For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

[Adoom]

1 hour ago, Muncie said:

 ive chopped my bumper support and that was silly.

 

 

Is the bar trying to occupy the same space as the intercooler? Tetris harder....

Or was it just blocking airflow? I'd just let it block that top section of the intercooler, it will probably still do some cooling in that section.

[Muncie]

55 minutes ago, Adoom said:

Is the bar trying to occupy the same space as the intercooler? Tetris harder....

Or was it just blocking airflow? I'd just let it block that top section of the intercooler, it will probably still do some cooling in that section.

It blocks the top 120mm of cooler and is a big square tube... quite annoying 

[RXFORD]

Is an Gtr style intercooler an option? Shorter but quite wide. Instead of having the outlets of the end of the tanks, have them exit back toward engine.

Or just run a smaller one so you don't have to change piping but have a water/meth setup as backup?

 

[Muncie]

35 minutes ago, RXFORD said:

Is an Gtr style intercooler an option? Shorter but quite wide. Instead of having the outlets of the end of the tanks, have them exit back toward engine.

Or just run a smaller one so you don't have to change piping but have a water/meth setup as backup?

 

I might just go small less problems, this cooler came as part of the Tony's Turbo Garage kit i bought and chopped up.

Can save this setup for non road events.

[Jeffs_Emporium]

Wanting to IRS convert a low spec (solid rear) 80s toyota mark ii/chaser/cresta. They have the same floor pan and I have taken the braces between chassis rails and outer sills for the subframe pickup points from an IRS parts car. Is this a straight forward swap with regards to cert if using factory parts? 

57071/2 are the braces i kept still attached to section of chassis rail and outer sill for correct placement 

 

while im here do i convert rear to take an s13 rear coilover (beef up trailing arm pickup and put strut towers in rear) 

 

 

[cletus]

i cant see a problem with that if its all factory parts, and the work is done well, welding is good, sealed and painted etc

[Metalhead96]

Dunno if its come up before but i read on the lvv fb page that someone said that guard rolling is no longer legal in regards to wof? Reason being that it "structually affects the vehicle body" and thus is now a cert issue? 

[ul9601]

semi-related, how much of the guard has to cover over the tyre/wheel for it to be legal. most guards are widest at the top and tapers in down at sill level?

[dmulally]

1 hour ago, Metalhead96 said:

Dunno if its come up before but i read on the lvv fb page that someone said that guard rolling is no longer legal in regards to wof? Reason being that it "structually affects the vehicle body" and thus is now a cert issue? 

Mate doing his Commer was advised by the cert man to get his rear guards rolled a couple weeks ago. 

[Bling]

2 hours ago, ul9601 said:

semi-related, how much of the guard has to cover over the tyre/wheel for it to be legal. most guards are widest at the top and tapers in down at sill level?

Measured from top of arch as far as I know. Won't be many arches that don't curve inward. This part of the PDF covers bolt on flares, but if if you just have unmodified body, then measure the same way and should be good. I'm sure Clint will confirm yeah / nah.

https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_05-2020_Tyre_Track_Protrusion.pdf

this one shows factory body better vs tyre tread, only shows front/back profile with top of arch used as reference

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/tyres,-wheels-and-hubs/tyres-and-wheels#tab2
 

3 hours ago, Metalhead96 said:

Dunno if its come up before but i read on the lvv fb page that someone said that guard rolling is no longer legal in regards to wof? Reason being that it "structually affects the vehicle body" and thus is now a cert issue? 

Unless it was posted by someone you know isn't an idiot... then take with salt. Front guards for example tend to just bolt on, so I can't see how they would link that to being structural.

That said, people will probably ruin guard rolling too, by taking the piss and they will have to bring in rules.

 

Had to flare mine to get enough clearance through full suspension travel for my cert. Didn't even come up as a mention when I explained how I got the clearance. Double skin in rear of mine so fold it over doesn't really change much. Front couldn't do much as bolt on single skin so weak as fuck arch.

 

[cletus]

Modification threshold specifies guard rolling as not needing cert. 

 

That fb lvv unofficial questions page is full of misinformation and people who will do anything but read what the rules are

 

 

[440bbm]

On 30/03/2024 at 16:02, Muncie said:

I might just go small less problems, this cooler came as part of the Tony's Turbo Garage kit i bought and chopped up.

Can save this setup for non road events.

or just run it on e85 and not worry so much

[ul9601]

8 hours ago, Bling said:

Measured from top of arch as far as I know. Won't be many arches that don't curve inward. This part of the PDF covers bolt on flares, but if if you just have unmodified body, then measure the same way and should be good. I'm sure Clint will confirm yeah / nah.

https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_05-2020_Tyre_Track_Protrusion.pdf

this one shows factory body better vs tyre tread, only shows front/back profile with top of arch used as reference

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/tyres,-wheels-and-hubs/tyres-and-wheels#tab2
 

Unless it was posted by someone you know isn't an idiot... then take with salt. Front guards for example tend to just bolt on, so I can't see how they would link that to being structural.

That said, people will probably ruin guard rolling too, by taking the piss and they will have to bring in rules.

 

Had to flare mine to get enough clearance through full suspension travel for my cert. Didn't even come up as a mention when I explained how I got the clearance. Double skin in rear of mine so fold it over doesn't really change much. Front couldn't do much as bolt on single skin so weak as fuck arch.

 

that second link from NZTA talks about tyre load and speed ratings suitable for the vehicle but do tyres on the same axle have to have matching ratings? it doesn't seem to mention it, so just to be sure. i mean, i'm guessing most tyres for typical passenger cars would have the ratings well above the required load and speed.

[AllTorque]

8 hours ago, ul9601 said:

do tyres on the same axle have to have matching ratings?

Load rating must be within 2 numbers. Speed rating doesn’t matter because they are all more the 100kph

[kp60nick]

Question regarding plating chassis rails for welded in tube crossmembers. I made a cardboard template of what I wanted the plate to look like but once I made it and bent in 90⁰ it lost length and no longer spans the whole height of the rail. Is this a problem should I remake plate? Picture for better explanation. 

[Adoom]

Do I recall something about proximity of things like fuel line, battery cable and brake line to the propshaft when routing under the car?
Or does it not matter where I run them as long as it's secure, not going to hit the ground and can't touch things that move or spin?

[shizzl]

19 minutes ago, Adoom said:

Do I recall something about proximity of things like fuel line, battery cable and brake line to the propshaft when routing under the car?
Or does it not matter where I run them as long as it's secure, not going to hit the ground and can't touch things that move or spin?

I had to fit a driveshaft hoop to the diff end on mine as the fuel line could’ve been taken out by a damaged driveshaft if the rear uj let go.

my fuel line had to run along the side of the tunnel

 

[cletus]

22 hours ago, kp60nick said:

Question regarding plating chassis rails for welded in tube crossmembers. I made a cardboard template of what I wanted the plate to look like but once I made it and bent in 90⁰ it lost length and no longer spans the whole height of the rail. Is this a problem should I remake plate? Picture for better explanation. 

Probably fine, by the time there's a weld there it will be pretty much at the bottom 

[cletus]

2 hours ago, Adoom said:

Do I recall something about proximity of things like fuel line, battery cable and brake line to the propshaft when routing under the car?
Or does it not matter where I run them as long as it's secure, not going to hit the ground and can't touch things that move or spin?

Yes. 

Fuel and brake lines. 

I usually recommend running them away from the driveshaft where possible, as a rear loop on a solid axle car is (a) hard (b) looks stupid (c) not particularly effective

Not quite as bad on something with IRS 

[Adoom]

51 minutes ago, cletus said:

Yes. 

Fuel and brake lines. 

I usually recommend running them away from the driveshaft where possible, as a rear loop on a solid axle car is (a) hard (b) looks stupid (c) not particularly effective

Not quite as bad on something with IRS 

Cool, I'll run them down the side. The driveshaft hoop will be something like the red scribble. The sides of the tunnel and front seat area has two 'floors' with a cavity for some reason so I was planning on bringing the hoop mounts forward to the chassis box section.