solid mount the transmission? (or rubber mount engine) for a mod cert. This has been discussed, I seem to recal you have to run the same type on mount son both engine and gbox. There is a page out of the rules which talks about it. Will try find Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 found this Posted by cletus on 30 October 2013 - 12:35 PM in Tech Talk nah that has been changed, you can run solid engine mounts with a rubber gbox mount now, it has been changed in the hobby car manual but not in that ^ standard a urethane mount would still be defined as a flexible mount 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 Pretty very sure you can't alter calipers at all, due to strength / cracking issues and the likes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranter Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 Thanks Beaver, thought I'd read that somewhere but cert guy didn't sound keen. Will talk to him again. Dunno about cert but some transes need flexible rear mount to avoid cracking the tailhousing. Depends on trans and diff driveshaftsetup design etc etc That'll be why it was done that way then I guess, it is a big block Charger that has been abit of a weekend drag racer. I don't know a lot about this American stuff so comments like that save me fucking things up in the future, cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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